Yep, I haven't had a starting problem since putting it on the other day, knock on wood
CK5
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starter solenoid wiring help
- Thread starter 76k5blazerr
- Start date
Here the pics.........................
You can see where I pulled all the wires up from the starter area, shortened them and ring terminals to connect to the factory wire block. The purple is extended and runs with the 8 gauge wire attached to the block.
Then continue in the loom (8 gauge power and purple start wire) up over the a/c system keeping all the wires up away from the engine.
ETA: Ha! I just noticed you can see my burb in the back ground. This is my buddies burb that we just did.
Then down to the ford solenoid. I obviously used blue to continue the purple start wire as that's what I had. This is also a good time to run an 8 gauge from the power side of the solenoid to the alternator. All power connections are made to the close side of the solenoid, and the starter lead is on the far side. The 8 gauge wire to the factory junction block carries far more current compared to the factory wires, you should see a difference in all your accessories.
I soldered and heat shrink my stuff, I figure I like to do things right once and not have to come back and fix it again.
You can see where I pulled all the wires up from the starter area, shortened them and ring terminals to connect to the factory wire block. The purple is extended and runs with the 8 gauge wire attached to the block.
Then continue in the loom (8 gauge power and purple start wire) up over the a/c system keeping all the wires up away from the engine.
ETA: Ha! I just noticed you can see my burb in the back ground. This is my buddies burb that we just did.
Then down to the ford solenoid. I obviously used blue to continue the purple start wire as that's what I had. This is also a good time to run an 8 gauge from the power side of the solenoid to the alternator. All power connections are made to the close side of the solenoid, and the starter lead is on the far side. The 8 gauge wire to the factory junction block carries far more current compared to the factory wires, you should see a difference in all your accessories.
I soldered and heat shrink my stuff, I figure I like to do things right once and not have to come back and fix it again.
Not saying the OEM harness was "great" by any means--when new and un-corroded,the OEM harness worked ok,but was marginal,as noted--once they aged 10+ years you'd start having electrical woes ,and I always hated the way GM routed the wires with the fusible links to the starter,through that steel tube,a dumb idea in my opinion..
--they had it right on the 67-72 trucks,and I re-wire all my '73 up GM's the way they had the older trucks wired--only wires going to the starter are the positive battery cable,and the purple "crank" wire,the ones with the fuse links that GM decided putting at the starter solenoid to burn up, I re-route to the positive battery post,like GM "used" to do it...it was dumb to put them in a steel conduit to roast right next to the exhaust manifold...
--this relay upgrade is a good way of re-wiring the main part of the starting/charging/cranking harness on older trucks,it gives you an easier place to "junction" the main power wires and the alternator charge wires,and the heavier gauge wire certainly wont hurt either...along with making the starter less likely to fail to crank if it gets heat soaked..
--they had it right on the 67-72 trucks,and I re-wire all my '73 up GM's the way they had the older trucks wired--only wires going to the starter are the positive battery cable,and the purple "crank" wire,the ones with the fuse links that GM decided putting at the starter solenoid to burn up, I re-route to the positive battery post,like GM "used" to do it...it was dumb to put them in a steel conduit to roast right next to the exhaust manifold...
--this relay upgrade is a good way of re-wiring the main part of the starting/charging/cranking harness on older trucks,it gives you an easier place to "junction" the main power wires and the alternator charge wires,and the heavier gauge wire certainly wont hurt either...along with making the starter less likely to fail to crank if it gets heat soaked..
morrisammo
Registered Member
Here the pics.........................
You can see where I pulled all the wires up from the starter area, shortened them and ring terminals to connect to the factory wire block. The purple is extended and runs with the 8 gauge wire attached to the block.
Then continue in the loom (8 gauge power and purple start wire) up over the a/c system keeping all the wires up away from the engine.
ETA: Ha! I just noticed you can see my burb in the back ground. This is my buddies burb that we just did.
Then down to the ford solenoid. I obviously used blue to continue the purple start wire as that's what I had. This is also a good time to run an 8 gauge from the power side of the solenoid to the alternator. All power connections are made to the close side of the solenoid, and the starter lead is on the far side. The 8 gauge wire to the factory junction block carries far more current compared to the factory wires, you should see a difference in all your accessories.
I soldered and heat shrink my stuff, I figure I like to do things right once and not have to come back and fix it again.
Thank you ,,, !! thank you! and thank you!!!!!!!!!!! and it runs great! now too!!
