Soft clutch- NV4500 Anyone give me some advice?

[Pookster]

Ok, onto the next part of this saga- Had the slave cylinder replaced. Over the period of about 10 minutes, the clutch pedal will be soft until half way down. (same thing over night). If I pump it like 10 times, the pressure builds up. 10 minutes later, half pedal again.

the mechanic said "Its your master as well" - So I replaced the master- neither of the parts looked like anything was bleeding past the seal (would have seen it on the inner side, but nothing).

There appears to be no fluid loss anymore- its not leaking anywhere, so whats the deal here? Not enough bleeding? Bleed some more?

The way i bled the system was-

Fill fluid- Pump until pressure was felt.

have someone depress the clutch, while I open the bleeder screw. Fluid shoots out. Close screw, let off clutch. DO again.

Is this the right way? or am I just not bleeding enough?

its just this half soft pedal in 10 minutes thats irking me.

 

[nvrenuf]

Seems like I read here that to completely bleed the slave you have to unbolt it and angle it so the bleeder is on the top end (of course). I think with it mounted you can't get all the air out.

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

[ QUOTE ]
Seems like I read here that to completely bleed the slave you have to unbolt it and angle it so the bleeder is on the top end (of course). I think with it mounted you can't get all the air out.

[/ QUOTE ]

You're absolutely correct.

Me and beater_k20 fought with mine for hours until I got out the manual and that's exactly what it said. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[Pookster]

farkin /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

Will try that later.

 

[mosesburb]

On my fleet-o-S10's with hydraulic clutches, as per the factory service manual, the slave must be removed and tilted to bleed (still takes about 200 strokes of the pedal--no B.S.--my first time it was over 500), but a buddy of mine had a NV4500 in his '94 K3500, the manual stated clearly NOT to do this as it is designed to be bled in place. If you elect to try the remove and tilt method, be careful and watch for flying parts so you can find them and re-assemble the unit if it blows apart. I don't know which hydraulics you are using as the factory manual is referring to the o.e. plastic slave cyl on the '94.

BTW I have replaced the hydraulics on my S10's because of pedal height/performance. Absolutely no external leakage from either the m/cyl or slave. On one of them I only replaced the slave and about a month later the m/cyl went south. Now I only do them both. As much of a bitch as they are to bleed, it is not worth trying to do one or the other.

Good luck,
Nick

 

[K5MONSTERCHEV]

[ QUOTE ]
Seems like I read here that to completely bleed the slave you have to unbolt it and angle it so the bleeder is on the top end (of course). I think with it mounted you can't get all the air out.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah gravity bleed. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Did you bench bleed them?

 

[Pookster]

THe manual didnt say anything about bench bleeding- Care to explain how to?

yeah, I replaced them both, (slave and master)- Just that I guess I must have more air somewhere.

I know its gonna be freakin fun to bleed, because That plastic snap cap that holds the spring down snapped already- (as per installation)- Its gonna be a biatch to put it all back in... will try tomorrow afternoon.

I'll check back for bench bleeding instructions!