specific make/model recommendations for AC components

[clutch2k3]

Y'all have specific make/model recommendations for these AC components for a 1989 Blazer?

- compressor
- dryer (not sure if this is the correct word but hopefully you know what I mean)
- pressure switch that fits in the dryer (or whatever the correct word for "dryer" is)
- r134a conversion kit
- orifice
- oil (PAG150 or ester? maybe something else?)
- r134a

I tried searching here but got a message saying "ac" and "a/c" are too short.

 

[6872xtc]

I won't ever buy another R4 compressor. I bought a Chinese "Sanden style " for my '90 back in '18. I bought a dirty dingo conversion adapter set. It has been doing well so far, even though I don't use the truck much throughout the year.
The most difficult part was the new hoses to hook up the new compressor to the factory components.
I am using the Spectra parallel flow condenser for these trucks.
Ferd "blue" orifice tube.
98" belt.
Sorry, but I don't have a parts list.

 

[6872xtc]

I did find the invoice for the compressor.
I got it from max-ac.com

Item #6511647
It's a replacement for a Sanden 8103.

I wanted an actual Sanden, and after sending them an email, I received a phone call from a man who assured me that they had good results from their lone of overseas units. So I went ahead and bought one because he actually called and talked to me!

I just remembered. I recommend the 11 blade plastic engine fan for the '97 or so Vortec 5.7 in a Tahoe. Put it on the TBI fan clutch.

 

[Wes Harden]

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Need to verify this would work on a square may only be for a gmt400

 

[clutch2k3]

I'm trying to retrofit a r134a port on the high side of my 89 Blazer but its not working. Did I buy the wrong kit?

I cleaned the high side's R12 threads, tightened down the adapter onto the high side's R12 threads, connected the red coupler on the gauge set to the just installed r134a adapter and then screwed in (clockwise) the knob on the high side coupler but the high side gauge shows 0 pressure. The low side gauge shows 95 PSI from the low side adapter and when I allow freon from the low side to the to the high side via the knobs on gauges, the high side gauge reads the same as the low side (95 PSI). So the system has some charge in it and the gauges themselves are working. Looks like there's something wrong with the r134a retro fit adpater on the high side. Or maybe the "pin" in the high side coupler isn't long enough to depress the high side's schrader valve? Is there a hack to put a "spacer" in the high side coupler when this happens (to effectively lengthen the "pin")?

 

[6872xtc]

I can't remember what I ran into on one truck.
I seem to remember one adapter that needed thr original Schrader valve removed from the original port before installing the adapter because there was a Schrader valve in the adapter. BUT that doesn't look like the case for yours.

 

[clutch2k3]

I was thinking something like that too but afaict there's nowhere for a Schrader valve to go in this adapter. Also, the instructions just say to screw it on, unlike the low side where the instructions say to deal with the Schrader valve.

 

[Wes Harden]

these adapter kits have an interference fit thread. The really F up the original threads, and may have to turned with a wrench from the start.
Last conversion I did I had a hose made with r134a high side fitting. I got it done at the local hydraulic hose shop.

What compressor did you settle on ? Also the dyer component for and 89 is called an accumulator.

 

[clutch2k3]

these adapter kits have an interference fit thread. The really F up the original threads, and may have to turned with a wrench from the start.
Last conversion I did I had a hose made with r134a high side fitting. I got it done at the local hydraulic hose shop.

What compressor did you settle on ? Also the dyer component for and 89 is called an accumulator.

The first step I'm taking before throwing parts at it is to read the pressures and I'm have a hard time just doing that.

If I understand correctly, you fab'd your own adapter that has a female r12 fitting on one side and the other side has a male high side r134a fitting? And you left the original male R12 high side fitting alone?

 

[clutch2k3]

This didn't end up applying to me. I was able to determine that the high side adpater was in fact fully seated by looking at the indentation on its O-Ring. Cutting off the nut won't help in my case.

I just found this which sounds reasonable to me. Angle grinder's coming out in the 30 minutes, or forever hold your peace:


... i have had to cut the nut portion off. so the fitting would screw all the way down on the
r12 service port.

if this had not been modified it would not allow the r134 manifold connector to reach
down to depress the schrader valve. which you would have no pressure readings or be able to pull vaccum from that side

 

[Wes Harden]

Yes I did. It wasn't easy, I have a few sets of manifold gauge hoses. The r134a hose are like an Acme thread, and r12 is closer to tubing type thread, I can't recall exactly ATM.
The hard part is connecting a r134a can to a hose that will connect to r12 manifold.
I am glad you discovered a solution.

 

[clutch2k3]

I think what I need is a high side adapter that has it's own valve core (which in turn presses down on the existing R12's valve core). All of the retrofit kits I'm finding on Amazon that have valve cores in the high side adapter also have (very) mixed reviews.

I'm 99.999% sure I now understand the problem. I just found this review for (what I believe) is the highest rated R22-R134a retrofit adapter kit on Amazon:

(t)he high side adapter unfortunately didn’t work for me at all. It screwed on and utilized the existing schrader valve, which was then placed too low in the fitting for my gauge side adapter to reach when trying to open. Ended up getting a different high side adapter.

 

[clutch2k3]

If I end up replacing the compressor and/or condenser, would I also need to replace the hoses to fit the new stuff? Or maybe there are new R134a compressors and condensers that will work with the existing stock hoses?

I wasn't able to get an R134a high side adapter that includes a valve onto the existing R12 fitting. AFAIK I'll have to evacuate the system, remove the valve from the high side R12 fitting and then install the high side retrofit conversion adapter that has its own valve.

If I do evacuate the system, I plan on flushing the evaporator & lines, replacing the orifice & accumulator/dryer, and possibly replacing the condenser & compressor.

 

[clutch2k3]

Is this is as good as it gets for 1989 K5 AC system? All pics taken at 84° ambient.

60° Idle w/all vents open
52° Moving w/all vents open
44° Moving w/just center vent open

I just replaced the orifice, accumulator, hoses, and condensor. Added etser oil w/dye: 1oz condenser, 3 oz evaporator, 2oz accumulator. Vacuumed at -29" Hg for 1 hour. Charged w/30 oz straight r134a. I wanted to put in 31 oz but it would not suck in that last once no matter what I did. The compressor sounds loud to me, making a "clacking" sound.

 

[Wes Harden]

30oz is probably to much, rule of thumb when switching from r12 to r134a is use 80% of r12 charge. If the sticker is on the truck use that. I would guess the r12 charge for your blazer was 1.6-1.8 pd or 25-27 oz, 80% would closer to 21 oz

 

[clutch2k3]

30oz is probably to much, rule of thumb when switching from r12 to r134a is use 80% of r12 charge. If the sticker is on the truck use that. I would guess the r12 charge for your blazer was 1.6-1.8 pd or 25-27 oz, 80% would closer to 21 oz

Just the guy I was hoping would respond!!

I got 36 oz capacity value from 4 Seasons capacity guide. The sticker says way more, 52 oz, and 80% of that would be 42 oz. Going by the sticker and what (little) I understand about hi/lo side pressures, at 85° ambient, the system appears to be undercharged. While running on max, I think those pressures should be at least 45/225, not 20/150. BTW I sprayed water on the condenser to simulate driving conditions while it was idling in park in my garage.

 

[6872xtc]

Definitely should be colder. I haven't ever used a scale for mine, so I have no help there. I charged it until it got cold, which I believe was 225 psi or so?
I can't remember for sure.

 

[clutch2k3]

Definitely should be colder. I haven't ever used a scale for mine, so I have no help there. I charged it until it got cold, which I believe was 225 psi or so?
I can't remember for sure.

Should I target 42 oz of refridgerant or should I target the pressures in these charts?

Since I couldn't get more than 30 oz into it, should I replace the compressor?

How long does it typically take for these systems (e.g. 89 K5) to suck in a 12 oz can of freon? Mine took ~2 hours to suck in 3 cans. I had to keep shutting the low side valve on the gauge, shake up the can and let it warm up, and then reopen the low side valve on the guage.

 

[6872xtc]

I wouldn't condem the compressor based on what you experienced in charging it.
The noise may be a future problem, but hard to tell without more diagnosis and maybe some experience with them. The R4 isn't always quiet when dealing with the parts available nowadays.

I would use that chart as a general guide. There could be slight variances in one or the other gauge reading.

I can't tell you how long it takes to charge with cans, I have access to a 30lb bottle, so maintaining the pressure to push it in is not a factor for me.

Did you try a bowl of hot water to warm the freon can? Maybe that would help a little.

And I don't have tons of experience to share helpful tips, so don't think that I am a professional.

 

[Wes Harden]

It doesn't take 2 hours. 15 minutes would be average.

Guessing you have an r4 or r6 compressor. Since I despise these compressor, I would replace it with sanden up date.

Does the compressor cycle at idle, you can use a box fan along with some water to help. At 85 ambient not horrible with nothing.
if not cycling the pressure is probably leaking past the pistons, raising the suction side.

Always go by pressures as opposed to amount of gas. Use amount as an indicator