Anbody have part numbers for the 10 bolt crowd hardware? My hub is loose and the "tit" is broken.
CK5
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Spindle nut torque warning!
- Thread starter 89 jimmy
- Start date
T
tenderfoot
Guest
Aw hell, broken tits everywhere
Both nuts and washer in correct positions. Just got my new Dana spicer spindle in the mail. I really would like to follow the torque specs in the factory manual for the lock nut but now I’m scared Funny that everyone I talked to says when they removed their hubs for the first time, or switched hubs to manuals that both of those spindle nuts were pretty loose, including mine. I’ve had this truck for 20 years and never had a problem with bearings, even with relatively loose spindle nuts. I never removed a hub on this truck in 20 years either. The truck is in like NOS condition and is always stored in the garage. I’m also installing warn premium hubs while I’m in there. My truck sees minimal 4 wheeling so also considering if I should just put the auto hubs back in and skip the warns
If your “tit” is broken chances are you’ve experienced the same problem I did with the washer walking out of the grooved key way and onto the threads. That’s really the only way to break that tit.
I just watched a video from SEMA both from stage 8. They make mention of the stock washer walking onto the spindle threads just as mine did so I guess it’s a known issue.
I have seen the tab broke off and the nuts backed off due to bearing wear. Inner nut rotates and the lock ring pin shears off. Then both nuts will turn taking the lock ring with it.
Had a guy screw up 2 spindles because he was not getting the pin into a hole on the lock ring. Then torquing the outer. Spins the lock ring instantly.
Had a guy screw up 2 spindles because he was not getting the pin into a hole on the lock ring. Then torquing the outer. Spins the lock ring instantly.
I figured something like that...just needed some calibration information.
I guess I'm the exception here, I've never torqued mine that high. I go 45 on the inner and back it off 1/8-1/4 and then 100 on the outer which always makes me feel like I'm pushing my luck.
. I don't remember it being 180ish though.
I subscribe to this manual
I have never been able to torque the outer spindle nut much over 50-75 ft.lbs before the socket slips off the 4 "teeth"--I even sheared the ring off on the socket once (K-D brand) trying to torque one down good,I was able to weld the ring back on that has the 4 tits to fit in the outer nut so I could still use it..
I just install the inner nut with the pin facing out,tighten it by hand just enough to get all play out of the wheel bearings (use the breaker bar if you just put new races & bearings in and spin the hub to seat them,then back off and hand tighten till all play is removed)-.
-then if I have to move the inner nut more to align the pin with the holy washer,I back it off just enough to do so--then use the breaker bar to torque down the outer spindle nut "good"..
I admit to never using a torque wrench too often on anything--only cylinder head bolts and main bearing caps are about the only two things I've used one on..
I only own one cheap torque wrench,the "beam" scale type,that is probably not very accurate..
I go by "feel",you develop a sense for it after years of screwing around with mechanical stuff..
I just install the inner nut with the pin facing out,tighten it by hand just enough to get all play out of the wheel bearings (use the breaker bar if you just put new races & bearings in and spin the hub to seat them,then back off and hand tighten till all play is removed)-.
-then if I have to move the inner nut more to align the pin with the holy washer,I back it off just enough to do so--then use the breaker bar to torque down the outer spindle nut "good"..
I admit to never using a torque wrench too often on anything--only cylinder head bolts and main bearing caps are about the only two things I've used one on..
I only own one cheap torque wrench,the "beam" scale type,that is probably not very accurate..
I go by "feel",you develop a sense for it after years of screwing around with mechanical stuff..
So if you broke you tit off, well you can push it out from the backside, or in an emergency you can use a roll pin. I have done both. When you push the tit through I usually weld the backside and grind it flat.
air gun / impact is - burp burp for its torquing value . . . 
and lots of times the cheep parts store sockets can break the inner nut pin if there not made correctly for the clearance of the pin . had it happen to me 1 time . all my sockets have notches out of them to clear the pin . good thing tho the pin is the same for all axle sizes i have found dana44/corp10/dana60
and lots of times the cheep parts store sockets can break the inner nut pin if there not made correctly for the clearance of the pin . had it happen to me 1 time . all my sockets have notches out of them to clear the pin . good thing tho the pin is the same for all axle sizes i have found dana44/corp10/dana60
Do you guys think the Stage8 x locks are worth it and safe for regular highway driving? I’m installing new spindle this weekend. Will the stage 8 kit fit with the warn premium hubs???
stage 8 stuff is way better than oem was . designed to hold up in the most hard core of offroad racing .
i dont see why not clear the hubs . but i dont run crappy warn hubs . for years now they have been sub par . i run spicers and if not them yukon hubs .
i dont see why not clear the hubs . but i dont run crappy warn hubs . for years now they have been sub par . i run spicers and if not them yukon hubs .
This is what happens when the pin is not sitting in one of the holes. A little grease helps keep things seated while you run the outer nut, but it's always worth a visual inspection before driving it tight. I've also heard of it happening when a wheel bearing locks up, but never seen it.
How did things go on the other side of the truck?
On a related note, I have have gotten the bearing preload right before with one of those pins broken. It's just tricky. The inner nut can be drilled and have a new pin inserted if you don't have time to wait for a replacement. As for the spindle - has anybody ever repaired the threads with a large die?
Pin was seated in washer, greased the surfaces. The other side went ok, wouldn’t really know unless I disassembled it to look. The only way I found out about the other side was because I noticed the preload on the bearings got tighter so I took it apart to investigate and saw that the lock washer had walked the threads passing the key lock groove.
