92 k5 blazer with 350 TBI, well start and run for about 3 minutes then dies, hitting the gas pedal only boggs it down and dies faster, everytime I try to start it again it runs for less and less time, I've changed the ignition control module as advised but still has not helped, I was told to change out the distributor, have not done it yet, but will when I have time, if anyone could give me advice on how they have fixed this problem or any knowledge on what might help I really appreciate it
CK5
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Starts and dies, please help
- Thread starter Benjam180
- Start date
I don't know the tbi setups too well but it sounds to me like you are running out of fuel. How bout something as simple as a plugged fuel filter? It runs til it sucks the line dry after the filter and then dies. Then it takes a little to push enough fuel through to get it to run again? Watch down the throttle body and see if the injectors stop spraying fuel when it dies.
Either a clogged fuel filter or the pump is going, going gone.
Next thing to check when it stalls again is to see if power is getting to the ignition coil--sometimes a fusible link fries and will only supply current to the ignition switch for only a few minutes ,then the few strands left in the fusible link heat up and the connection breaks..
Does everything else still work after the engine stalls ?..if so,then its probably not that--..
Does everything else still work after the engine stalls ?..if so,then its probably not that--..
How bout a coil issue? Maybe it works til it gets a little heat in it and then quits. This site has pretty good diagnostic help. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ If you are getting fuel still after it dies then I would pull a spark plug and check if you are losing spark and that is why it is shutting off.
The fusible links on square bodies are located in the red wires that connect to the positive battery cable,down at the starter solenoid,there is another one near the brake booster on the firewall at a junction block..
It may have been the coil breaking down after it gets warmed up awhile,they do that sometimes (work only when cold for awhile,then crap out)...but it could still be the fusible links or some other connection is failing intermittently..new coil may not completely solve the issue--only way to find out is drive it and see if it happens again..
It may have been the coil breaking down after it gets warmed up awhile,they do that sometimes (work only when cold for awhile,then crap out)...but it could still be the fusible links or some other connection is failing intermittently..new coil may not completely solve the issue--only way to find out is drive it and see if it happens again..
You may have a vacuum leak or the EGR valve may be opening too soon,or not closing fully-a vacuum leak tends to be more likely to stall a cold engine than one fully warmed up..
I'm no TBI expert but maybe the coolant temp sensor is not working 100% right ,I think one can malfunction and still not set off the check engine light or throw a code..
I'm no TBI expert but maybe the coolant temp sensor is not working 100% right ,I think one can malfunction and still not set off the check engine light or throw a code..
Well I know for a fact the egr valve is probably bad due to a cracked rubber valve in the back of it, so I'll try replacing that first, my blazer doesn't send out codes with either the obd1 scanner tool or the pins in the port trick, I notice my house to the egr limes to fall of ad well so it may be that whole piece
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
Replace the egr. That extra air will thin out the fuel too much in the tbi. Cause stalls. Way more when cold.
Is it a possibility that a broken egregious valve can cause a gas or exhaust like smell? Whenever I have the windows open it has that kind of smell, so not sure what could be messing up or leaking, but the stalling whenever it's cold has stopped completely with nothing that I have done to the engine bay
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
Egr valve controls the flow of crankcase gases back into the engine. So the smell coming out will be kind of like a dull fuel burnt oil mix. Especially if it's a high milage engine with some blow by.
That's somewhat similar to what I'm smelling, like a slight oil fuel mixture, similar to the exhaust from a chain saw, and yes I believe it is a high milage engine, I had to swap it due to a chewed up crankshaft, from blown rod bearings, and the place I got the engine from never told me the milage, but it seems like it is
If you know the EGR is bad, replace it. But when you say "no codes", there is another problem that needs addressed. Figure out why you don't get codes next. May just be a burnt out bulb, but it needs fixed.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
When the a&in pins are connected it should flash code 12 three times them any diagnostic faults after that. If it's not flashing code 12 on the cel lamp, something else may be wrong. I would replace the egr and go from there.
