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Spring damage from accident, State Farm may total truck?!!!

I think I will be getting Morgan and Morgan to handle my case pretty soon! I just searched Autotrader an local Craigslist, I can't find a truck In the same condition an with the mods I have for less than $4900! An even those are iffy on the amount of rust on them! So screw them! State Farm can suck my tail pipe if they wanna total it at $2200!

Don't screw with this Vet!! Cause you will get the Boot in the ass! Bunch of lowballing ass clowns!
 
It wasn't so bad. I think I stated in that thread that I've been on the other side when my insurance has to settle with accidents where we were at fault.

Lots of folks think they hit the lotto when insurance is going to pay, but the suckers have not paying down to a science. K5's are cool, but cool isn't a determining factor in their pricing.

Basically, you need to document what your vehicle is worth. Use the ads you found where other K5's are selling for more. Add some extra fluff in there for your custom work and counter. Be patient and stall a little bit. Insurance companies want to settle as bad as you want your money. The longer it stretches out, the more exposure they have. Especially if think there might be med bills on the horizon.
 
Yeah! I told the adjuster today that I refuse to piddle over small stuff! They broke it, they need to fix it! The ads I found state $4900 as average with a few for $3800 in stock condition! This doesn't include the rebuilt transmission with performance kit an **** kit. New performance intake manifold, an injectors flow matched! Custom Billet aluminum rims an 32" tires! I have a complete interior sitting in the house that is brand new waiting to go in after the full paint an rest I had planned this Spring.

So if the want to bitch about paying $2800 to fix the truck then I can wait an get a lawyer involved in I need to!

I didn't even bill for medical fir my back an wrist since I have insurance with no copayment, but Florida is a No Fault state which is weird law.

Not to mention the stress an time to tow the vehicle, which my brother let me use his truck an flat bed to store at his house on the trailer for a week waiting for State Farm to finally send out an Adjuster!

No towing bill to them!!! No storage fee!!! So yeah! Screw them!!! They will pay to fix it!!
 
State Farm came back today and offered a cheap ass offer of $2700 dollars for my rig! Please! I have that much in axles and gears in the truck! Their special independent study company said that local truck of my make was selling for $2500 in my area!!! Yeah, right! If that was the case I would own three of them already! You can't find a good rust free body with rebuilt engine/tran/axles/springs/interior for under $5000 with in a 1000 mile radius!

They need to bark up another tree. Oh, an if they salvage the title I can buy it back but only as a parts truck!!! Phuck That chit!!!! The law states I need to be able to buy another exact truck for the price they total mine out at! That is not even close to the price yet!!!
 
Tell them to show you where and give you the ad. Take pics of said truck and compare it to yours. If its different show them the statue under law and demand they follow it or risk litigation.
 
27526_117155148307869_2720_n.jpg
 
Where does one get a new leaf spring center pin? I think I'm just going to do the repair while I battle the idiots for the money. I think it may have just sheared the center pin after all. I won't know until I get the vehicle home of course. But that is the only part I really don't know where to get a new part from.
 
spring bolt

part #CB3850 @ http://www.rockauto.com/ $1.47. Look under GMC-89-Jimmy-suspension-leaf spring bolt-rear leaf center bolt.
Lists it for the rear but it's a universal GM spring bolt, works on front too.

Don't forget the discount code in the vendor forum.
 
sweetk30 said:
3/8 grd 5 bolt with hex head rounded off to make pin.
Click to expand...
Or Grade 8. Either way it works.

I used the bolt because it seems like the commercially available center pins aren't ever the 3/8" size of the holes in the spring.:confused:
 
IIRC on the whole grade 8 vs. grade 5, we came up with the grade 8 being stronger in both shear and tension then the grade 5. Grade 5 had better "stretch before breaking" qualitys to it but despite that, the 8 was still actually stronger.
 
stock center pins are more like grd 2 stuff. thay strip threads off easy if over tourqed.

basicly its there to hold the leafs till ubolts are clamped down. and center the spring on the axle till clamped down with ubolts.
 
sweetk30 said:
stock center pins are more like grd 2 stuff. thay strip threads off easy if over tourqed.

basicly its there to hold the leafs till ubolts are clamped down. and center the spring on the axle till clamped down with ubolts.
Click to expand...

this. they are weak. a grade 5 allen head bolt works great in a pinch. i sheared a centering pin on a set of XJ rear springs with a wrench and pair of vice grips.. allen head bolt worked perfect.
 
Well they finally agreed to pay to fix the truck. I have to agree to sign the final payment agreement. But it finally got the result I needed. Now I just have to fix the truck!

Now the stupid shop I took the truck to is mad they aren't fixing everything. Why am I going to pay a body shop to fix the suspension when I am more than capable of doing it myself an ordering an finding the parts I want to put on the truck! They wanted to charge me a $100 quotation fee for making up estimates for the insurance company! Would have been nice if they told me that to begin with! They wrote 3 estimates because they didn't do it right in the first place. Even the final one is missing the u-bolt kit which is $40 I have to foot on the bill now! Oh well! Incompetence is every where!
 
pay them and remove truck from shop. take to another shop.

in a lot of states now its law to fix the vehicle at a shop of YOUR choice. NOT the ins companys choice.
 
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