DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Not that I'm aware of. I believe with the introduction of the 245hp HO in '01 came the bigger input..........BUT ya never know. Just like you may find a 53 blocked ISB way later than cummins said they stopped useing them.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Soooo I did the stack this weekend......
- Thread starter DEMON44
- Start date
I just didn't know if it was for all of 2001 or if it was some goofy deal.
I found a possible adapter for mating a 205 to an nv5600.
http://www.drivetrain.com/nv5600.html
I found a possible adapter for mating a 205 to an nv5600.
http://www.drivetrain.com/nv5600.html
original balzer
1/2 ton status
DAMN DAMN DAMN i just passed on a 97 1t dually with a cummins and a 5 speed cuz it was an engine fire and i thought 97 was 24v. So i figured the elect and comp was toast. The guy wanted $3000 for the truck as is or $2000 without the hydro hay bale picker upper bed thingy. I have to call him tomorrow.
Balzer
Balzer
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Early '98 are 12valve and '98.5 is 24valve. '98 12v are the golden goats. They got the true quadcab with 3rd&4th door. and nicer interior. but also the creme De La Creme of the P7100 injection pumps. the 913s in the '98 stick trucks and are the top dawg.
That '97 is a solid 12 valver though......... with NV4500 and a NP241DHD. Theres still an engine wireing harness and ECM that may be damaged. You;re still going to want the grid heater relay harness and the fuel shutoff solenoid wireing out of it.
That '97 is a solid 12 valver though......... with NV4500 and a NP241DHD. Theres still an engine wireing harness and ECM that may be damaged. You;re still going to want the grid heater relay harness and the fuel shutoff solenoid wireing out of it.
CDA 455
3/4 ton status
DEMON44 said:
Is there a 'better' era of Cummins, one engine over another?
12v vs. 24v?
original balzer
1/2 ton status
Yea I called tht guy today hes took the hydro-bed off and still has the truck but he thinks hes gunna keep it in case he needs an engine. Im gunna wait till my 401k check shows up and wave cash in front of him. If you guys think its worth it. Heres what he told me about it.
The engine fire burned for about 20 minutes he guesses (with the truck running) b4 he got it put out, then shut the truck off. It was on the driver side. It didnt get hot enough to burn the paint on the hood, but they do have fire resistant insulation right? he also claims under the dash looks fine and the interior isnt hurt. Thats his story anyway. He has it out on his farm so i havent got to look at it, so i dont have any idea how much is burnt up. Also it kind concerned me he put the fire out with a fire ext. with the truck running so i dont know if it sucked the stuff in, or if it makes any differnce. He did say it would not try to start at all, and has since took the batt out.
So I need you pros to tell me if i should even try for it or not. The thing is, I dont know hardly anything about dodges how they are set up or anything. What components would be on the driver side ect. He claims thats the only side of the engine that has damage.
So you tell me should i go offer him some cash, how much? Or should i just chalk it up to a total loss and keep looking elsewhere?
Thanx Balzer
The engine fire burned for about 20 minutes he guesses (with the truck running) b4 he got it put out, then shut the truck off. It was on the driver side. It didnt get hot enough to burn the paint on the hood, but they do have fire resistant insulation right? he also claims under the dash looks fine and the interior isnt hurt. Thats his story anyway. He has it out on his farm so i havent got to look at it, so i dont have any idea how much is burnt up. Also it kind concerned me he put the fire out with a fire ext. with the truck running so i dont know if it sucked the stuff in, or if it makes any differnce. He did say it would not try to start at all, and has since took the batt out.
So I need you pros to tell me if i should even try for it or not. The thing is, I dont know hardly anything about dodges how they are set up or anything. What components would be on the driver side ect. He claims thats the only side of the engine that has damage.
So you tell me should i go offer him some cash, how much? Or should i just chalk it up to a total loss and keep looking elsewhere?
Thanx Balzer
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
The injection pump the vaccume pump and the powersteering pump, the transfer pump, fuel filter are all on the driverside. I would be conserned the injection pump took too much heat........and while the dumba** left it running........ badly scored the plungers and barrels in the injection pump.
The turbo and intake are on the passengerside. If he has the stockairbox in it, it'll draw air from inside the pass fender, not likely to have sucked in dry chemical. MUCH more likely to have damage to the injection pump. OR cooked the fuel shutoff solenoid and harness.
I'd try to get it started before I offered him anything. check the fuel lines for damage. Both feed and return. put a known good battery in it (or two batteries) if the cables are good. cable to the starter off the D<S. battery. new fuel filter pump the hand pump till you don't think you can pump anymore.....then pump some more. Crack #1 injection line at the injector.
Now crank.
if nothing happens at all for smoke or burping. get someone to manually pull up the fuel shutoff lever on the side of the injection pump.
Crank again while hes holding the lever. Keep the injection line nut cracked 1 or 2 turns until there steady fuel leaking out and no air. DO NOT REMOVE THAT LINE ALL THE WAY. it sees injection pressure at about 17,000psi. through it. Do not remove it just crack it so it bleeds.
Now if it fires and runs while buddy is holding the lever keep holding it until the idle smooths out. then let the lever go. if it goes down the engine will stop running. and you confirmed the shutoff solenoid is no good. or not getting power. If it starts when you hold in the lever and stays running after out let it go, you confirmed the pull in coil in the solenoid is no good.
if it stays running after you turn the key off, push the lever down. the engine will stop.
The turbo and intake are on the passengerside. If he has the stockairbox in it, it'll draw air from inside the pass fender, not likely to have sucked in dry chemical. MUCH more likely to have damage to the injection pump. OR cooked the fuel shutoff solenoid and harness.
I'd try to get it started before I offered him anything. check the fuel lines for damage. Both feed and return. put a known good battery in it (or two batteries) if the cables are good. cable to the starter off the D<S. battery. new fuel filter pump the hand pump till you don't think you can pump anymore.....then pump some more. Crack #1 injection line at the injector.
Now crank.
if nothing happens at all for smoke or burping. get someone to manually pull up the fuel shutoff lever on the side of the injection pump.
Crank again while hes holding the lever. Keep the injection line nut cracked 1 or 2 turns until there steady fuel leaking out and no air. DO NOT REMOVE THAT LINE ALL THE WAY. it sees injection pressure at about 17,000psi. through it. Do not remove it just crack it so it bleeds.
Now if it fires and runs while buddy is holding the lever keep holding it until the idle smooths out. then let the lever go. if it goes down the engine will stop running. and you confirmed the shutoff solenoid is no good. or not getting power. If it starts when you hold in the lever and stays running after out let it go, you confirmed the pull in coil in the solenoid is no good.
if it stays running after you turn the key off, push the lever down. the engine will stop.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Now if it runs good after starting it one way or the other......give him 1.5k for it or even 2k is decent. The drivetrain is worth more than that even if the engine is a core.
original balzer
1/2 ton status
now say the injector pumps burnt up would that be costly to replace? as well as any other components on that side? The PS pump isnt a prob, the vacc pump may be spendy if its anything like a 6.2 lol.
Balzer
Balzer
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
CDA 455 said:
Geeze, thats getting almost to personally preference territorry.
IMHO.....and NOT ranking the '07 6.7L Cummins due to lack of time in service
#1- 3rd gens ('03-'06) commonrail injection with bosch highpressure CP3 pump
#2- Early 2nd gens ('94-early '98) 12valve Bosch P7100 injection pump
#3- Late 2nd gens ('98.5-'02) 24valve Bosch electronic VP44 injection pump
#4- 1st gens ('89-'93) 12valve Bosch VE injection pump.
Each has its own set of "issues" I'd say.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
original balzer said:
P7100s are not cheap to replace. provided you even have a good core too. Core charge on the p7100 is almost obsene on its own. Vac pump is around $150 canadian last time I asked I think. ps pump less than 100. shutoff solenoid about $175.
you can try and move the rack by hand first before you even do anything else to the truck. if its sticky or seized even. Thats looking like bad news. then I'd kindly walk away at that point and not even bother trying to start it.
DEMON44 said:
Agreed, a tough list depending on what you are into. IMHO, the 12 valve 94-98 is best for swaps and cheap upgrades. Again, my opinion. I have never played with the CR engines though and I'd imagine upgrades for the CR get up there in price too, especially when you have to go to dual CP3's
