What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Steering Box Help needed ASAP

First let me say Thanks. :bow: You led me through what is probably elementary to most, but like everything for the first time can be confusing to those (me) who haven't done it before and don't have a background in mechanics.

Its all out and getting it back together is a snap. I'll bet that someone else with my complete lack of knowledge will be wondering how to do this, and that's what this site is ll about. :waytogo:
 
Good job! You're welcome

Well, that's how you learn. You get your hands dirty and you try. You get stuck, you ask questions. That's how I learned. Do it long enough, and you'll be helping someone else out who's in your shoes now before you know it. Just take your time and do it right the first time. :waytogo: :waytogo:
 
another steering box question

Will the steering box off a 1984 4x4 fit a 72 Blazer? They look very similar, but can I use the newer box to replace a very leaky 1st gen. box? I'm asking in this thread because you guys seem to know your stuff.
 
Steering box

As long as it's off a 4X4 (Assuming your rig is too) it should bolt right on. I'd save the old box, clean it up and put new seals in it. The core charges on a reman box are more than the cost of the box (About 275 bucks!)
 
Box fits,but...

Your 84 box will bolt up to the 72 K5.but the power steering hose fittings went from SAE flare to Metric "O" ring fittings somewhere in the late 70's--some folks say 1980 was the first "metric" year,but I've seen a few 78-79 trucks that had them...

So to use the 84 box,you will need to get the pressure hose from a later 80-up truck,and the "bung" it screws into on the back of the P/S pump--or try to find an adapter (they do make them,but are pricey--a new hose, and a bung from a junkyard will likely cost less..)--or you could find a later hose and cut it AND you old one in two,and have them coupled together at a place that makes hydraulic hoses..

Then all you have to deal with is the "rag" joint--some boxes had different size splines on the input shaft..so you might need the rag joint that matches the 84 box..

Ever wonder why GM makes everthing "almost" identical,but just different enough to make parts swapping a hassle??..the only good thing about GM parts is even if they are the "wrong" part,a little grinding,drilling,and time makes them work!...cant say that for a FORD!... :rolleyes: :haha:
 
UPDATE - Since this thread, I have replaced then entire box. I think that the information is good if you are replacing the seal, and its cheap so its worth a try, but mine kept leaking after 2 more seals and I gave up.
 
When you changed the seal did you check the shaft? They will start to get rust, pits, and grime. I always pull the shaft out and clean it really good. Just a tip im sure you checked it though.

You can also give Matt at WTO a call to figure what will fit what and mods.
 
So if im reading this right you can just remove that snap ring and the saeal will come out? then just put in the new seal and put the snap ring back in and its good?
 
Great thread - my power steering box on my 69 K20 is from like a 78 3/4 ton and it is leaky after the rag joint broke which in turn caused some damage to that specific seal.

Am I correct that the large retainer ring at the end of the steering box does not have to be removed to access the seal? First time I tried to fix this leak I thought it did have to come off and I couldn't get it to come off. I finally gave up.
 
cbbr said:
UPDATE - Since this thread, I have replaced then entire box. I think that the information is good if you are replacing the seal, and its cheap so its worth a try, but mine kept leaking after 2 more seals and I gave up.
Click to expand...
:haha:sweet. i feel like doing the same thing. mine was leaking a little. so i replaced the seal and it leaks worse!!!!i missed something or did something wrong.so for now i keep the belt loose to keep from painting the engine bay.:rolleyes:
 
There should be two seals in there. One seal is a regular seal and the other is flat seal. The flat seal goes on the outside.
You need 243 washer (it is a seal actually) and the seal 242.
422400948al.gif
 
JDNobodi said:
There should be two seals in there. One seal is a regular seal and the other is flat seal. The flat seal goes on the outside.
You need 243 washer (it is a seal actually) and the seal 242.
422400948al.gif
Click to expand...
so THATS why the bastage leaked more.i ripped it a new A hole getting the other one out.:thinking:
 
Mine is leaking at the top...anybody know where I can get Pn 224? Will RTV be all right?
 
I'm in the middle of doing this repair and hate to sound stupid but I'm still confused on if anything more than the snap ring needs to be removed to get the flat dust seal and the regular seal out. I've got the steering shaft off and the snap ring removed but to me it looks like the dust seal and the regular seal are not accessible yet.

steeringboxseala.jpg


Does the outer ring that I've marked as "1" need to come off or the flat retainer that I've marked as "2" need to come off to access these two seals?
 
You shouldn't need to remove #1 or #2 to get the seals out. Doing so will mess up the input shaft preload.
 
Good to know as I can't get the #1 part to move at all using a punch. I put the new flat seal up against the opening in #2 and it looks like the seal is just slightly larger, I hope it will flex a bit to pop in once I get the old seals out. Thanks.
 
It was a tight fit when I rebuilt mine, but a little PS fluid and a deep socket did the trick. The input shaft wasn't too tricky as there are no extra washers or whatnot like the pitman shaft.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom