CK5
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Steering box frame crack.

The ORD part is different from the Rough Country part. Mainly in the shape is all I could tell.
 
This is the perfect reason to start welding. Grab some scrap metal and start practicing running some joints. If you can master a vertical and overhead weld pass then you will have no problem getting this frame crack issue resolved. Tons of guys here be willing to help you along the way as well to make sure you are getting the basics and more nuanced procedures. Torch angle, stick out, size of wire and setting the machine etc., don’t let it be daunting.
 
TJ.....

Here's your opportunity to step up your game and buy a good mig welder !!

It's the natural progression for anyone that owns squares....:whistle:
I know and I don't disagree. Link me a starter mig welder and I'll look into it
 
This is the perfect reason to start welding. Grab some scrap metal and start practicing running some joints. If you can master a vertical and overhead weld pass then you will have no problem getting this frame crack issue resolved. Tons of guys here be willing to help you along the way as well to make sure you are getting the basics and more nuanced procedures. Torch angle, stick out, size of wire and setting the machine etc., don’t let it be daunting.
Sounds reasonable. I'll look into a mig welder. Maybe harbor freight has "beginner" type for sale
 
definitely want something 140amps and above,

The lower “100HD” flux type machines will just lead to frustration because they can’t penetrate. If I had to start all over again I would get the Hobart 190 to start with. 220v. I’m running the Hobart 140 115v and it’s a great little machine but you have to be experienced in knowing what to look for to know you have penetration. With a better higher powered machine it’s much easier to get welding IMO.

Hobart is made by Miller and has the ability to be rebuilt. I would stay away from off brand names for a welding machine.
 
Those smaller machines are great for sheet metal and sheet metal only. They will not penetrate and leave a strong molecularly bonded weld on 1/4”-1/2” material. It’s an investment for sure but once the ball gets rolling on welding you’ll be wanting to get into thicker materials and a small machine like that will hold you back.

You can get a Hobart 190 220v machine for like $849 on Amazon.
 
Tractor supply or other places . .

Hobart 140 . Dam good for the buck . There millers off brand . And just get a c-25 bottle of gas and be better in the end .
I used my 140 to weld my 1/2” plate welding table top to its rolling base. I would not recommend doing this unless you got some hours under the hood. But I was able to get the 140 to bond 1/2” running 115v
 
A 140A 115V machine will not weld 1/2 material properly, sure it’ll hold a table together but you do not have the penetration you need, guaranteed.

TJ, as was stated for what you want to do a 140 machine will work great, but don’t get a flux only machine get one that can at least use gas even if you chose to leave it flux for a bit…the 140 machine will weld 1/8 and 3/16 with ease.
 
A 140A 115V machine will not weld 1/2 material properly, sure it’ll hold a table together but you do not have the penetration you need, guaranteed.

TJ, as was stated for what you want to do a 140 machine will work great, but don’t get a flux only machine get one that can at least use gas even if you chose to leave it flux for a bit…the 140 machine will weld 1/8 and 3/16 with ease.
So this one will work?

 
A 140A 115V machine will not weld 1/2 material properly, sure it’ll hold a table together but you do not have the penetration you need, guaranteed.

TJ, as was stated for what you want to do a 140 machine will work great, but don’t get a flux only machine get one that can at least use gas even if you chose to leave it flux for a bit…the 140 machine will weld 1/8 and 3/16 with ease.
Exactly, I know it’s not penetrated enough. Which is why I went with multi-passes and pre heating the absolute snot out of it. It won’t fall off though either. Minimum 190 220v which is why I would start there and skip the headache that I have later in wishing I had purchased a higher powered machine.
 
Another note on the hood. Get one where the sensor is on top of the window. My Lincoln Viking helmet the sensor is at the bottom of the window and if I’m crouched let’s say between a tire In a wheel well, if that sensor goes behind the tire dang thing will flash me bad and that was a $475 hood. My next hood will be a Miller elite. The Viking is great for over head welding when you won’t have any obstructions in view. But I really love the old green lens Miller elites. You could really see the puddle with those helmets. They moved to a “diamond” clear style lens which I don’t really care for. Also, I had to retro fit a Miller elite headset to the Viking because the headset on the Viking broke after about a month of daily use.
 
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I have a miller, a Hobart, and a harbor freight welder. The Hobart is probably my favorite. The miller I like but it is very picky on settings and the harbor freight setting are basically Ho lo on off lol……if you buy a harbor freight I think you’ll wish you’d just saved up for a better one. The other issue with HF is you can’t replace parts like you can on a name brand one.

As the others said get a good auto darkening helmet.
 
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