Always wanted a bed behind my sub body.
CK5
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Squarebody Mega Cab
- Thread starter muddybuddy
- Start date
Suburban transforms into crew cab short bed
Productive morning at the office lol.
Got a ‘85 CC cab, still has hydro pedals, which was a nice plus. Wont use for this build but may got into something else. Also has a nice sunvisor. Wont be using it either, that will hit classifieds soon
Guy is taking the 350 out of the frame that i wasnt going to use, so win/win
Got a ‘85 CC cab, still has hydro pedals, which was a nice plus. Wont use for this build but may got into something else. Also has a nice sunvisor. Wont be using it either, that will hit classifieds soon
Guy is taking the 350 out of the frame that i wasnt going to use, so win/win
Guy who dropped it off has no an all original ‘84 c10, 55k original miles. Had camper on all its until recently. Minimal rust.
That bed is MINT! I'm jealous of all your trees. We don't get that here in the desert.
Great picture. Love your K5 sticking her rear in there too.
That looks like a 4dr gremlin!
This is ball park what im targeting:
Need back of pickup cab to finish it off the straight back, not slant of sub. (Photoshop below)
Ive now got the back portion of cab to start marking out potential spots for the cut.
This is ball park what im targeting:
Need back of pickup cab to finish it off the straight back, not slant of sub. (Photoshop below)
Ive now got the back portion of cab to start marking out potential spots for the cut.
Just with a long bed. 
go BIG or go HOME . . . wheel base on a frame is nothing .
Build mental “update”
So think I’m committing to the superduty coil d60 front, which will solve one of the current issues I was trying to iron out, which was mating a pass drop tcase behind a 10L trans. Seems nobody has made an adapter yet (they have for 8L). Have the driver drop would allow me to use the factory tcase that comes with the 10L trans. I have seen several 6.0/6L90/tcase setups for sale, that will likely be a fall back position if it becomes too challenging to get the 10L to work with all the electronics or the budget dries up.
Which then leaves me with what rear axle. I was planning to go with a dodge 11.5, since its super stout and the WMS matches the ford 60 perfectly. Also of note, the ‘14+ (11.5 became standard equipment) 2500 come with a link setup - all the brackets and arms can be easily acquired (similar to the SD 60), would just need to fab mounts on the axle side. Would love to go the rear link route and may do that down the line, if i decide to stick with leaves in rear for now.
All that said, if I did the ford front and dodge (or chevy for that matter) rear axle, I will have mismatched lug patterns. Ive seen the slick 8x6.5 hub/bearing assemblies that are made and the brake setup used (upgrade to bigger brakes), but that certainly adds significantly to price of the SD60 swap, vs just swapping a ford 10.5 that I could likely source with the SD60 for cheap.
Am I being stubborn here? Should I allow myself to rely on a ford 10.5 and deal with metric pattern? (Unclear if I could still run the factory chevy hubcaps as intended)
So think I’m committing to the superduty coil d60 front, which will solve one of the current issues I was trying to iron out, which was mating a pass drop tcase behind a 10L trans. Seems nobody has made an adapter yet (they have for 8L). Have the driver drop would allow me to use the factory tcase that comes with the 10L trans. I have seen several 6.0/6L90/tcase setups for sale, that will likely be a fall back position if it becomes too challenging to get the 10L to work with all the electronics or the budget dries up.
Which then leaves me with what rear axle. I was planning to go with a dodge 11.5, since its super stout and the WMS matches the ford 60 perfectly. Also of note, the ‘14+ (11.5 became standard equipment) 2500 come with a link setup - all the brackets and arms can be easily acquired (similar to the SD 60), would just need to fab mounts on the axle side. Would love to go the rear link route and may do that down the line, if i decide to stick with leaves in rear for now.
All that said, if I did the ford front and dodge (or chevy for that matter) rear axle, I will have mismatched lug patterns. Ive seen the slick 8x6.5 hub/bearing assemblies that are made and the brake setup used (upgrade to bigger brakes), but that certainly adds significantly to price of the SD60 swap, vs just swapping a ford 10.5 that I could likely source with the SD60 for cheap.
Am I being stubborn here? Should I allow myself to rely on a ford 10.5 and deal with metric pattern? (Unclear if I could still run the factory chevy hubcaps as intended)
I do not see any big reason not to stick with the Sterling 10.5 since it will likely get thrown in on the deal with the SD 60 front along with a set of roller wheels.
I know, its the easy answer. Sometimes thats the right answer
Just stock sd60 wheel hubs and rotors that are drilled for 8x6.5. Then you can use the 17” US wheel series 664.
pretty sure you can fit a non reverse mount barrel so the 5.5 backspace wheels.
pretty sure you can fit a non reverse mount barrel so the 5.5 backspace wheels.
I am being told the 10spd is the same as an 8spd. as far as mounting a t-case.
My buddy that does swaps says 100%. He has a 10 spd. swapped blazer in his shop right now.
My buddy that does swaps says 100%. He has a 10 spd. swapped blazer in his shop right now.
Good to know. Wonder why vendors dont state that. Maybe they havent tried it and thats why they are silent on compatibility
The guy who bought my np241 was putting it behind a new 6.6 Chevy drive train. I assumed it was possible.
8x170 to 8x6.5 Drill Template
Are you swapping in a Ford Dana 60 with the 8x170 bolt pattern but already have an 8x6.5 rear axle? Well, here's your easy solution! This template slips over the studs of the 8 lug ford pattern and accurately gives you the drill locations for 8x6.5. All you need is a 39/64" drill bit for stud...
cnafabrication.com
Re-drill the superduty hubs to 8x6.5.
The thought to redrill crossed my mind but i was wanting to be able to run into parts store and use off the shelf parts. But i guess the hats and floating disc’s arent an item you can walk into the parts store for either. I should just redrill, will be annoying when changing brake rotors but as long as not warped could probably turn them a time or two and not have to redrill a second set for a while.
Would have been nice if dodge 60/aam rotors worked with redrilled hubs. Too convenient to be the case.
Thanks for the feedback guys, glad I asked!
Would have been nice if dodge 60/aam rotors worked with redrilled hubs. Too convenient to be the case.
Thanks for the feedback guys, glad I asked!
