still no chargy chargy (alt/charging issue)

[big_truxx]

still having no luck with my alt probs. put a new alt in 3 different times and now have an ac elco 94 amp. tested this that and the other. found no draw on battery, found alt charges when idling but not above idle very small continous voltage drop. also if idling with any acc on (lights wipers etc) small continous drop. have looked at and taken off and put back on various grounds and all all with no luck. when i replaced the alt with a bad bearing it was working fine lol just squealing... so that makes me feel this is bazzar. I am planning on getting a one wire alt from summit in the 100 ampo flavor and am pretty sure that will at least give me fully charged batteries lol save me from plugging in the slow charger every night lol also may get a 6.5 gear reduction starter fopr it someday when money allows and hopefully be easier on the batts when starting. i know that the 6.2 starter is hard on sucking major juice even with the 2 batts currently in there!!!

so if anyone has any insight post up. i am curious to find a solution for this issue. i am fairly sure the opne wire will make it all go away but what caused this in a normal stock setup??

 

[dyeager535]

If three alts didn't solve your problem, especially with a Delco, I think you've got a problem somewhere else.

You've tested alternator output with a voltmeter to the back of the alternator on the single ring terminal connector when its running, with load, and at various RPM's? That'd be my first test, as nothing in the truck will interfere or skew the readings of what is coming off of that connector voltage-wise.

I see your other post, but I don't see wher eyou specifically answered that you had done the testing that was recommended, one of which is what I say above.

You also said the grounds "look" good. Unless you disconnected all of them, that's not a good answer. Pull them, test them, clean them. You will NEVER hurt anything by pulling the grounds and making sure they are in excellent shape. Many electrical problems on these trucks are simply because of bad/damaged grounds.

 

[azblazer]

I find putting the ground cable once itscleaned and passed the ohm test works better on these K5's if put directly to the engine block.

Also the two wires to the alt are really simple. Brown wire is keyed power...use a dvom and not a test light...do you have batt voltage
at the brown wire? If not there's your problem....even low voltage there
will cause issues.

DW

 

[big_truxx]

i do not recall what tests but i think i tested at back of the alt. i am so busy. as everyone notices from my lack of posts lol leave for work in cold and dark get home in cold and dark. i am less moptivated to do anything now than ever as i do not have a garage and it really sucks in the cold and dark weather outside but i am now using a multi-meter i broke down and bought one lol and have tested batteries to see if they hol;d a charge and also the charging when idling and above idle and with idle and acc on. only idle w/o anything on charges. and i have taken off and at least attempted to shine up 2 ground wiores so far. one the one on the alt bracket that goes to the batt... which i would think if that was good that it should charge iof there was a gorund problem.... and the headlight one on the pass side. but this was charging fine with an old alt w/ going bearings before i took it out before cold weather lol thats what i get for trying to do sensible things!!!

 

[89GMCSuburban]

Ok...what makes an alternator charge? The alternator requires voltage feedback for the regulator to decide how much to charge your system. So, if you have LOW voltage going to the back of the alternator, the regulator will up the charging...so LOW voltage/grounded wire at the sensor end of the regulator on the back of the alternator will make it OVERCHARGE.

Check to make sure the thing is grounding to the block, and get your battery tested.

 

[big_truxx]

once again I have run tests on the truck. this time i tested batteries after charging, tested resistance in wires, grounds included, tested the battery draw again and it turned up zero again. everything looks good until the engine is above idle then it drops voltage again. and at idle with acc on it drops too. weirdest thing though last night with lights and radio and heater on it was charging (according to gage) up a lil past 13v. only did it that one time i was driving it. and also it now is runniong a one wire alt i bought from summit. all new parts. nice and shiny chrome too but still somethings not right.

I am wondering if there is something in the starter that goes that could cause this? I looked at a tag and saw 28mt on the starter. so it would appear it is the good one not the old 6.2 type.

 

[muddybuddy]

new alt belt? i had an old one on mine and i kept goin through everlast batteriers every couple days (3year free replacement at walmart, so it was no biggie jus inconvient). i slapped on a new serp belt for the alternator and boom everything was fine

 

[Blazr77400]

Try running a 10 guage wire from the alternator directly to the battery. This has helped on both of my trucks. This way the alternator doesn't have to send power down to the starter then back up to the battery. Also check the power wire from the starter up to the fusible link on the firewall.
When I was having trouble with my alternator, the guy that helped me fix it told me the belt should be tight enough that you could put a wrench on the alternator nut and turn the motor over with the belt.

 

[big_truxx]

has had new alt belt for a while now.

 

[big_truxx]

I am running a one wire alt from summit. and i do have a bigger than 10 gauge wire directly to battery. and it has no resistance.


also latest update is on this trip to the farm it was charging fine... lol with acc on just to make sure....

Is there something in a starter that can go that may cause a sometimes charge sometimes no charge situation??

 

[dyeager535]

Is there something in a starter that can go that may cause a sometimes charge sometimes no charge situation??

No. The connections are external of the starter solenoid.

Bad connection there is possible of course, but it won't be the starters fault.

 

[big_truxx]

No. The connections are external of the starter solenoid.

Bad connection there is possible of course, but it won't be the starters fault.

ok also i forgot to mention that after shutting it off and shopping at walmart one niught i came out to start it and it wasnt cold obviously since it was driven prior to shoppiong lol anyway it was crankingover slower than i think it should and cranked and cranked but no start. so i let off for 10-15 sec and tried again. 4-5 times of the same. the 6th time it cranked like a mad banshee and 1.5 sec of cranking it was started... this is why i am asking about the starter.

it also makes no sense that with a one wire alt i am still haviong the same prob oi was.

i have the one wire connected directly from the back of the alt post, the other wire connected to the post cuz when i tried disconnecting that one it would not start so i assumed that was the wire that gave juice to the injectors and said that it will start lol i just left the 2 wire plug sittin around since i do not want to cut things. is there a wrong way to connect a one wire alt?

 

[diesel4me]

New cables...

I'd guess one or both battery cables are all gangrene at some point along their length somewhere..sometimes they connect good,and it cranks and charges ok--other times the high resistance wont let the amps flow to the starter or back to the battery..they can look perfect on the outside--but I've cut some apart with a razor,and nothing but green dust was inside at one spot on more than a few I "autopsied"..the owners had bought new batteries,altenators,starters,for nothing--it was junk CABLES all along causing the problems..

If they are original,or wimpy 4 gauge ones,I'd put 2 new 2 gauge cables on it,( don't buy the cheap ones at Wal-Mart-!)--and add another ground cable from the altenator bracket to the frame (and sand it shiny first)....

If you already put new cables on,then I'd guess fusible links or partialy shorted wires somewhere..

 

[big_truxx]

i do have new cables from advanced auto but i have tested the cables there (all except for the big one going directly to the starter) and there was no resistance... so id guess them fine but it doesnt hurt to change them i spose.

 

[nstarry]

I had a rig that did that and it was the block to frame/ body ground charge great at idle but when you hit the gas bam drop right of the gage! figured that out after a whole new charging system

 

[diesel4me]

only 1 wire left!

If your new "one wire" altenator only needs the "big red" 10 ga. wire,I'd make sure that wire isn't gangrene somewhere too..along with ALL the "big red" wires going to the fusible links,and the junction block near the brake booster..adding some ground wires wont hurt any either..we had a dodge van in my shop that only charged when it felt like it--despite brand new battery cables and a good ground strap,I could only get it to charge when I hooked a wire directly from the altenator case to the negative battery cable!--its burned up a 12 ga. wire twice now at night..

I've cleaned and filed the ground connections, and added 2 ground straps from the body to frame and motor to body..so far the last wire I put on (a 10 ga.!) hasn't burned yet..I'm still dreading a phone call at 2 am though..the guy who owns it delivers newspapers...