Think it should do a gallon in about that time not a pint, stock ones can fill a coffee can faster then that
CK5
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Still fighting the gremlin...
- Thread starter Kp
- Start date
Summit mech fuel pump will do 80 gph thats more then a gallon a minute so two quarts in 30 sec
The Edelbrock 1721 will 110 GPH thats almost 2 GPM
The other thing too is if the pressure is down, which it is, then its going to vapor lock easier too. If its cavitating then it can vapor lock too.
Yeah next step replace the pump my vote would be the 1722 high volume one from Edelbrock or Holley pretty simple they work and don't need a regulator with them. Or even the Summit one cuz its alot cheaper.
Ok, well order of the day is to ditch the electric pump, and try a high flow mech. I will need to buy a new feed line. The one that goes from the mech pump to the carb. I cut the old one when I bypassed the mechanical last time. I wonder if they sell those pre-bent, or if I am going to have to bend my own? I havent been very good at bending that stuff in the past without kinking it.
I have run a 3/8 rubber line from the pump to the carb for years in many different vehicles and never had any issues. You could go get one made at your local House of hose out of high pressure heat resistant stuff or even braided steel.
Here's how I'd check fuel delivery.
Stand on the gas (moving of course) and see if you can get it to falter. If it's fuel delivery, a 454 will starve a Q-jet in fairly short order under WOT load.
Second, when the problem occurs, make sure you are somewhere you can do this: Shut the vehicle off, coast to the side of the road, pop the aircleaner, and work the throttle, while watching the primary venturi's. If gas isn't shooting out, you've got a fuel problem, as the float bowl is empty.
My dad wasted tons of time and money on his truck (assuming vapor lock, fuel pump, etc) only to figure out it was an issue with the float.
Stand on the gas (moving of course) and see if you can get it to falter. If it's fuel delivery, a 454 will starve a Q-jet in fairly short order under WOT load.
Second, when the problem occurs, make sure you are somewhere you can do this: Shut the vehicle off, coast to the side of the road, pop the aircleaner, and work the throttle, while watching the primary venturi's. If gas isn't shooting out, you've got a fuel problem, as the float bowl is empty.
My dad wasted tons of time and money on his truck (assuming vapor lock, fuel pump, etc) only to figure out it was an issue with the float.
New development!
Ok, I hooked the mechanical pump back up, and put on a new 3/8" fuel line from pump to carb, and it looks like the problem is solved!
I can now stand on it all the way thru first, 2nd, and 3rd gear, with no stalling out.
The real test will come this afternoon, when I take a long drive in the 100+ degree arizona heat, and see if it does it then. I have no reason to be optimistic, but I still am!
Wish me luck guys
Ok, I hooked the mechanical pump back up, and put on a new 3/8" fuel line from pump to carb, and it looks like the problem is solved!
I can now stand on it all the way thru first, 2nd, and 3rd gear, with no stalling out.
The real test will come this afternoon, when I take a long drive in the 100+ degree arizona heat, and see if it does it then. I have no reason to be optimistic, but I still am!
Wish me luck guys
good luck 
Well, I took the sub out this weekend for its first real test. A 100 mile round trip to go fishing. The truck preformed flawlessly on the drive to the lake. The weather was unseasonably cool, probably in the 70's at the time we made the drive(dawn).
On the way back however, the truck acted up. We were about 20 miles from home, when it began "missing/stalling/stumbling" whatever you want to call it. I was unable to go faster than about 55 without it acting up. It never actually died, until we turned off the highway, on to our road, about 2 miles from home. Once it died, I was able to restart it immediately, and baby it home the last couple of miles. That drive home was in 100+ degree tepms, and really solidified my belief that this is somehow related to ambient/underhood temps.
I also noticed that when the truck began to sputter, there was a very strong smell of gas. Once the engine smoothed out, the smell went away.
I guess now I am back to thinking it is ignition related?? I honestly don't know. I have been down that road before, which is why I bought the new Summit disty last year.
I think the end may be near for this thing. I hate to admit defeat, but I just don't have the time/moeny/inclination to keep throwing at it. The wife says get rid of it, and I'm afraid she's probably right. If I do, it will bother me for the rest of my life though, wondering what the heck it actually was.
On the way back however, the truck acted up. We were about 20 miles from home, when it began "missing/stalling/stumbling" whatever you want to call it. I was unable to go faster than about 55 without it acting up. It never actually died, until we turned off the highway, on to our road, about 2 miles from home. Once it died, I was able to restart it immediately, and baby it home the last couple of miles. That drive home was in 100+ degree tepms, and really solidified my belief that this is somehow related to ambient/underhood temps.
I also noticed that when the truck began to sputter, there was a very strong smell of gas. Once the engine smoothed out, the smell went away.
I guess now I am back to thinking it is ignition related?? I honestly don't know. I have been down that road before, which is why I bought the new Summit disty last year.
I think the end may be near for this thing. I hate to admit defeat, but I just don't have the time/moeny/inclination to keep throwing at it. The wife says get rid of it, and I'm afraid she's probably right. If I do, it will bother me for the rest of my life though, wondering what the heck it actually was.
How close to heat is the fuel line
Close in several places. The steel line run down the inside of the frame rail, and the truck has dual exhaust all the way back.
Even closer near the engine, where the manifolds are pretty close to the framerails. (its a big block). Then very close where the fuel line goes from the pump to the carb. The stock routing takes it from the fuel pump, between the block and the waterpump, and over the top of the engine to the carb. That was a steel line from the factory, but I have replaced it with 3/8" rubber fuel line, because the steel line is not available anywhere locally. I tried buying a stick of fuel line with fittings and bending it, but just kinked it trying to use my 3 dollar handheld bender.
Even closer near the engine, where the manifolds are pretty close to the framerails. (its a big block). Then very close where the fuel line goes from the pump to the carb. The stock routing takes it from the fuel pump, between the block and the waterpump, and over the top of the engine to the carb. That was a steel line from the factory, but I have replaced it with 3/8" rubber fuel line, because the steel line is not available anywhere locally. I tried buying a stick of fuel line with fittings and bending it, but just kinked it trying to use my 3 dollar handheld bender.
This problem sucks, because it is hard to replicate. I cannot produce the problem in my driveway, or anywhere near home really. When it finally happened yesterday, I had been driving for 45 minutes with no issues before it finally popped up. The day before I had taken a 20 mile round trip to the dump with ZERO issues.
it has to be relatively high heat like the exhaust pipes or something or manifold
so tank is vented
pump is good
is the choke is opening ?
The smell of fuel indicates that its not getting burned ignition would just shut the truck off so really can't be that, it also wouldn't really be hit or miss
although the lack of power could be a cylinder or two that wasn't firing but then why would it work fine then stop then work fine again.
Water in the fuel when was the last fill up and was it good gas ?
I'm guessing that its got filters for the fuel, when you restarted it did it have the same problem or was it good ?
here is my guess for now dirt in the tank or clogged filters
so tank is vented
pump is good
is the choke is opening ?
The smell of fuel indicates that its not getting burned ignition would just shut the truck off so really can't be that, it also wouldn't really be hit or miss
although the lack of power could be a cylinder or two that wasn't firing but then why would it work fine then stop then work fine again.
Water in the fuel when was the last fill up and was it good gas ?
I'm guessing that its got filters for the fuel, when you restarted it did it have the same problem or was it good ?
here is my guess for now dirt in the tank or clogged filters
I had filled it up that morning at Chrevron. The BBC is thirsty, so even though we don't drive it much, the gas doesn't sit for long.
There are now three filters in the fuel line (excluding the sock in the tank, if there is one). The electric FP, that I am still running in conjunction with the mech FP, has a built in filter. I opened it up the other day, and it is BRIGHT white, and shows zero contamination. I also have an inline right before the carb, and I can blow thru it easily. The new carb I just put on has the standard Q-jet inlet filter. It's a week old.
Unless the problem is in the tank, (which I doubt). It is not a filter problem.
I have a brand new ignition module in the glove box. Maybe I'll put that in. I guess I'll pull the plugs and check the gap. I pulled one the other day to look at it, and it looked dry and kinda brown, but I didn't gap it because i couldn't find my gauge set. I'll make the effort and set all the gaps at .045. I can build a tin sheild shaped like ] to put on the framerail to sheild the fuel lines from heat, but not sure how I would protect the line going to the carb unless I completely rerouted and went up the firewall maybe? Seems unneccessary since Id have to back track from the pump to the firewall, right back down the framerail.
There are now three filters in the fuel line (excluding the sock in the tank, if there is one). The electric FP, that I am still running in conjunction with the mech FP, has a built in filter. I opened it up the other day, and it is BRIGHT white, and shows zero contamination. I also have an inline right before the carb, and I can blow thru it easily. The new carb I just put on has the standard Q-jet inlet filter. It's a week old.
Unless the problem is in the tank, (which I doubt). It is not a filter problem.
I have a brand new ignition module in the glove box. Maybe I'll put that in. I guess I'll pull the plugs and check the gap. I pulled one the other day to look at it, and it looked dry and kinda brown, but I didn't gap it because i couldn't find my gauge set. I'll make the effort and set all the gaps at .045. I can build a tin sheild shaped like ] to put on the framerail to sheild the fuel lines from heat, but not sure how I would protect the line going to the carb unless I completely rerouted and went up the firewall maybe? Seems unneccessary since Id have to back track from the pump to the firewall, right back down the framerail.
ok so my guess isn't it, there would be some dirt if there was dirt in the tank
you might want to reroute the line to the carb but not on the firewall I usually run them around the alternator if that makes any sense, but then again the stock one ran between the water pump and it worked for the factory.
