Good to know. I wonder if running a smaller diameter ram would help.
CK5
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Steering box broke
- Thread starter F-ingrob
- Start date
It’s supposed to. What size?
That's a good question, I'm not sure. I do know that PSC sells Rams from 1.5 to 2.5 diameter. Go looking around online though and there are a crazy amount of choices.
F-ingrob
Wheres the mud
I run a 1-1/2x8 and had to
It’s easy to modify the pump
I think that several guys should try Benchworks and see how they are now. I have no problem spending someone else's money!!! 
I have a non-ported box on my '70 that they built years ago. It is perfect for what I wanted. I know of 2 other boxes around here, but I only got to drive the one ported box about 2 miles before I parted the K5 out and sold the box. My son also has a unit from them, but hasn't driven the truck.
I have a non-ported box on my '70 that they built years ago. It is perfect for what I wanted. I know of 2 other boxes around here, but I only got to drive the one ported box about 2 miles before I parted the K5 out and sold the box. My son also has a unit from them, but hasn't driven the truck.
I think that’s what mine is
How thick is the repair plate? Standard practice for sheet metal like this is to weld a bit on one end, beat the next section until it fits and repeat. You may never get it to bend right before you start welding.
That’s what I’m debating on. I couldn’t get the front to seat worth a crap.
not sure - somewhere between 1/8 and 3/16 - it was one of the commercially avail repair plates and i ordered it with the brace that goes to the center of the crossmember under the radiator.
it was not a question of bending the plate to the frame- the contour of the stamping was incorrect to mate up to the box itself. I torched it, beat it with a sledge, looked at it, torched it more, test fit it, ripped it off, torched it, cursed a little, tried a smaller hammer, tried both hammers from the other side... anyway you sliced it, there was going to be be problems. thought about trimming it down and seeing if it would fit on the INSIDE of the frame rail, and then modify everything else that is in there with it, but it would have been WAAAAAAAAy too much work, and I ended up aborting.
I'm just glad I caught it before welding the stink out of it and having a permanent problem with my frame afterward. looked like it was going to impart all kinds of stresses on the original frame, and there would be no way to use the scab plate without cutting it up into little pieces and doing a hell of a lot of grinding and test fitting.
I ended up drilling holes on the ends of all the cracks, then grinding into the material, welding, and grinding down the outer welds down to the original surface height where the box needed to fit. then i used the bolt on brace on the inside.
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So I have these parts sitting here, ready to go on, along with crossover steering, when I get a nice weekend to wrench in the driveway, (No garage here). I layed the ORD plate on the back of the 2wd box, and I can confirm the center of the box hits the plate and the plate doesn't sit flush. Also the plug weld at the center could hold it out. I'm sure bolting it down first before welding would help. I might just shim the box out a bit if it is still interfering.
yup! thaat brings back memories. I had thought about removing the entire center section, and only using the ends, but i still wasnt sure if I liked how rounded the contact surface at the bolt holes was going to be. I really felt i would be risking breaking off the casting on the pump, and/or it never staying tight to the frame, and/or putting the frame itself under uneven stress if i forced it all together... in which case am i helping it crack again? if so what was the point.
I think I remember getting some big fat washers and trimming to fit the inside of the frame when I did mine- tried to spread the load out on the bolts that were not connected to the new diagonal brace.
If I ever have to get in there again, the manic mechanic will be involved:
1) going to make some carboard pattern, and lay out 2 patches of flat stock on the front, bolt them to frame without the box, score with grinder, and then heat/pound them until they make contact with the frame rail.... there will be no extra material in the center where the body of the box goes...
2) box the inside of the frame and cut the material at an angle on either side so it does not create stress risers where it ends on the front and back
3) pilot through the original steering box holes all the way through the outside and inside of the box
4) enlarge holes so steel tubing can be passed all the way through and welded to both sides.
5) buy longer bolts, mount the box, and deal with all the other modifications and rerouting of whatever is now messed up because of the changes to the frame.
6) curse at the box, dare it to come loose, kick the truck, and drive off into the sunset with my right foot down hard.
If I ever have to get in there again, the manic mechanic will be involved:
1) going to make some carboard pattern, and lay out 2 patches of flat stock on the front, bolt them to frame without the box, score with grinder, and then heat/pound them until they make contact with the frame rail.... there will be no extra material in the center where the body of the box goes...
2) box the inside of the frame and cut the material at an angle on either side so it does not create stress risers where it ends on the front and back
3) pilot through the original steering box holes all the way through the outside and inside of the box
4) enlarge holes so steel tubing can be passed all the way through and welded to both sides.
5) buy longer bolts, mount the box, and deal with all the other modifications and rerouting of whatever is now messed up because of the changes to the frame.
6) curse at the box, dare it to come loose, kick the truck, and drive off into the sunset with my right foot down hard.
-not that I've put any thought into this before.
I am surprised to see several guys having the fitment be such a problem now. The one that I did years ago was no problem to hammer into place, then clamp it to weld.
I wonder if the pattern has changed over the years.
I wonder if the pattern has changed over the years.
maybe the press dies are worn out ?
mine looked exactly like the plate pictured above, and that was 5-7 years ago??
Look at how the stamping is much more pronounced on the Smittybilt version.
shart ME!
how long has smittybuilt offered those?! i may have tried to make it work if I had known there were others available
For quite a long time. They're also rebranded and sold under other companies names.
Welp, just bit the bullet and ordered the Smittybilt plates part number CC 100. I'll post side by side photos when they arrive either on this thread or I'll start a new one.
