What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

starter

Kain

Kain

3/4 ton status
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Posts
5,725
Reaction score
2,141
Location
Lubbock Texas
So I have had enough of the heavy stock starter and ordered one off of Ebay.
looks like one for a vortex motor and bolt holes line up will install tomorrow.

I have a Question about the wiring.
so the wire coming out of the main starter and the solenoid is a big lug , then another big lug a
and above that is a small one. so the big empty lug is for main power and the little one is s terminal correct?

link for starter I ordered

www.ebay.com

New Starter for Chevrolet Blazer GMC Olds 4.3L 5.7L 7.4L 6449 350 454 9000899 | eBay

Chevrolet Astro 1998-97 V6 4.3L 262cid PG260M Starter. Chevrolet Blazer 1994 V8 5.7L 350cid PMGR Starter. Cadillac Escalade 2000-99 V8 5.7L 350cid PMGR Starter. Chevrolet Blazer 1998-96 V6 4.3L 262cid PG260M Starter.
www.ebay.com
 
Yes. Battery lug will also feed power to other areas of the truck. Unless the truck has been rewired.

Let us know how that starter works out. I would be a little apprehensive buying that.
 
I've thought about going to a light weight starter. The old heavy start keeps working. If it ant broke then dont fix it.
 
I will let you know in the morning if it works. looks like the same thing down at Oreily's
and thanks for the reply
 
wazzabie said:
I've thought about going to a light weight starter. The old heavy start keeps working. If it ant broke then dont fix it.
Click to expand...
after 6 starters in 7 months, I have had enough. and this ain't the cheap 70 dollar starter this is the 144 dollar from Oreily's
 
Kain said:
after 6 starters in 7 months, I have had enough. and this ain't the cheap 70 dollar starter this is the 144 dollar from Oreily's
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have another problem if you're burning through starters that frequently.
 
had the mechanic check as well and he said same thing
shitty parts form wherever they make em.
put tester on when starting, checked ohms on wires
all came back good and the headers are ceramic coated headman
 
one went from battery the rest just went.
charging system checked out to
the starters are made in china now
 
Kain said:
had the mechanic check as well and he said same thing
shitty parts form wherever they make em.
put tester on when starting, checked ohms on wires
all came back good and the headers are ceramic coated headman
Click to expand...
When you say you “checked ohms on wires”, do you mean the resistance of the battery cable? If so, then that’s not the correct way to test it since it can show no resistance with a meter but under a load there is resistance due to corrosion/weak connection. Best way to test the cable is to check for a voltage drop from one end of the cable to the other while it’s under a load.
 
Kain said:
he tested it under load, with a meter, and misspoke on vortex..
Click to expand...
Just so all the bases are covered here, since he checked the positive path did he also check the ground path for voltage drops? IIRC the starter gets its ground from being bolted to the engine block, the engine block gets grounded to the battery.
 
This is similar to the one I used in mine. Love it! It did require different starter bolts. This should be what everyone upgrades to. No heat issues either and you will need to remove any remote starter solenoids (external Ford solenoid) like we have used in the past.


1689284660638.png

1689284687638.png
 
If the heavy starter I have ever goes bad I think I'll just rebuild the starter myself. It was remanufactured in 1991. Maybe back then they were built better.
 
ktmoutfront said:
Yes. Battery lug will also feed power to other areas of the truck. Unless the truck has been rewired.

Let us know how that starter works out. I would be a little apprehensive buying that.
Click to expand...
I thought that you had been around or involved in at least one discussion about this in the last several years.
You must have lost the information when the new diet kicked in.
:D
I have been using a couple of those for years. Put one on the old '95 TBI truck, one on the Jimmy, ('72 block) and one on my '72 C10.
They work well, just need the proper length bolts as @Shawn mentioned.
 
Shawn said:
you will need to remove any remote starter solenoids (external Ford solenoid) like we have used in the past.
Click to expand...
No, as I pointed out in the thread linked above, you just have to use the "2-wire" style. It's the tying together of both starter posts that doesn't work with a PM starter. That's really never the best way to begin with, but people keep doing it for some reason.
 
6872xtc said:
I thought that you had been around or involved in at least one discussion about this in the last several years.
You must have lost the information when the new diet kicked in.
:D
I have been using a couple of those for years. Put one on the old '95 TBI truck, one on the Jimmy, ('72 block) and one on my '72 C10.
They work well, just need the proper length bolts as @Shawn mentioned.
Click to expand...
Maybe. Who are you?
 
Blue85 said:
No, as I pointed out in the thread linked above, you just have to use the "2-wire" style. It's the tying together of both starter posts that doesn't work with a PM starter. That's really never the best way to begin with, but people keep doing it for some reason.
Click to expand...
I use to run the Ford remote solenoid or the Summit kit like in the picture on any starter that was close to headers and would see some heat. The older GM starters were plagued with heat starting issues. I found this out the hard way back when I owned 3 different GMC Typhoons and the turbo heat from the downpipe would make the starter not want to start on a hot day even with a new starter. You would have to let it cool down then it would start. This was a common fix for those heat soak issues and it always worked plus it allows you to bump start the engine easy if working on it. The newer style starters don't have this issue but you can't run the remote solenoid with the new starters. Found that out the hard way too!

1689366994397.png
 
Shawn said:
you can't run the remote solenoid with the new starters.
Click to expand...
You haven't even read the other thread. I'm not talking about running the starter motor through 2 sets of contacts. Those old wiring diagrams have been posted countless times by people missing the point of where the heat soak issue comes from. I'm talking about the starter motor fed through the starter-mounted solenoid, which works for field-coil or permanent-magnet starters. Only the SOLENOID is fed from the remote solenoid, correcting the heat soak issue and providing maximum current to the motor solenoid and starter.

Wiring it wrong is not the same as the concept not working.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom