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Steering isn't right - any ideas?

ACannell

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIvgoG2jR7s

So this is my buddies 90' burb & the steering isn't working right. When its up on stands the steering has full articulation but when on the ground it turns maybe 20% either direction. Above is a video I tried to shoot and wanted to show the lack of articulation. If you watch the video notice that noticed nothing seems to be flexing abnormally. I know the center pins ain't broken, the frame isn't flexing and the steering arm is at the appropriate angle. I'm at a loss for what to do. Any ideas?:confused:
 
Steering box junk? Just an educated guess...

If the input (steering wheel/shaft) is turning lock to lock but the output (pitman arm) is only turning 20% in either direction, I'd say the failure is internal to the box. But, if the pitman is turning lock to lock also, the failure would be in the drag links/tie rods etc.

Make a mark on the pitman arm and turn all the way left, mark the box, turn all the way right, mark the box. Then jack it up and do the same thing. See if it turns farther when unloaded.
 
My thoughts were the same. Whether on stands or on the ground the box turns equal distances. Only on the ground it seems like something is flexing so much the steering washes out and leaves a very diminished radius. Any thoughts?
 
Steering box junk? Just an educated guess...

If the input (steering wheel/shaft) is turning lock to lock but the output (pitman arm) is only turning 20% in either direction, I'd say the failure is internal to the box. But, if the pitman is turning lock to lock also, the failure would be in the drag links/tie rods etc.

Make a mark on the pitman arm and turn all the way left, mark the box, turn all the way right, mark the box. Then jack it up and do the same thing. See if it turns farther when unloaded.

What he said. I would have to think that there is an extreme amount of wear, i.e. play, in the steering linkage. Enough so that there is a ton of wasted movement, that wasted movement is not being transferred to the knuckle, but instead up/down, side/side, etc.
 
Without replacing most items I'm not sure what else to do. I will report back if I have any success or failures. Thanks gent.'s
 
Often times on a lifted truck that's how it is.

The likely higher scrub radius and almost certainly more difficult steering force cause by bigger/wider tires is compounding flex at the frame, flex in the driver's side front spring bushing. etc.

Some of it is a little harder to describe like vertical changes in the steering as it cycles due to caster angle.

Regardless, the stock GM steering isn't great. Especially on a lifted truck. Hence why we've been selling crossover steering setups these last 13 years :D
 
Time for a 2wd box, and x-over!!!!

Regardless, the stock GM steering isn't great. Especially on a lifted truck. Hence why we've been selling crossover steering setups these last 13 years :D

Once you have x-over, it's night and day.
GM steering components SUCK.
Not to toot ORD's horn, or anything, but their stuff rocks!
 
You can test the various steering components by hand to a certain degree. Grab the tierod, the long one that goes side-to-side, and try and pull it left or right. If you can move it at all with the tires on the ground, chances are the tierod ends are wiggly, i.e. worn.

Same for the draglink, the short one that goes front-to-back; if you can feel any slop they're suspect.

Also, as noted, have somebody watch the frame whilst turning the steering wheel. Even if the frame isn't cracked, the box could move on its own. ORD also sells the bolt-in steering brace which, IMO, is a requirement.

That should getcha started...

-- A
 
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