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Steering wheel keeps changing

P

Pure Insanity

1/2 ton status
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Mar 17, 2001
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Location
Culleoka, Tennessee
About 2-3 weeks ago,I decided to play on a log pile (big pile of telephone poles) we have at the shop, and when I went over it backwards the wheels turned into the log, but the steering wheel didnt pull at all. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif When I went to leave the steering wheel was about 45* off. I changed out the drag link ends and collar (since it was loose and has loosened several times no matter how tight I get it) looked like it may have slipped. Problem seemed solved.

When I hit the RTI ramp the other nite (pics coming soon) my wheel was off some to begin w/, after hitting the ramp my wheel was now straight. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif The way it "should" be. Over the next few days it went back some to where it was.

I have also noticed after running it fairly hard in the mud the wheel would be crooked but straighten itself back out after a few miles.

Now for some answers to some questions I know will be asked...

1) I have 1 small crack in the rail by the box that I know needs to be fixed, but its only about an inch long, has always been there and never gotten bigger. So far so good. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

2) I dont have a steering box brace yet.

3) I am still running the OEM steering set up, havent gone to Xover yet, no need to yet, it steers and handles great. (go figure, 8 inches of lift and just a raised arm, I dont get it either but if it aint broke.... /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif)

4)I have a welded in reciever hitch under the bumper that should have helped some w/ frame strength, but its not behind the box.

Anyone have any idea whats going on? Is the frame tweaking out and returning? What can I do to stop this? Beyond being annoying it worries me.
 
Mine moves around too. I haven't exactly figured out why, but it seems to cure itself over time for the most part. After wheeling it is almost always turned to the left. Sometimes when I bump curbs and stuff too hard it moves too.
 
That happened to me also years ago...72Jimmy...turns out the leaf spring center bolts were loose and bent...

DW /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
 
one of my friends had the same problem in his f250 after hitting a tree with the tire. it was at 10pm and we didn't have a flashlight. turns out he sheered the u bolts off. he found out the next day while driving to the dunes when the truck decided to go toward the ditch /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
What can I do to stop this?

[/ QUOTE ]

Bring it to the Tellico K5 Krawl.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif...I'll fix it for you. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Brandy
 
Loose u-bolts, loose shackles, worn out bushings, worn out TRE's, worn out DRE's, worn out adjuster sleeve, worn out "rag-joint" (flex coupler) on the steering shaft, spring sag/unsag can all contribute to your problem.

I had a major problem trying to keep my wheel straight. Replaced EVERTHING in the front end and still did it. I bought a Borgeson steering shaft with dual u-joints, and have not had a problem since......steering seems much easier/smoother as well.
 
I fixed mine when I installed the ORD steering box brace.
-- Mike
 
ORD Brace pretty well cure it all on mine as well. Check al lthe rivits holding the frame together in the front. If they get loose that causes it as well. Drill the holes out to 1.2 inch and rplace with a grade 8 bolt.
Lay under the truck and have somebody tourn it lock to lock so you can see if the frame and crossmembers are shifting. When you see the frame bend at the box...the ORD brace takes care of that /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
yeah, assuming everything is tightened down to specs... I'd recommend doing the following... one at a time and in order until the problem goes away: 1) weld in + bolt in steering box brace, 2) borgeson steering shaft, 3) x-over (you did say your steering was stock right? /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif)

j
 
Ill check those ASAP, but they should be tight. I only have about 2000 miles since I tore the all suspension apart and did some stuff. Everything was assembled w/ an impact, then went back over it all w/ a breaker bar to be sure it was tight. I did check it a few weeks later and all was still good.

I will be checking again. Thanx! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Thats mostly what I was expecting to hear. The C-channel front rails were not one of GMs brighter moves. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
See thats what gets me is most times it goes to the left. After the RTI ramp, it went right... /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

On the brite side its perfectly centered........for now. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
 
Just replaced all spring center bolts on the last round of mods a few months ago. Not that they cant be broken, but I hope not since theres not many miles really since everything was redone and it hasnt been used too hard yet.
 
Ubolts and shackles are tight, but Ill be rechecking, TREs, DREs, and ball joints all good and tight, adjuster sleeve just replaced a few weeks ago w/ the DREs, Rag joint good too, still sitting at the same height it was a few months ago. Spring bushing are a bit ragged out but not very bad.

I may look into one of the Borgeson shafts tho.
 
I didnt think about the rivits being loose, Ill DEFINATELY have to check those. Would you use case hardened bolts over Gr8? Thats what we always used when we replaced spring hangers on trucks that were wrecked when I was still doing body work. Used CH bolts, crushed lock nuts, and tack welded them, after being run down w/ an impact.

And now that I think about it, I had an F150 I fixed that had a pop in the front suspension that I had to weld the Xmember to the rail.
 
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