CK5
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Speedometer cable not working

inside the end of that speedo where the cable goes it can round and not let the speedo work
i have been through 4 of em
 
inside the end of that speedo where the cable goes it can round and not let the speedo work
i have been through 4 of em
I’ve stuck a drill on the one end and got the speedometer to move so I think it’s something with the transfer case side, Unless when it’s seated inside the speedometer it’s rounded cause I had the cable
Pulled out alittle to attach the drill
 
if you have a ratio box and then cable there is the plastic adapter sleeve like i linked to make the round -tab go to the square drive for the cable .

i ran my truck for years with no speedo until i found this missing part was all that was needed . . :doah:

i have also seen a few drive gears with stripped out square inside them . you need a new / used one then and match it to the letter stamped on the side of the body .

this part here . right side you see the 4 flats crimped in to it . inside they can go round and not drive the speedo cable.

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I took the gear out and attached it to the cable and spun the gear while on the cable and it spun, would I look at the body of the transfer case or the speedometer drive gear for the letter in case I need a new one
 
It doesn’t strip all the way just enough to make not work, clean and look in it. Find depth it goes in and the spin with drill
 
A few guys I know with rat rods use their smart phones with an app to display the speed..because their speedometers are roached from exposure and few working replacements in salvage yards exist..

One of them told me he can "record" the speeds he was travelling at so he'd have proof if he got pulled over and suspected of being over the speed limit..
I know about as much about smart phones as a cave man,but I guess there is not much you cant do with one if you know which things to scroll and click on !..
 
A few guys I know with rat rods use their smart phones with an app to display the speed..because their speedometers are roached from exposure and few working replacements in salvage yards exist..

One of them told me he can "record" the speeds he was travelling at so he'd have proof if he got pulled over and suspected of being over the speed limit..
I know about as much about smart phones as a cave man,but I guess there is not much you cant do with one if you know which things to scroll and click on !..
I never thought of that ill have to download the app if I can’t figure it out soon thanks for the info I appreciate it
 
Update pulled off the housing plastic gear is a little chewed on the one side verified cable is good speedometer is good

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I'm troubleshooting the speedo system on my '79, never has worked. Today installed a new speedometer, new cable and it worked for probably 100 feet then stopped. Spinning the input shaft of the ratio adapter (connects to the xfer case) does register a MPH reading on the speedometer. Speedometer cable ends are both still square, so the cable is good.

Referring to the image above. I do see the flats on the right end of the shaft. If the inside gets rounded out, I'm assuming that whole output shaft needs to be replaced?

~$150ish here:
 
150 bucks for rounded out driven gear braze that puppy, it not load bearing or anything.
 
Yeah, $150 is a bit much for that. I'm opting for the duct tape approach first.

Also thought about back-filling with epoxy.
 
I WAS TOLD EPOXY IT , but when you go to shape the cable into it put vasoline on the cable or ky jelly so epoxy doesn't stick to cable
Yes, definitely need some type of mold release on the cable. Otherwise the cable will bond.
 
I crawled underneath the K5 this morning. Removing the nut from the T-case tail housing and pulling out the driver shaft

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The adapter pin does rotate within the swaged square hole. So that's the issue now.

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Earlier this morning, I had an idea about 3D printing a bushing with a square inside hole, but the ID of the driver shaft is too small so there wouldn't be enough material to print a bushing to have enough strength, so I'm going with the epoxy. I don't think I can create enough friction to prevent the adapter pin from slipping by layering material (duct tape) on the pin.
 
A little closer view reveals the flats have bulged out from the square shaft inside rotating. The epoxy is setting up, seems pretty stiff, I think it's in there permanently...no big deal. Just hope I remember what I did, ha. Or at least my son does. A potential band-aid would be to press the flats back in, re-swage it.

I need to lock it up somewhere until it sets up. The OCD part of me wants to mess with it...

I think Wes' idea of brazing would be better for the long term, that's plan B for now. Just enough to keep it connected and from rotating.

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The ratio adapter that the pin drives is a Stewart Warner, 26% slow correction if I'm interpreting the stamping correctly.
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