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Spicer P/n for 35 spline stubs

35 Spline Stub: D382871
GM Short Inner: D660182-5
GM Long Inner: D660182-6

4WD Factory has them cheap or I can get them for you at same price.
 
I am a vendor I just needed the p/n to order a set, thanks. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
you will need to do some machine work to the ends of the stub shaft to make them work right and not destroy your locking hubs.
 
I dont think that is true anymore with the new Warn hubs.
 
You're a vendor but had to ask on here for the part number /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
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You're a vendor but had to ask on here for the part number /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

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I couldn't find it. I'm a parts guy and I couldn't read a catalog, got any more low blows?

I actually found the part number not five minutes after I posted this......
 
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you will need to do some machine work to the ends of the stub shaft to make them work right and not destroy your locking hubs.

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I'm not using hubs. Hubs with 35 spline outers seems like a not so good idea in my opinion.
 
That was true for the Warns designed for full float rear applications part #38786. The part #62672 work just fine. Warn #39346 drive slugs work even better.
 
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you will need to do some machine work to the ends of the stub shaft to make them work right and not destroy your locking hubs.

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I'm not using hubs. Hubs with 35 spline outers seems like a not so good idea in my opinion.

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Why do you say that /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
Exactly. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

The 35 spline upgrade has become popular now. In the beginning it started with some guy saying, "Wow, look at this P/n, wonder if it'd fit in here."

It has now cought on to hte point that every major hub manufacturer has joined the party. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
The 35 spline hubs are known to be kinda weak and become a failure point. When you upgrade to 35 spline with hubs you move the brakage point from the stub shaft to the hub (assuming you run non necked down inners). Drive flanges are stronger then hubs.

Harley
 
IMO I would want the hub to be the weak point, thats part of the reason I went with hubs, also I can unlock them for street use of course.
 
But with slugs, you have 4 wheel all the time, won't that get annoying when trying to turn in a tight spot?
 
Its not really a problem having slugs unless you have a front locker.
 
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IMO I would want the hub to be the weak point, thats part of the reason I went with hubs, also I can unlock them for street use of course.

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I prefer not to have a weak point, shock loads from axle failures are known to break locking differentials among other things.

I don't drive my rig on the street anymore but if I did I would have no issues with doing so even locked up front as long as I did it in 2wd. Without input torque my locker doesn't seem to want to lock up, and my high angle driveline can more than take highway speed even at the angle it is operated at.

This is an endless debate but I feel that the slugs are a better choice for the 35 spline outers.

My truck hasn't been out of 4 low since I bought my trailer so I suppose it's not going to matter anyway.
 
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But with slugs, you have 4 wheel all the time, won't that get annoying when trying to turn in a tight spot?

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Not if you have hydro assist steering. I run the WTO Redneck Ram, and a Deee-troit up fron and when I was stuck I was sawing the wheel back and for at about 4 grand RPM and didn't have single issue with steering.
 
If you are using Spicer stubs, they WILL be the weak point. With hubs, the stubs should last. Now if you had some higher dollar stubs with slugs, you shouldn't really have a "weak" point, just a matter of what point is weakest.
 
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