My local Case IH dealer has really good hardware selection.
Martin
Martin
CK5
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Stock or 2in Lift Suspension Suggestions
- Thread starter green55
- Start date
nitro_rat
1/2 ton status
Fastenal has quit selling hardware individually. You have to buy in bulk, like 100 or more at a time. They only want to sell to big businesses, not the little guy anymore.
Damn that's too bad, haven't been there for years. They used to sell 5 and/or 10 packs, which was perfect.
Struck out at Tractor Supply. In this case, I was able to find the bolts I needed in 5 packs from Fastenal, so it ended up working out for me. They also apparently have 24/7 accessible lockers outside their offices they'll put your order in, so that's nice. Hopefully they fill it today and I'll be able to go pick up. I really appreciate all the suggestions, gives me way more places to look next time.
Another question: are the rear springs reversible? I haven't measured, but looks like they're the same length on both halves. Only thing that looks different is that one side has a bracket on the spring.
Another question: are the rear springs reversible? I haven't measured, but looks like they're the same length on both halves. Only thing that looks different is that one side has a bracket on the spring.
The clamp probably goes towards the front, of course the easy way to tell would be to measure from the center of the spring eye to the center pin, and see if it's the same.
52" rear 1/2 and light 3/4 ton = same end to center . i tend to install clamp to front .
the 56" rear is +4" longer out the back end .
the 56" rear is +4" longer out the back end .
Stuck on the last thing I have to get out. The passenger rear upper shock mount. I can't figure out how to get a wrench, socket, impact, anything on it well enough to have room to get it out. There just doesn't seem to be enough room to rotate with the gas tank in. And even if I get the bolt out, not sure how I'll get the new upper bolt torqued to spec with no room.
My "worst case scenario" plan is to put everything back together with the new parts and just not have a shock in the passenger rear. Then get it towed to a shop to do that last shock. I figure the shocks don't support any weight anyways, so it should be fine. And it was basically riding with no shocks before because they were so shot. I also need to take it to a shop anyways for other issues that are above my pay grade and get it inspected -- I was going to get them to check out all the suspension work I did to make sure its all good to go. That being said, I'd really like to finish it myself because I feel like I'm close.
The old shock's bushing was so worn it basically just fell off when I was messing with it, so this is how it sits.
Also an update on the Fastenal bolts -- order still hasn't been filled and nobody will answer the phone, so maybe that wasn't the way to go lol. Going by in the morning to see if I can get somebody to do something.
My "worst case scenario" plan is to put everything back together with the new parts and just not have a shock in the passenger rear. Then get it towed to a shop to do that last shock. I figure the shocks don't support any weight anyways, so it should be fine. And it was basically riding with no shocks before because they were so shot. I also need to take it to a shop anyways for other issues that are above my pay grade and get it inspected -- I was going to get them to check out all the suspension work I did to make sure its all good to go. That being said, I'd really like to finish it myself because I feel like I'm close.
The old shock's bushing was so worn it basically just fell off when I was messing with it, so this is how it sits.
Also an update on the Fastenal bolts -- order still hasn't been filled and nobody will answer the phone, so maybe that wasn't the way to go lol. Going by in the morning to see if I can get somebody to do something.
Your picture is of the driver side rear, correct?
Do you need to pull that stud for the new shocks? If it's tight, maybe you can reuse it?
Around here, I wouldn't tow it for missing rear shocks, just drive carefully because of extra bounce. Heck, I have driven one to the exhaust shop with no mufflers here.
Yeah I don't know why I kept saying passenger rear lol its drivers side 
. Yeah, I guess I could just pick a place close by and drive it there too. I get free tows with AAA, but probably shouldn't be using them up if not needed.
I appreciate the idea of reusing the stud. The new shock I have has that same stud inserted into it, so I'd have to take that out and hope the bushing fits tightly on this old one. Maybe I'll do that, I'll think about it.
. Yeah, I guess I could just pick a place close by and drive it there too. I get free tows with AAA, but probably shouldn't be using them up if not needed.I appreciate the idea of reusing the stud. The new shock I have has that same stud inserted into it, so I'd have to take that out and hope the bushing fits tightly on this old one. Maybe I'll do that, I'll think about it.
is there something wrong with that upper bolt? Most just reuse it.
Some use this to add strength. https://www.offroaddesign.com/rear-...87-91-k5-blazer-jimmy-k10-and-k20-pickup.html
Some use this to add strength. https://www.offroaddesign.com/rear-...87-91-k5-blazer-jimmy-k10-and-k20-pickup.html
Nothing nothing necessarily wrong with it. But the bilstein one I’m putting in is def different. Now that I look at the bilstein one, I’m actually not sure how I’d get that out to use the old bolt that’s in the frame
Most new shocks don't have the upper hardware fastened perm.
If you sit in front of the rear axle looking between the body floor and the gas tank, you should be able to see the back of the shock mount. Depending on your tools you might be able to undo the current mount and in stall the new.
If you sit in front of the rear axle looking between the body floor and the gas tank, you should be able to see the back of the shock mount. Depending on your tools you might be able to undo the current mount and in stall the new.
You don’t need to torque a shock bolt.
I had never even heard of someone torquing a shock bolt till you mentioned it.
I would just reuse the existing stud instead of fighting it.
Martin
I had never even heard of someone torquing a shock bolt till you mentioned it.
I would just reuse the existing stud instead of fighting it.
Martin
doesn't matter on the bushing. You do want the open side of shackle towards the spring.
Alright y’all, I think the saga is finally over. Found a couple hours to put the rear back together last night. Have driven about 40 miles to test things out. Retorqued everything after that because from what I understand, I’m supposed to do that every 50-100 miles til it stops loosening. Only thing that needed tightening was the rear u bolts. So I’ll just keep checking in on those til they stay tight. Also feel like I need to get an alignment done, not sure if thats true…
Ride is WAY different. I didn’t know it could feel this smooth. Not as good as my stock 08 Sierra, but honestly not far off either. I know I should like it and I think I’ll get used to it, but it’s always felt like an old worn out truck so that nostalgia is kinda gone. It’ll be much more comfortable on longer trips I’m hoping to take it on though.
On the plus side, got rid of every vibration and noise I was aware of too, which I’m very pumped about. I thought a couple of them were going to be expensive repairs but I decided to do the suspension just in case it being so beat was causing it. No more driveline vibs under seat, no more intense vibs at 25-35 that I thought was the torque converter, rear window even stopped rattling.
Overall, glad I did it. The suspension was dead, potentially dangerous, and actively breaking other things, so needed to do something. I like the way it looks, but a lift may come back eventually, just done right. Or zero rates, who knows. It did turn out pretty level front to back at least.
Thanks y’all for all the help, couldn’t have done it without you. Hopefully this long thread will help out some other newb.
Ride is WAY different. I didn’t know it could feel this smooth. Not as good as my stock 08 Sierra, but honestly not far off either. I know I should like it and I think I’ll get used to it, but it’s always felt like an old worn out truck so that nostalgia is kinda gone. It’ll be much more comfortable on longer trips I’m hoping to take it on though.
On the plus side, got rid of every vibration and noise I was aware of too, which I’m very pumped about. I thought a couple of them were going to be expensive repairs but I decided to do the suspension just in case it being so beat was causing it. No more driveline vibs under seat, no more intense vibs at 25-35 that I thought was the torque converter, rear window even stopped rattling.
Overall, glad I did it. The suspension was dead, potentially dangerous, and actively breaking other things, so needed to do something. I like the way it looks, but a lift may come back eventually, just done right. Or zero rates, who knows. It did turn out pretty level front to back at least.
Thanks y’all for all the help, couldn’t have done it without you. Hopefully this long thread will help out some other newb.
Looks great!
Martin
Martin
yep good looking truck, glad your happy with it. Enjoy
