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Starting my k5 after 8 years

No fuel coming from the lines at the throttle body, so tomorrow I hope to blow out the fuel line from the filter to the throttle body with compressed air to see if any obstruction is there. It could be the pump not able to pump it up there but I'm just checking the fuel lines. I don't like throwing parts at anything, so I'd rather know exactly what is messed up first lol
 
You can check them, but I can't think of any way they can be plugged, since it's a sealed system. Although with ethanol who knows. I assume you'll disconnect at both ends, you wouldn't want to blow crud towards the injectors if you can help it.
 
dyeager535 said:
You can check them, but I can't think of any way they can be plugged, since it's a sealed system. Although with ethanol who knows. I assume you'll disconnect at both ends, you wouldn't want to blow crud towards the injectors if you can help it.
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Yeah was gonna unhook them at the throttle body side and then fuel filter side and blow them out. Was was relieved to see injector pulse, but was really hoping to see fuel when I cracked the lines open at the throttle body. Even primed the pump a few times and nothing came out at the throttle body side.
 
Well, the fuel lines are clear. I am hearing like a running water sound with the filler neck open and the fuel pump running. No fuel at the throttle body. Maybe the pick up is cracked or the pump is just weak bc it can't pump it up to the throttle body. Something just ain't working right fuel system wise. Don't really want to drop the tank, it's got 20 gallons of 93 in it, so might try and cut the floor where the pump is. Which sounds and seems sketchy as **** as it is.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Well, the fuel lines are clear. I am hearing like a running water sound with the filler neck open and the fuel pump running. No fuel at the throttle body. Maybe the pick up is cracked or the pump is just weak bc it can't pump it up to the throttle body. Something just ain't working right fuel system wise. Don't really want to drop the tank, it's got 20 gallons of 93 in it, so might try and cut the floor where the pump is. Which sounds and seems sketchy as **** as it is.
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You are getting fuel to the filter IIRC, correct?

If you are, see if you can get the tank to siphon or the pump to push the fuel out, however slow. If the hose is split, then unlikely it will siphon, but with nothing restricting flow it may pump it out.

I'm not a fan of cutting the body. I'm probably in the minority, but I don't like it. A ton of work to drop the tank, especially if it's never been out before, but cutting a hole in the body for something you should have to replace probably once or twice in your life seems unnecessary to me.
 
dyeager535 said:
You are getting fuel to the filter IIRC, correct?

If you are, see if you can get the tank to siphon or the pump to push the fuel out, however slow. If the hose is split, then unlikely it will siphon, but with nothing restricting flow it may pump it out.

I'm not a fan of cutting the body. I'm probably in the minority, but I don't like it. A ton of work to drop the tank, especially if it's never been out before, but cutting a hole in the body for something you should have to replace probably once or twice in your life seems unnecessary to me.
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Well today when I started out by disconnecting the filter to throttle body fuel line, blew it out with no problem. So I hooked it up, jumped the relay and no fuel. So I took the line back off, jumped the relay and no fuel coming through the filter, so I took the filter off and jumped the relay and no fuel came out. I just let the fuel pump run for a few minutes the it started dripping then I out the filter on and repeated it. I let it run for 10 mins and nothing came out by the throttle body.

I'm thinking maybe the hose between the pump and the fuel pump hat is probably split and not allowing it to get the pressure up. Also would explain the fuel trickling I'm hearing from inside the take.

Yeah, my floor needs to be replaced in the back and the tank has never been dropped to my knowledge. I think that's why I'm leaning more to cutting s hole out of the floor. Plus welding some tabs to the inside to bolt it too wouldn't be bad at all. Eventually I'll put a TPI setup on it so it'll make it easier to get to. And it'll be a little bit before I get around to putting the shackle flip on the rear too.
 
Ordered a fuel pump and tank straps today, should be here Friday. I've got exams and final projects due next week so I'm hoping to finish all that so I can drop the tank and change this out.
 
Put a fuel pump in it, old one had the hose rottened away on it, it still didn't crank so I got some injectors for it and it started right up and ran good. Now I'm debating on going ahead and swapping the roller cam in. I've got a factory vortec cam but I've thought about putting a XFI252 cam in it and run 1.3 rockers to keep the lift height in check.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Put a fuel pump in it, old one had the hose rottened away on it, it still didn't crank so I got some injectors for it and it started right up and ran good. Now I'm debating on going ahead and swapping the roller cam in. I've got a factory vortec cam but I've thought about putting a XFI252 cam in it and run 1.3 rockers to keep the lift height in check.
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You should be looking to tune it if swapping cams. At the very least datalogging it afterwards to see how bad fueling is.
 
dyeager535 said:
You should be looking to tune it if swapping cams. At the very least datalogging it afterwards to see how bad fueling is.
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Yeah I put the driveshaft in and drove it around. I ground down the little tabs on the throttle body, I still haven't decided on the cam, I did decide I want to very mildly port the heads, machine them for lift and a compression bump, and I'll probably go with dynamics flash tunable ECM
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Yeah I put the driveshaft in and drove it around. I ground down the little tabs on the throttle body, I still haven't decided on the cam, I did decide I want to very mildly port the heads, machine them for lift and a compression bump, and I'll probably go with dynamics flash tunable ECM
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Head work on TBI heads? My advice, get some Vortecs or aftermarket equivalents. Aftermarket equivalents for screw in studs and ability to handle more lift out of the box. For the time invested, you'll never achieve what you can get with some "modern tech" heads. At that point it's simply take heads off, put new on, then tune. With factory dish pistons, you'd need to know their volume to get compression right. 64CC chambers with flat tops will run on 87 without problem, with stock SBC deck height.

Besides, if you take heads off a motor that have been on there ~20 years, if they need machined flat, you'll end up dumping even more money into them.
 
Im not in a quest for a shit ton of power, really I'll shave/surface the heads, I've got everything to put screw in studs and mill the spring pockets/valve guides for more lift. I'm not going to hog these out, clean the flashing and little work to the chambers to help unshoriund the intake valve. I just want it to pull like a fright train to 5k rpm. It's a big DIY project that I just feel like tinkering with it.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Im not in a quest for a shit ton of power, really I'll shave/surface the heads, I've got everything to put screw in studs and mill the spring pockets/valve guides for more lift. I'm not going to hog these out, clean the flashing and little work to the chambers to help unshoriund the intake valve. I just want it to pull like a fright train to 5k rpm. It's a big DIY project that I just feel like tinkering with it.
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I understand, just saying that for ~$800 you can be into a set of heads that will pull better than the TBI heads will with no work more than bolting them to the engine.

Not saying the TBI heads are bad, they apparently work quite well as-designed. Just looking at the time/cost/effort tradeoff.

The way prices have been trending, I wouldn't be surprised if Summit/Jegs/Speedway don't sell $800 complete AL heads.
 
Yeah I'm hoping to not put more than $400 in these just for a fun project. But very curious to see how it will run with the L-31 vortec cam on the stock ECM.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Yeah I'm hoping to not put more than $400 in these just for a fun project. But very curious to see how it will run with the L-31 vortec cam on the stock ECM.
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From everything I've heard/read they are really tame. The L31 spring specs weren't enough to run my roller cam, and it's a very mild cam.

Would be interesting to see the datalog with just the cam. Would also be interesting to see the specs side by side, see how much lift difference there is. IIRC the L31 cam is something like .420"
 
dyeager535 said:
From everything I've heard/read they are really tame. The L31 spring specs weren't enough to run my roller cam, and it's a very mild cam.

Would be interesting to see the datalog with just the cam. Would also be interesting to see the specs side by side, see how much lift difference there is. IIRC the L31 cam is something like .420"
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These are the cam specs for both the stock TBI and the L31 vortec cam. Depending on how it runs with the heads like I wanna do I might switch to the XFI 252 cam. The whole roller swap I've got less than $100 in, cam and new L31 springs included.

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iwaxmyjimmy said:
These are the cam specs for both the stock TBI and the L31 vortec cam. Depending on how it runs with the heads like I wanna do I might switch to the XFI 252 cam. The whole roller swap I've got less than $100 in, cam and new L31 springs included.
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Did pretty well if you got lifters for that $100...I've been keeping my eyes open for a set of take-offs, but so far no luck.

Enough of a difference on the cam you should feel/see a difference I'd think.
 
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