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starter solenoid wiring help

76k5blazerr

76k5blazerr

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In the middle of installing a ford starter solenoid on my 72 c10 to hopefully cure a heat soak/no start when the motor is hot. I wired it up per the instructions I found on the web and when I went to start the truck all I got was a single click when I'd turn the key. I have the battery cable coming off the hot post on the battery connected to the hot side (I think it's the hot side, it's not labeled) on the solenoid, then from the same terminal on the solenoid the battery cable them runs to the starter lug where it always has been. I have the start wire from the original solenoid pulled up to the top of the engine bay and connected to the s post on the new solenoid. Did I do everything right?

image.jpeg
 
Think I figured it out, think I've got the battery wires connected to the wrong post. In a bit here I'll go down and change them, hope I didn't fry the solenoid by connecting them wrong.
 
Well now I have it connected right and when I turn the key I still get 1 click, what could this mean?

image.jpg
 
The wire from battery go where it is. All the wiring that was on the starter post goes with the battery side of solenoid. the big wire from the starter goes to the post on the right side.
 
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Do I see it correctly that you DO NOT have any wire hooked to the solenoid engage wire on the starter anymore?
 
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If the Ford solenoid doesn't cure your problem, have you checked to make sure that you have a high torque starter?
I can get a picture to show you what to look for if you want.
 
frankin5 said:
The wire from battery go where it is. All the wiring that was on the starter post goes with the battery side of solenoid. the big wire from the starter goes to the post on the right side.
Click to expand...
So you are saying hook the wire from the battery to the side of the solenoid it's currently on, but move the big wire that goes down to the starter to the opposite sides post?
 
76k5blazerr said:
So you are saying hook the wire from the battery to the side of the solenoid it's currently on, but move the big wire that goes down to the starter to the opposite sides post?
Click to expand...
Yes, you need to move the cable going to the starter to the opposite side of the relay. I didn't notice that before.
But apparently don't have any connection to the solenoid on the starter to engage it during cranking.
 
rampage said:
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm

Also, I'd cover those exposed connections(positive cables) as good as possible. Looks like a fireworks show waiting to happen with a dropped tool.
Click to expand...
That's the article I follow. I swear I hooked it up right, like it was in that pic. He has both big wires on the same stud. Guess I'll move the starter wire and then hope it works.
 
So looking at the schematic in the link posted above, it will work that way as well, but you still need to add the wire from the out side of the Ford relay to your original solenoid
 
I believe that you have disabled your solenoid on your starter ...
 
I just got done doing yet another one on my buddies rig. It's really easy IF you follow directions.
1) disconnect the battery power
2) the + battery cable goes to one large terminal on the Ford solenoid
3) take all the wires from the starter connection OFF
4) pull them up to the wiring terminal block near the brake booster
5) cut all the red wires and install ring terminals, connecting them to the terminal block
6) using an 8 ga wire, run between the terminal block and the solenoid (same one as the battery + cable)
7) the purple wire needs extended and attached to the "s" terminal of the Ford solenoid
8) on the starter make a short jumper to bridge the large terminal to the start terminal
9) run a heavy guage (battery cable type) from the starter larger terminal to the not yet connected large terminal on the Ford solenoid

Done
starter_solenoid.gif
 
Other than the fact the Ford solenoid isn't getting baked by headers or the exhaust manifold,I think the factory setup works fine,provided you use nice thick battery cables like 2 gauge or thicker..and ground everything good...

The factory solenoid on the starter still has to pull the bendix drive in,if it gets hot enough it probably will still fail to do that,so I cant see where the Ford solenoid is of much help really...?..
 
It keeps the main vehicle and starter wire up away from the heat. And you never have to remove the battery to change the starter, or a loose due to heat and corrosion main power wires. By having the solenoid and Bendix wire be a single large cable, both always get full voltage. Trust me, it's a huge improvement. You could even see your power accessories get better voltage and work faster/better.
The way I do it is the best method I've found. By running a larger 8 ga power directly from the battery to the junction above the vacumm booster and cutting the old crappy wires shorter connecting them there also, it's a cleaner install with much better electrical current then the factory ever gave you.


ETA: ah, I see your a northern guy, down here in the south with the heat you'll see a huge improvement. Our base line temperature get's 100+, then you add the exhaust, and you see a large drop in current.
 
I'll see if I can grab a pic this weekend of my last install. Did I mention, no more wires dangling down the back of the engine?
 
cyclic said:
I just got done doing yet another one on my buddies rig. It's really easy IF you follow directions.
1) disconnect the battery power
2) the + battery cable goes to one large terminal on the Ford solenoid
3) take all the wires from the starter connection OFF
4) pull them up to the wiring terminal block near the brake booster
5) cut all the red wires and install ring terminals, connecting them to the terminal block
6) using an 8 ga wire, run between the terminal block and the solenoid (same one as the battery + cable)
7) the purple wire needs extended and attached to the "s" terminal of the Ford solenoid
8) on the starter make a short jumper to bridge the large terminal to the start terminal
9) run a heavy guage (battery cable type) from the starter larger terminal to the not yet connected large terminal on the Ford solenoid

Done
starter_solenoid.gif
Click to expand...
Thanks for the diagram, Ive now got it working.
 
I did this mod on my K5 about 12 years ago, and I'm still using the same f*rd starter relay. One of the best mods I ever did.
 
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