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Steering questions

R

RPM

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I have 1988 Blazer with ORD crossover steering, (10 bolt front) 4” Ezride front springs,
4 inch shackle flip, PCS steering gear, have relocated shock mounts in front using the ford shock mounts and also made some mounts for the rear. I have some questions; first the steering feels real loose (truck slow to respond to input from steering) nothing is loose in front end new ball joints and hub bearings. I also don’t like the way it feels without the sway bar has anyone come up with a sway bar that would work with crossover steering and quick disconnects? What about sway bar in rear? Also steering will shake badly once it starts I have to slow down to get it back in control, but it wont do this all the time don’t know what sets it off, starts around 30 mph.
 
Sounds like you have death wobble. This is more common on jeeps etc for some reason. Have you checked aligment? Tire pressure? all TRE and Draglink ends are tight? What size/kind of tire you running and at what pressure? This developed just since you went crossover?
 
RPM said:
I have 1988 Blazer with ORD crossover steering, (10 bolt front) 4” Ezride front springs,
4 inch shackle flip, PCS steering gear, have relocated shock mounts in front using the ford shock mounts and also made some mounts for the rear. I have some questions; first the steering feels real loose (truck slow to respond to input from steering) nothing is loose in front end new ball joints and hub bearings. I also don’t like the way it feels without the sway bar has anyone come up with a sway bar that would work with crossover steering and quick disconnects? What about sway bar in rear? Also steering will shake badly once it starts I have to slow down to get it back in control, but it wont do this all the time don’t know what sets it off, starts around 30 mph.
Click to expand...

Slow response to input could be lack of power assist. Could also be the ratio of your box (I assume you mean PSC :) ) -- is it variable ratio, or fixed?

The shaking could be lots of things, but when I had it it was toe-in. Really, really bad toe-in, and that was after I did it with a tape measure. I ended up going to the alignment place and having them do it.

-- A
 
ok,

lets start from the beginning, whats the caster set at? look for 5-6 degrees

the toe should be set at 1/8 inch toed in

check the u bolts make sure they are tight, i know you checked them well check them again.

verify the shackle bushings thru the frame are good

and check the steering box bolts to make sure they are tight

have someone shake the steering wheel left to right and look at all the tierod ends, the rag joint , the centerlink,

and finally verify the pitman arm from the middle of the sector shaft to the drag link end is the same as from the ball joint on the front axle to the other end of the draglink are the same measurement

please ask as many questions as you like
 
virgilh said:
and finally verify the pitman arm from the middle of the sector shaft to the drag link end is the same as from the ball joint on the front axle to the other end of the draglink are the same measurement
Click to expand...

Drivers side- The measurement from the center of the sector shaft to the DL end at the end of the pitman arm?

Passenger side- The measurment from the ball joint to the pass side DL end?

These two should be the same? I have never heard of this. Any other info on this diagnosis tip you'd like to share?
 
Oh yeah -- Virgil's dead on with caster angle. Mine was up to like 12*, so I shimmed... but do measure.

-- A
 
I can assume your tires are over-sized, 33"-35"s , what about your stablizer? Tires get above 35" they become hard to keep balanced a lot of rubber movi'n there.
 
Do you have the weld in or bolt in steering box brace kit? If not GET ONE of the two ASAP.

Set your toe in to about 3/16".

How many holes do you have in your steering arm on the passenger side not including the bolts for the knuckle? 1 or 2? If 2 which hole is your draglink in? Front (closest to the front bumper) or rear (closest to the axle)?

Are your balljoints, TRE's, etc in good shape?

What size & kind of tires are you running?



A steering system that is in good shape and adjusted correctly should NOT need a steering stabilizer. I have crossover steering on my 10 bolt front with 37" MTR's that are not really balance and are on beat to hell rims. I don't have death wobble or steering problems.

The only time I had death wobble after crossover was when I had my draglink in the rear hole of my steering arm which is the wrong hole. I moved it to the correct front hole and death wobble is gone and has been for years.

Harley
 
buefchris said:
factory stabilizers unnessary?
Click to expand...

cheezburger_410.jpg


Try again, maybe using a complete sentence? :)

-- A
 
dremu said:
Oh yeah -- Virgil's dead on with caster angle. Mine was up to like 12*, so I shimmed... but do measure.

-- A
Click to expand...

Not to hi jack but how/where does one aquire said shims for a 60 front axle? What degree setting is acceptable for caster? Refresh my memory, caster/camber is, from the front of the tuck the tires look like this- \ / or / \ ?
 
Are factory stabilizers unnessary? You had to have that ARE in there to keep from getting confused.:haha:
 
buefchris said:
Are factory stabilizers unnessary? You had to have that ARE in there to keep from getting confused.:haha:
Click to expand...

Ah, NOW it makes sense! :D

The general consensus is that, at least on our lifted/modded trucks, steering stabs are often used to mask other steering problems. As for stock apps, I would say it just makes a truck feel less like a truck -- good for folks who think a Blazer should ride like a Lincoln.

Mudstud, shims are the same for any axle -- they're the width of the spring pack, and bolt in like a zero rate. You might need a longer spring center bolt, same as a zero rate or AAL or whatever.

I got mine from Foothill Offroad 'cuz they're one day away via UPS for me (http://home.foothilloffroad.com/) but most any of our vendors should have them. Stick with the steel ones, IMHO, as the aluminum is just a bit too skinny/weak.

-- A
 
Hossbaby50 said:
Do you have the weld in or bolt in steering box brace kit? If not GET ONE of the two ASAP.

Set your toe in to about 3/16".

How many holes do you have in your steering arm on the passenger side not including the bolts for the knuckle? 1 or 2? If 2 which hole is your draglink in? Front (closest to the front bumper) or rear (closest to the axle)?

Are your balljoints, TRE's, etc in good shape?

What size & kind of tires are you running?

A steering system that is in good shape and adjusted correctly should NOT need a steering stabilizer. I have crossover steering on my 10 bolt front with 37" MTR's that are not really balance and are on beat to hell rims. I don't have death wobble or steering problems.

The only time I had death wobble after crossover was when I had my draglink in the rear hole of my steering arm which is the wrong hole. I moved it to the correct front hole and death wobble is gone and has been for years.

Harley
Click to expand...

All good advice: I have 37" Krawlers, crossover, and hydro assist. No death wobble at all, in fact it will run down the road adhering to all speed limits:rolleyes: I don't have stabilizers either. My toe is set about 1/8 to 3/16 as good as I can tell with a tape. never had it aligned professionally. I am also on a 10 bolt,

Just listen to Harley, He won't steer you wrong.;)
 
Oh those shims. Yea, mine came with the springs from Superlift. I thought you were talkin about shimming behind the spindle.
 
70jimmy said:
All good advice: I have 37" Krawlers, crossover, and hydro assist. No death wobble at all, in fact it will run down the road adhering to all speed limits:rolleyes: I don't have stabilizers either. My toe is set about 1/8 to 3/16 as good as I can tell with a tape. never had it aligned professionally. I am also on a 10 bolt,

Just listen to Harley, He won't steer you wrong.;)
Click to expand...

You don't count though :p: , you have the ultimate steering stabilizer. Hydro assist masks pretty much all DW if you have it. I know your steering system and that it is pretty new so you probably don't have it but if you did I doubt you will ever feel it because the hydro.

Harley
 
31/10.5 R15 BF Gs, no steering gear brace of any kind. Not aligned yet will do that this weekend. Moog ball joints new, only one hole in steering arm. Dont know what it ran like with the old steering, Blazer did not have an engine did all the mods at the same time. guess its not good to do that but had all the parts and easy to work on with no drive train installed. Thanks
 
Get a steering box brace and check your frame for cracks because if you don't have them already you will.

Harley
 
Finally someone wrote with a font large enough for me to read, unfortunately I'm sure the question has been answered by now. :rolleyes:
 
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