Starter click, but no crank - 2 days left!!

[ryoken]

not to drag Pismo's thread even more "off topic", hopefully some of this electrical yattering helps him find the issue....

my choice of adjectives may not have been the best in that first post...

I just find the 1st diagram kinda foolish when you can get the additional benefits of the 1-wire I outlined.. not saying it doesn't work or help, I'm just a big proponent of getting "the power that feed's the whole rig" off the bottom of the rig where it is subjected to heat, slush, mud, bouncing roadkill, etc..

but some may find, keeping the "stock" all fusable links, etc fed from the main starter lug, to be an advantage.. for simplicity, and ease of job, line of thinking..

 

[Fordum]

This has been gone over before on another thread. I'm not feeling up to searching for it.
But the one I like, is to split the link between the original solenoid and the starter motor.
Run the link that used to go to the starter to the trigger on the "Ford" solenoid. Run a heavy battery cable from that solenoid to the power connection on the starter.
Thus, the pink wire fires the original solenoid which pulls in weakly due to the heat problem.
As soon as it reaches full engagement, the contacts that are not made as solidly as they should will still be more than good enough to fire the "ford" solenoid which pulls in at full power and supplies full voltage to the starter.

This eliminates the low voltage caused by the weak solenoid contact engagement.