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square drivelines

sams78chevy

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I was just wondering how to make one of these. Any dimensions would also help aswell as pictures. Thanks for the help.
Sam
 
take your driveline, cut off the yokes, then use two pieces of square tube that fit inside each other. most will say something like 1/4 wall, but i have seen people twist those. i personally will be running reciever tube, the kind that trailer hitches are made from. get your truck on something that will flex it out, then measure with the diff side stuffed as far as it will go, that is how short both pieces need to be minus any length from the yoke. hopefully when you droop the diff side, it is not more than 2x the lenght that the stuffed side was. if it is more than 2x, then you are screwed.
 
Cut yokes off old driveshaft.

1 piece 2.5" .25" wall tube

1 piece 2" .25" wall tube, grind to clear seam on larger tube.

Weld yokes to ends, lube it well, assemble and thrash.
 
mikey_d05 said:
Cut yokes off old driveshaft.

1 piece 2.5" .25" wall tube

1 piece 2" .25" wall tube, grind to clear seam on larger tube.

Weld yokes to ends, lube it well, assemble and thrash.


only 2 inches long eh? dont you think that will be a little short?

will that lenght fit applications axle moved a few inches forward? what about the amount of lift?
 
Masiony said:
only 2 inches long eh? dont you think that will be a little short?

Yep, 2" would be short if I were referring to the length and not the OD...
 
mikey_d05 said:
Yep, 2" would be short if I were referring to the length and not the OD...

damn, this whole time i thought you made the mistake. oh well guess im the ass this time.
 
.250 wall is beefy. A standard d-shaft tube is nowhere near that thick. In that diameter of square tube, it's pretty well bomb proof. I seriously doubt anyone could twist it. Also, I don't know from experience, but I've heard they're damn near impossible to bend in the rocks. I'm sure smaller stuff can get kind of weak but .25" wall 2" OD square tube is "receiver tube" with a seam, just to give you an idea.

The advantage of square shafts is that they're cheap, home brew, unlimited slip, and you can carry one as a spare since it's bound to fit both front and rear if you run the same joints.
 
Masiony said:
ive seen somebody twist a .25 wall, and not break the 1350 u-joint next to it.

Was it round our square? If it's square did they build it properly? What was the OD of the tube? Where did it twist? I'm honestly curious. Remember if you build a square shaft for a certain application (and not a spare) the small tube should be inside the large tube for nearly the entire length and only be short enough to allow for full suspension compression...essentially sleeving the tube with another .25" wall tube.
 
What if you made the male smaller or the female larger to allow room for some strips of UHMW on each side of the tube for slippage?


Reciever tube may be stronger, and of course seamless.
 
the male will always be smaller, and nothing is needed other than maybe some grease.

the driveline was 2" and 2.5" square tube .25" wall. it twisted from the weight of a 60, and 40" boogers coming down hard on the front end. im not sure if it twisted both pieces or just one, but it tore the output of the 205 when it came down cause it couldnt compress due to the twist.

he is now running like .5 wall or something rediculous like that. i doubt i could break .25 wall, but i know he did.
 
The UHMW would cut down on the uncool rattle.

And, uh yeah...the male should be smaller....than the female.
 
K10A'sBROinSLO said:
The UHMW would cut down on the uncool rattle.

And, uh yeah...the male should be smaller....than the female.

too complicated. just tap it for a zerk.

and who can hear that rattle over any of the other 15 rattles a old chev makes.
 
My doesn't rattles when its in 4 wheel drive. One of the best things I like about it is if you break a U-joint you don't have to remove both ends, only the end that broke.
 
The downside to a square shaft is it can bork up your tranny and tcase. The slip yoke on a square driveshaft has way more friction under torque than the splined round shaft does. When your slip yoke is under torque and you try to compress the suspension you are putting a lot of force on your output shafts and will actually be pushing them into the case when you try to compress your suspension.

Dunno if that made sense...it makes sense in my mind and I have read about it but don't seem to have the words to explain it right.
 
Makes perfect sense, it's a huge downfall of square shafts. IIRC people have cracked tranny cases because of it. I keep mine full of grease and don't plan to run it all that long just because it makes me nervous. They definitely have their advantages though.
 
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