Nope, the truck basically sits around unless I trailer it to the dunes (and eventually trails once it can handle that sort of abuse)...
I'll look into the set b454rat has for sale but like I said earlier I don't have any extra $$$ right now...
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
So what am I looking at here? (youtube clips uploaded)
- Thread starter Avery4jc
- Start date
Nope, the truck basically sits around unless I trailer it to the dunes (and eventually trails once it can handle that sort of abuse)...
I'll look into the set b454rat has for sale but like I said earlier I don't have any extra $$$ right now...
well if i just sits around then wait and save the money up
I understand what you're saying but that's why I said in one of the first few posts that I might just get the cheap ones (I could do the whole set for like $40-50) and at least it'll be back together and I could drive it.
It'll take a while to save up for a D60 and I don't want to let it sit that long.
Jason4x4
1/2 ton status
I would get the tool, You need to tighten the bottom ball joint first, then use the tool to set the pre load on the upper, for what an alignment would cost, you can buy the tool and set the toe with a tape measure.
Are all 4 bad? If you're really cheap you could do just 2 of the 4, but I don't reccommend it. It's a shame to do all that labor when cheap ball joints are like $15. You might also find that the adjuster sleeve comes with the upper joint. Also, no need to drop big cash on tools - just get the ball joint press and pickle fork on the loan-a-tool program so that they are free. You can also make an adjuster tool. Just buy the right size socket and then cut notches in it to mate with the adjuster.
Sometimes you don't even have to adjust the preload because it's really close when you swap the ball joints. However, if your upper joints were really bad they may have chewed up the adjusters.
Sometimes you don't even have to adjust the preload because it's really close when you swap the ball joints. However, if your upper joints were really bad they may have chewed up the adjusters.
It's not that I'm cheap, I just don't have any extra cash right now (I just bought tires last weekend)...
I think I'll get 4 generic ones and the tool when I have the money. It'll get me through the next 6 month to a year while I save/hunt for a D60...
Plus with the price of gas and my work schedule being cut down by school I won't be romping on it every weekend. Honestly if I get to the dunes once every two months or so I'd be happy.
original balzer
1/2 ton status
I forgot about "napa gold" alot of times their gold brand is a much bigger brand name only renamed. Best bet is to go to napa and ask to look at both moog and the napa gold. Im willing to guess they are simular quality and a bit cheaper. Also napa has been realy good for me on loaner tools.
Just remember when you go to do the job you might as well check out the inner u-joints, seals, while your in there.
Just remember when you go to do the job you might as well check out the inner u-joints, seals, while your in there.
I'll go check them out when I'm ready to do it.
I just replaced all the seals/bearings/u-joints so they're good to go.
just remember this one thing...when you get a 60 no matter what you have in your axles your never gonna get that out of them..i dont know about over there but here 3/4 ton stuff is outdated and cant seem to get rid of it...i understand if your planing on keeping theese axles but if you go sinking another 100 to 200 bucks in them you prolly arent gonna be making a whole lot more than that when you sell them
Yeah napa premium is where its at, the moogs where out fast. Napa premium is your best bet.
I don't expect to make anything when I get rid of this front end... heck I had to beg a guy to come haul off my stock 10b front and rear end.
That's why I was saying I just want to get it back together and spend as little as possible.
original balzer
1/2 ton status
Im gunna get my butt handed to me here, but here goes anyway.....
D60's have more of a status as being the only axle for a fullsize on 35's or better. I myself learned to wheel in half tons. Yes I have broke 10B's I know they are not the best bet. However I have wheeled a blazer on a D44 front and a 12B rear(6 lug) Both locked, tires varied from 35's to 38's and I never broke an axle. Also In this thread I mentioned a friend who constantly wheels his D44 front locked and on 38's. He broke several time but now has moser (SP?) shafts and doesnt break anymore. His main problem AFAIK is the punny 1310 u-joint on his front drive shaft. I asked why he doesnt upgrade his yoke and shaft. His answer is that was his FUSE its cheap and easy to fix. Upgrading might break more expencive/harder to fix parts. Its not like he blows that u-joint all the time either.
Granted I dont know if you have a D44 or a 10B but Im sure you can beef both of them up with the right parts and KNOWING you have a weak front axle is important too.
Im sure by now youve herd enough from me though.............
D60's have more of a status as being the only axle for a fullsize on 35's or better. I myself learned to wheel in half tons. Yes I have broke 10B's I know they are not the best bet. However I have wheeled a blazer on a D44 front and a 12B rear(6 lug) Both locked, tires varied from 35's to 38's and I never broke an axle. Also In this thread I mentioned a friend who constantly wheels his D44 front locked and on 38's. He broke several time but now has moser (SP?) shafts and doesnt break anymore. His main problem AFAIK is the punny 1310 u-joint on his front drive shaft. I asked why he doesnt upgrade his yoke and shaft. His answer is that was his FUSE its cheap and easy to fix. Upgrading might break more expencive/harder to fix parts. Its not like he blows that u-joint all the time either.
Granted I dont know if you have a D44 or a 10B but Im sure you can beef both of them up with the right parts and KNOWING you have a weak front axle is important too.
Im sure by now youve herd enough from me though.............
talk to me about wheeling on half tons...Im gunna get my butt handed to me here, but here goes anyway.....
D60's have more of a status as being the only axle for a fullsize on 35's or better. I myself learned to wheel in half tons. Yes I have broke 10B's I know they are not the best bet. However I have wheeled a blazer on a D44 front and a 12B rear(6 lug) Both locked, tires varied from 35's to 38's and I never broke an axle. Also In this thread I mentioned a friend who constantly wheels his D44 front locked and on 38's. He broke several time but now has moser (SP?) shafts and doesnt break anymore. His main problem AFAIK is the punny 1310 u-joint on his front drive shaft. I asked why he doesnt upgrade his yoke and shaft. His answer is that was his FUSE its cheap and easy to fix. Upgrading might break more expencive/harder to fix parts. Its not like he blows that u-joint all the time either.
Granted I dont know if you have a D44 or a 10B but Im sure you can beef both of them up with the right parts and KNOWING you have a weak front axle is important too.
Im sure by now youve herd enough from me though.............
i know about it..i just like insurance when im out
hense the reason why a 60 is good..large tires,wide wheels and small backspacing are all very hard on 10b's or 44s..how do i know ive had about 10...ive also broke them before but ive had more parts (ball joints and wheel berings) go out due to large tires than i have had broken parts...oh btw look above my truck is taged and yes i do drive it on the streetSome people actually drive their truck - and for that, if the truck has a ball joint axle, one just happens to need functioning ball joints...
original balzer
1/2 ton status
Good point as well.
I've got a balljoint like that on the driver's side -- My truck tends to wander a bit. I'm rebuilding a 3/4 ton 10 bolt for it right now, so I haven't fixed it, but it really does have a serious effect on steering.
Best thing I did to help band-aid the bad balljoint was to smash my passenger side tire into a tree and bend my tie rod
That toe in puts pressure on that loose balljoint and makes the truck drive nice and straight!
No, the bogger is NOT driven on the street to any degree of regularity, lol
Best thing I did to help band-aid the bad balljoint was to smash my passenger side tire into a tree and bend my tie rod
That toe in puts pressure on that loose balljoint and makes the truck drive nice and straight!No, the bogger is NOT driven on the street to any degree of regularity, lol
I've got a balljoint like that on the driver's side -- My truck tends to wander a bit. I'm rebuilding a 3/4 ton 10 bolt for it right now, so I haven't fixed it, but it really does have a serious effect on steering.
Best thing I did to help band-aid the bad balljoint was to smash my passenger side tire into a tree and bend my tie rod
No, the bogger is NOT driven on the street to any degree of regularity, lol
now that is some redneck enginering
Ball joints are easy to do. As long as you have the tools to do so. I don't mind doing them at all.
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
I will add a x3 on Napa Gold ball joints. Moogs used to be good, but nowandays they are crap imports. If you compare the Napa Golds to the Moogs you will see the difference. They will hold up even with big tires... as long as you grease them periodically 
