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stealth dually???.............I just may go that route

original balzer

1/2 ton status
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Nov 17, 2004
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Location
roosevelt utah
traded my 71 k10

my25-002.jpg


To my dad for this.

1986 350, th400, 205, D60 of course, and I assume a D70? Im not getting the welder with it and Im not going to use it as a welding truck I am thinking of a hidden wheel lift (tow truck) front and rear winches and a snow plow. Some tools, 5th wheel and goosneck hitches. Recovery, repo, snow plow work truck.

Pics
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Plans are to fix it up maybe paint it flat black. I may do a light bar or another idea I had was to add more cab lights with strobe bulbs instead. Any other ideas or sugestions?
 
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If that's the narrow dually (looks like it, and should be if it was made as a cab-n-chassis) that's a 14BFF rear... but the C&C, the redheaded bastard stepchildren of 14BFF's. Axle shafts and housing are SRW, but hubs and brakes/brake flange spacing are DRW.

-- A
 
I do believe you are correct. It seams the dual wheels are tucked up under the bed more than it would on a truck with a normal dually bed on it, but Im unsure right now. Good to know if I put lockers in it though.

Anyway it runs and drives good, a little under powered with just a 350 but its a newer goodwrench crate engine. It was orignally a truck from Deseret power plant. Dad was told the trans was replaced at the same time as the engine but didnt get a milage that they was replaced.

Should make a great work/tow rig even if it is slow.

Ok so I need ideas on winch placement. I have 2 warn 12K's and a warn 9K and a ramsey PTO 8K, OH and a 2500lb warn ATV winch. HAHA NO I dont want to put all 5 winches on this 1 truck. I think I will use 1 of the 12K's on the rear. But I am stumped on where. Up on the bed it could be used to load things onto the bed and to pull stuck vehicles but it would be ON the bed in the way of loads. However on the rear it would be useless to load stuff onto the bed but could be used if the bed had a load.

:doah::doah:
 
maybe the underpower issue is due to too small of a banks sticker?:confused::haha:


Yea I dont know why someone stuck a bunch of diesel related stickers all over it. Best I can tell it has never been a diesel. Dad actually took a bunch off the windows.


HMMM 6.5 turbo swap............ NAW not right now.
 
If that's the narrow dually (looks like it, and should be if it was made as a cab-n-chassis) that's a 14BFF rear... but the C&C, the redheaded bastard stepchildren of 14BFF's. Axle shafts and housing are SRW, but hubs and brakes/brake flange spacing are DRW.

-- A


Wait is this stealth dually material???? I have to go find your threads and read up.
 
my k30 plow rig.

federal signal all light streethawk light bar.

fisher older speed caster snow plow 8ft hd . live hydro pump on motor.

6" lift total and 35" on it then.

got to get new pics soon. on 235/85/16 stockers now no more big tires. and singled the rear out with 2" spacers. as this truck was orignaly a drw 4x4. still 6" lift under the truck.

painted plow.jpg

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spacers n wheels n caps 002.jpg

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Wait is this stealth dually material???? I have to go find your threads and read up.

That's the original. Mine's a bastard halfway between the C&C and the wide dually.

You'd hafta do some sheetmetal work to get a normal pickemup bed on there, but yeah, that there is a narrow-WMS dually.

-- A
 
Ok so I did some measuring and this truck is deffinatly the C&C narrow dually and it standard wheel base. I dont really like the flatbed and I dont really like dually fenders. I do love Dr Emu's stealth dually so it sounds like the perfect solution.

Consitering I have the parts I need such as a good bed and doors with regular mirrors (and not cracked out from the west coast mirrors) Oh and a good pass front fender.

All aquired a few weeks ago when I bought this truck I really didnt need or want. The price was right and it helped a single mother who is a good friend of mine.
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So I think the best course of action is to run with the "stealth" theme. I have hot rod flats satin black paint, paintable mirrors, 5th wheel and goosneck hitches, and the ability to build a few other components such as bumpers and a headache rack. I think I will go with the phantom grill insert with the headlights and markers removed and run snow plow lights on the grill gaurd. Shave the embelems and powdercoat any remaining chrome or stainless in gloss black. Perhaps powdercoated wheels as well.

All I need now is the hidden wheel lift and a snow plow

Oh and Thanks Dr Emu, I didnt need another project but the inspiration should make for a pretty cool truck.
 
maybe its just underpowered for all the welding crap on the back of it. and that steel deck is mucho weight.
 
maybe its just underpowered for all the welding crap on the back of it. and that steel deck is mucho weight.


Very true. It may feel a lot better with less weight. looking at the built sheet on the driver fender it was originally a 454 truck. If it still seams underpowered I will build another engine to swap in later. If I was to guess its probably the lowest HP crate engine available which is only 250HP I think. Pretty low for a tow rig. I would like to go with a caddy 500 if money wasnt an option.:D
 
This is the one regret of my life sold this truck instead of putting a d60 and divorced 205 under it.
It had a 94 ctd a nv4500 and 14bff
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Got the truck started and pulled it over into my driveway. I has a gas line leak at the pump. Air in the line wouldnt let it start before the battery went dead but that will be a easy fix Im sure.

It hasnt been run in about 4 months.............no It was took out for a day of welding about 2 months ago i think.

Anyway my backhoe wont start either the battery is too far gone to even jump start it or the starter has gone belly up. The solinoid just chatters I let it charge with the jumper cables for about 20 minutes and still wouldnt turn over. So taking the welder and related stuff off will have to wait.

I have to work tonight so maybe tomorrow I will fix the fuel line.
 
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