NEK5
3/4 ton status
but i have checked all of that and the only thing i can find is play in shaft/box and possibly unbalanced tires
tRustyK5 said:There are a lot of possibilities for wander or sloppy steering. All it takes is a bit of time and a helper and you'll find the problems readily enough.
Chock the wheels, fire the truck up and have your helper move the steering wheel to the right a turn or so, then back left. Watch for flex or other weird movement at the rag joint. Listen for clunks and bangs, they usually indicate either a steering box that is loose or a frame that is cracked.
Now slide under the front of the truck (safely away from the front tires) and watch what the box is doing. At one point I could clearly see my box move...bolts were loose and I later found frame cracks. Now watch the drag link ends as the steering is cycled back and forth. If they're worn you'll see excessive movement. Next is the Tie rod ends...same deal, watch for movement or play that shouldn't be there. Last thing to check is movement at the spring perch. There shouldn't be any...but if you have loose U-bolts or a broken center pin there will be movement or clunking noise or both.
If all that checks out get your helper to help you check the toe-in. All you need is a tape measure...get your helper to hold the dumb end of the tape against the inside of the tire on a good part of the sidewall about halfway up the tire (ahead of the diff). You read the smart end of the tape and write down the measurement. Have your helper hold the tape on the same part of the tire behind the diff while you read the smart end of the tape again. The measurement up front should be between 1/8" and 1/4" smaller than the measurement behind the diff. If it's not within that range you can loosen the adjuster collar bolts and turn the adjuster one direction or the other to get it within range. Make small adjustmants, roll the truck back and forth a ways and re-check.
Now jack up one side of the front so the tire is about an inch or two off the ground. Pull the bottom of the tire towards you...if the ball joints or kingpins are in good shape the tire will not move towards you at all. Any movement down there indicates bad ball joints or king pin issues.
Every area I've mentioned is somewhat common for problems to be found. Very common are frame cracks and loose steering box bolts. Weld in frame repair kits take care of cracked frames, and the bolt in braces help keep them from cracking again as well as firming up the steering by tirangulating the frame in that area.
FWIW I've done all of this to my own truck over the years and although I don't have the double U-joint steering shaft in place (yet) my truck rolls down the highway with little to no wander at all...and i run unbalanced 39.5" bias ply TSL's with a single stock stabilizer.
HTH
Rene
tRustyK5 said:Late 80's or early 90's XJ double U-joint shaft is pretty much a direct bolt in replacement. Certainly no more work than a Borgeson...
Got mine for $15 cdn at the local pick-n-pull.
Rene
BIGBLAZE433 said:thanks.....but wat could be the culprit of my DW....according to my buddys dad (who i fully trust) there was nothing wrong with the balljoints, TREs, and we replaced the drag link because it had alot of play in it. and after we did that my dw went away for a good 2 to 3 weeks and then a week or 2 ago it came back..so i`m really not sure what to think at this point. i didnt see any play in the new draglink since the wobble came back. also when we replaced the draglink and the wobble went away the steering also felt a little better, it didnt swerve as much on the highway and now that the wobbles back, its swerving and wandering again. the only thing i notice is that when i hit a slight big bump in the road or a speed bump i hear a thump/clunk noise coming from what sounds like the front/right of my truck and it swerves off to the right sometime when i go on the highway
....all i need now is a front end alignment and my tires balanced and im set