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Stock or 2in Lift Suspension Suggestions

green55

green55

1/2 ton status
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I currently have a 4in suspension lift on an 89 Jimmy. Ride quality is horrible, always has been since the lift was put on. I think it may have been some kind of add-a-leaf kit, not really sure. Its been on the truck for 15-20 years. I also have issues with the u-joints on my drive shaft wearing out prematurely. I assume because of driveline angles. I've actually had it fall out of the truck before while driving.

So, between the ride quality, drive shaft issues, and the fact that I'll be driving it on the road 95% of the time with no heavy off road use, I'm looking to downsize my lift. I'm not sure where I can source stock suspension components if that's the route I decide to go. Any ideas? What are the best lift kits out there? Seems a lot of people suggest ORD if you have the money and Tuff Country if you're balling on a budget.

I'm also currently running 33x12.5x15 BFG and have always had issues with rubbing, even with a 4in lift. I've seen the How will my k5/truck look with xx" tires on xx" lift thread. I don't understand how I have rubbing issues when many people there have 2in lift or even stock suspension with 33s. Any idea why I may have issues with rubbing? And what tire size would go well with stock or 2in lift? I'm looking for a "beefy" look that really fills the wheel wells, but don't want to deal with rubbing or trimming/hacking of fenders.
 
I had stock springs and 33s when first purchased. It only rubbed on hard l or r turns into a driveway under normal street use.
 
frankin5 said:
I had stock springs and 33s when first purchased. It only rubbed on hard l or r turns into a driveway under normal street use.
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Do you remember if they were 33x12.5 or 33x10.5? I'm hoping I could get away with 33s on a 2in lift or stock if I reduce the width from 12.5 => 10.5. Or go with 32x11.5.
 
It's probably your wheels if you are running with a lift and 33x12.5.

Stock wheels, 33x10.5s, no lift, have never rubbed (up front) in something like 20 years. Rears rubbed the tub if one side was really stuffed in there, but who cares, no sharp angles to catch, and it took a lot of compression to get there. Doesn't rub in the rear now either, since I have a wider rear axle. But the front is the normal place most have problems.

More width makes the tire "longer" in relation to the wheel well when turned, compared to a narrower tire.
 
Good info dyeager. Yeah I don't have stock wheels on it now. I think they're 10in instead of 8in, but not 100% on that. Luckily, I do have a the original stock wheels, so I can switch back when I change tires/reduce lift.

I actually emailed ORD after posting here and they said that they don't offer stock springs because stock rides worse than 2in lift. They said less room for movement on the stock springs before hitting the bump stops, if I understood correctly.

So, I'm thinking a 2in lift with 33x10.5 on the original 8in wheels might be the way to go. That may actually work out well, because I'll probably need tires before I mess with the lift, so it having tires that fit and look good with both the 4in & 2in lift would be ideal.

Other than ORD, what suspension lifts are good? Like I mentioned above, sounded like Tuff Country was second in line?
 
Good stuff. I'll just go with whatever I can get the best deal on between those 3. Should I get shocks separately to make sure they're high quality as well or just go with the ones you can get directly from TC/BDS?

Any recommendations on shocks?
 
I think the BDS 2.5" lift is not regular stock any longer due to low demand. BDS actually stopped offering the 2.5"the kit for a short while, but now are offering it again as special order with 4 week time frame. I spoke with BDS directly in Canada and this was about last summer.
 
Not to take away from anyone, this is just my opinion.

I like the look of full wheelwells. 33's do a good job filling the wheelwells at stock height. I don't like the look with a lift on 33's because to me it looks like 31's and no lift...a bunch of empty wheelwell. 35's and a small lift? Not bad.

Other issue with the 33x10.5s is I think BFG is the only company making AT's in that size. If you don't like their offerings, have to go to another tire size.

You could always add a lift later if you decide you want one, or for some reason need it. Not much going back if you buy the wrong tires.
 
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dyeager535 said:
Other issue with the 33x10.5s is I think BFG is the only company making AT's in that size. If you don't like their offerings, have to go to another tire size.
Click to expand...

you can get a General Grabber X3 or Toyo Open Country M/T or Dick Cepek Extreme Country in that size although they are a little more aggressive than an AT
 
Dyeager I also like full wheelwells. Right now mine aren’t at all with a 4in lift & 33s. I’ll post a picture later when I’m near my truck. And don’t worry about throwing out opinions! That’s what I’m asking for lol

I’m cool with BFG ATs, it’s what I’d probably get anyways, regardless of size.

I’m def worried I’ll end up with tires that won’t fit my eventual suspension height or vice versa. I’m trying to avoid rubbing as much as possible while filling up the wheel well as much as possible and not trimming/cutting anything. That’s what I’m looking for guidance on here for, to try to make sure everything works well together on the first go.
 
Thanks I’ll check out what he has. This is what my truck looks like now. I’d prefer the wheel wells to be more full. I like a “beefy” look without a big lift. I don't get how I rub with 33x12.5 with a 4in lift and other people can almost run that stock :thinking:

IMG_7480.jpg
 
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I had a set of Tuff country EZ ride springs on my '70 Chevy which has slightly shorter length front springs from your '89. It was horrible!! When I finally spent the money for custom springs from ORD, it was a huge difference. There is no way to describe it, you would have to experience it! The improvement was amazing!

I have had 33's on a stock '90 Jimmy without issues, so I would go for a 2" lift from ORD. It should also help with the driveshaft angle by dropping down some.
This was stock springs with 33's, 15x8 wheels.

IMG950180.jpg
 
Measure from top of axle tube to metal mount the front bump stop bolts to on the frame . And post up some pics of rear springs / u-bolt area and same for front and a long shot of the whole front spring to show the arch.
 
@fourwheelerjeff crazy how different people have different experiences with the same stuff. I’ve seen a good number of people on the forum that say it rides like a dream with TC ez, but then other people had the complete opposite experience!

@sweetk30 I’ll try to get those pics tomorrow.

thanks for the help y’all!
 
Perspective is huge with many things that are open to personal experience. If someone could step out of a truck with one set of springs into another with a different set, and then run the same course in succession, then it is easier to feel the difference, if it is there. Side by side comparison would be great !
 
I ran 33 12.5 16.5s on k20 burb with tuff country2" lift, 10" wheels, had a little rub at lower front corner and rear inner. I trimmed the front corners. Fixed most of the rub rear wasn't bad enough to worry about. The ride was very good, my Dad commented on how smooth it was basting down a dirt trail to his fishing hole. wish i still had that truck. Like picture, different truck. that is 4" saggy 20 year old unknown brand with 285 75r16 on 6.5" wide wheels rubs on drag link sharp right turn.

no matter which springs you get invest in bilstiens from ORD. This is an upgrade on my list, once I get my spring bushings refreshed and rear shackle flip.

fendertrim.jpg
 
sweetk30 said:
BDS / tuff country there about the average top 2 off the shelf nice ride springs over the years . skyjacker soft ride is good also .
Click to expand...

x2 on the Skyjacker. I have skyjacker add a leafs all the way around and Monroe load sensing coil over shocks and the ride on my 77 Jimmy is great. I still feel bumps, but its only 1 bounce. Not 10. I'm pushing 6400 lbs and my ride is WAY better than our 2015 Ford f250 service truck at work.

Joel
norcal
 
If goind add-a-leaf on STOCK front tappered leafs make sure the add-a-leaf kit is for tappered leaf . Most kits are NOT as there for std leaf .

Tappered works more the more weight on it and the more its flexed.

Std springs work the same over the length of the spring . They get there capacity from no. of leafs to add up .

Yes people do mix and it works but not the best option .
 
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