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Some electrical trouble

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xsmokey11499x

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lake elsinore California.
First my ignition switch is busted. My key is a screw driver.. 87 k5.
My problem is when I try to start the truck the fuel pump never comes on. I can run 12 volts to the wire on the fuel pump relay and it keeps the fuel pump on.
Second my alternator isn't charging the battery. It's a good alternator I've changed fuel pump relay ignition module and had alternator tested.
Engine is out of a 95 chevy. Still a tbi with serpentine setup. I have the pigtail jumper for the cs130
 
I meant ignition key cylinder..
Edit

OK, so after some research, I assume something in my steering column is messed up, how can I pull the wires from the ignition switch and bypass the switch? Just temporary, to get the truck running so I can move it
 
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Without looking at a secmatic, I would check for blown fuse or fusible link before tearing apart the dash. I had bad fusible links before that looked good but where bad.
 
Is the relay good? Using a screwdriver to start it isn't any different than having a key in terms of wiring, only cut wiring from the switch would cause electrical problems.

If the relay is good, I would speculate the ignition switch isn't working/adjusted properly, and the ECM doesn't know what position the key is in.

Does the pigtail have the proper resistor? The later alternators used the charge indicator light on the dash as the resistance needed to start charging, yours obviously isn't set up that way stock. There is at least one thread here that clearly spells out what resistor you need, on which wire.
 
I was going to have him check the fuses / fusible link frist then the relay. We don't know what terminal he jumped on the fuel pump relay. We don't know what kind of tools he has. It be nice if he has a multimeter.
 
JDNobodi said:
I was going to have him check the fuses / fusible link frist then the relay. We don't know what terminal he jumped on the fuel pump relay. We don't know what kind of tools he has. It be nice if he has a multimeter.
Click to expand...

Relay is good, took one out of running vehicle and put. Mine there yes pigtail with resistor. I'm pretty sure it's something with the switch getting bad contact. Can I bypass it for testing purposes, to finish getting the truck running. I want to hook It up to, two switches one for fuel one for power and then push to start eliminating all ignition in the column
 
I had a bad ignition switch do some really weird things. It didnt make sense to anyone on here, but low and behold it was the ignition switch. I had dead circuits, and circuits that were suppose to be key on that were constant hot.

For the $25 just change it. Its really not worth the effort to try to bypass it under the dash IMO.
 
Stomis said:
I had a bad ignition switch do some really weird things. It didnt make sense to anyone on here, but low and behold it was the ignition switch. I had dead circuits, and circuits that were suppose to be key on that were constant hot.

For the $25 just change it. Its really not worth the effort to try to bypass it under the dash IMO.
Click to expand...
The column is busted also, can't really put a new key cylinder in there... someone broke it open, but I'm assuming the rod or something else is also broken. The only way I could see fixing this is replacing the whole column. I'm not trying to do all of that after an entire drive train /power train swap
 
xsmokey11499x said:
The column is busted also, can't really put a new key cylinder in there... someone broke it open, but I'm assuming the rod or something else is also broken. The only way I could see fixing this is replacing the whole column. I'm not trying to do all of that after an entire drive train /power train swap
Click to expand...

The ignition switch has nothing to do with the ignition lock cylinder.

Hell you could take the shroud off the column and actuate the rod with your hand if you wanted. The switch is all the way down the column under the dash. All you need to do to change it is pull the lower dash piece under the column.
 
Okay, we have established the fuel pump is good and the relay is good. Now we have determine if the relay is get power at terminal 30 (battery?) And terminal 86 (Key).
Since the alternator isn't charging, I am thinking you might have a bad fusible link which would supply power to the relay. Of course I'm only guessing since I still haven't seen a secmatic.
Testing with a multimeter would be ideal.
 
JDNobodi said:
Okay, we have established the fuel pump is good and the relay is good. Now we have determine if the relay is get power at terminal 30 (battery?) And terminal 86 (Key).
Since the alternator isn't charging, I am thinking you might have a bad fusible link which would supply power to the relay. Of course I'm only guessing since I still haven't seen a secmatic.
Testing with a multimeter would be ideal.
Click to expand...

Stop it. Who tests things before they ask for help on the internet :haha:
 
I'm assuming he doesn't know what to look for. I'm just telling him the ideal tool to test with. It could even be some Harbor Frieght tools pos. As long as it works,
We could tell what to test.
 
Stomis said:
Stop it. Who tests things before they ask for help on the internet :haha:
Click to expand...

I was trying to get suggestions before I head to my truck

Which fusible link, starter to the back of the alternator?
And I didn't know how easy the ignition switch is to replace..
Ill go buy one I opened the old one and had a lot of black carbon in one corner
 
xsmokey11499x said:
I was trying to get suggestions before I head to my truck

Which fusible link, starter to the back of the alternator?
And I didn't know how easy the ignition switch is to replace..
Ill go buy one I opened the old one and had a lot of black carbon in one corner
Click to expand...

Im telling you, funky ass stuff can happen in them...
 
And unless you've got a manual column, I'll just suggest you go find a replacement for $50 and swap it. It's not tough, and a lot easier than fixing a broken one.
 
The alternator gets 12V to its field coils from the ignition to make it charge,so its possible the ignition is to blame,but I rather doubt that it is...

I agree swapping in another colum is worth the slight amount of extra work...if you get lucky you might even find one used in a boneyard with a key,so you can keep the original switch..get one from the same year truck if possible,because the plugs and wiring does vary from year to year..
 
There should be a junction block on the firewall. There usually some fusible links there. As another note an used column would has a switch on it. Why buy a new swich if you get one with a column?
 
ok, so if i run power to this wire to the relay it kicks the fuel pump on but leaves it running
121acuf.jpg

and this is how i have the alternator pigtail.
it has the resistor in it.

29lgxtk.jpg
 
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i replaced the ignition switch anyway. its $10.
it didnt change anything. still no power to the fuel pump
And alternator doesn't charge, fusible links right?
 
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