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Story of two '72 K5's build

:(:( pretty sad.

y5 is correct though, everything must come to an end sometime.

Those are some nice new shoes for the new ride.:waytogo:

I thought at one time you bought some KM2's for the old frame, maybe I'm wrong tho..:dunno:
 
NorCal69 said:
:(:( pretty sad.

y5 is correct though, everything must come to an end sometime.

Those are some nice new shoes for the new ride.:waytogo:

I thought at one time you bought some KM2's for the old frame, maybe I'm wrong tho..:dunno:
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I had placed the order with 4wheelparts.com, but at the time KM2's were on a huge backorder everywhere, so i eventualy just canceled the order.
 
please tell me there wasn't a good windshield frame on that tub...:doah:

On a lighter note, congrats on the new ride and making good progress on it!
 
scottishdave said:
Ok...So i see all the time some people with thier shocks the normal way and some people run them upside down. Is thier any benifit to either way? Or is it dependant on the shock. Mine are the Bilstien 5100's.
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Twin tube shocks must be mounted body down or they don't work. Monotube shocks can be mounted either way. Body up is most common for monotubes.

Shock boots aren't a bad idea with them mounted body up as it'll keep the rocks/gravel/debris from chipping away at the chrome, but it'd be smart to enlarge the drains so they don't easily fill with mud.

Rene
 
I didn't even realize the tub was for sale? Did you post it somewhere around here, or just locally?

:usaflag:
 
Z71paramedic said:
please tell me there wasn't a good windshield frame on that tub...:doah:

On a lighter note, congrats on the new ride and making good progress on it!
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:whistle:

tRustyK5 said:
Twin tube shocks must be mounted body down or they don't work. Monotube shocks can be mounted either way. Body up is most common for monotubes.

Shock boots aren't a bad idea with them mounted body up as it'll keep the rocks/gravel/debris from chipping away at the chrome, but it'd be smart to enlarge the drains so they don't easily fill with mud.

Rene
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, sums it all up right there.:waytogo:

Greg72 said:
I didn't even realize the tub was for sale? Did you post it somewhere around here, or just locally?

:usaflag:
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It was in about 12 craiglists throughout NC, VA and SC. Local yard sales websites, 2 local 4x4 forums, CK5...and maybe somewhere else.

I really really really, did not want it to go this way. But i had to get it out of here but i never got a single inquiry about it or even a lowball offer. Hell i would have taken 50 bucks rather than sell it for scrap for 120 just so it went to a good home, but thats life i guess.
NorCal69 said:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=287320

I found it yesterday after the junk yard pic.
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Yeah...

I do still have 2 brand new LMC fender well tubs, 2 doors, 2 NICE fenders, a rust free hood, kinda twisted/hacked frame, factory seats, factory steering column, factory center consol, etc...Will be posting it someday soon
 
:doah: That makes me a sad ck5'er.... I need a windshield frame bad and haven't been able to find one. I'd have given you $300 for just that....

Oh well. If you find another one let me know:haha::haha:
 
Got home today and that amazing guy we all love, MR. UPS was kind enough to leave me some of this and 4 of these. The Iron and Steel version of RYOKEN GREEN, which turns out is RYOKEN GRAY. And 12" travel bilstiens.
IMG_3121.jpg

IMG_3120.jpg

So i said what the hell, Its the south, its Hott and humid as can be, lets try get the rear end lifted before dark....didnt happen, ended up pissing off the neighbors until about 9:30. Forgot that its a bad idea to fill up before you go and drop your tank:doah::doah: and re-learned how bad i hate busting off rivets.
dgdfgdfgdfg-1.jpg

sfsdfdsfs-1.jpg

Wire wheeled to frame and 12-bolt to steel, then ryoken grayed it, then painted it. Turns out that beneath the grime my 12-bolt had a bad arse diff cover that looks alot like the diy4x one i had for my old 14bolt. So, nice score on that one.

ORD flip with the long ORD shackles, 56" springs out of a 3/4 burban, DIY4x u-bolt reversal plates, and an exhuast that is in the way of absolutely everything right now.:doah: Sitting on the 32" muds it had on when i bought her.

IMG_3118.jpg

IMG_3119.jpg

IMG_3117.jpg

IMG_3116.jpg
 
I dig the stinkbug look! :D

The Moeller stuff comes in two versions....looks like you got the cold galvanizing one instead of the chromate one. Ryoken will have to comment on whether that ultimately matters much...

I've got a full 21 gallon tank of "varnish" sitting in my shop too! Thought the tank was empty when I pulled it three years ago..... Not even close.


:usaflag:
 
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Greg72 said:
I dig the stinkbug look! :D

The Moeller stuff comes in two versions....looks like you got the cold galvanizing one intend of the chromate one. Ryoken will have to comment on whether that ultimately matters much...

I've got a full 21 gallon tank of "varnish" sitting in my shop too! Thought the tank was empty when I pulled it three years ago..... Not even close.


:usaflag:
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Damn i followed the link you posted to the site you buy it from. I was about to order the regular stuff, when i read it was for aluminum marine use, and right under it, there was iron/steel marine use, so i got that instead.
 
I would just try to run a scuffpad over the galvanized stuff before douching it with paint... same as you would the green...

I use that fairly frequently, but on boat trailers that i've had to weld, etc, and i don't paint over it.. I'm sure it'll be fine for a frame and such at least..

I honestly can't testify to how it would be under a regular topcoating system of fill prime, paint, etc on the exterior... I wouldn't run it on exterior sheetmetal if i could help it... just cuz I couldn't be certain of long term use on a body panel...

nice shocks btw...
 
scottishdave said:
Damn i followed the link you posted to the site you buy it from. I was about to order the regular stuff, when i read it was for aluminum marine use, and right under it, there was iron/steel marine use, so i got that instead.
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Yeah, I got spooked by that too....but I just took a chance and I ended up with the right stuff.

Here's a clip from my original confirmation email from Wholesale Marine:

Moeller Motor Spray Primer - Zinc Chromate
SKU: MOE-025472

$9.21 per can (in 2009)


Sorry for the confusion. If you send me a link to that old thread I will update it with the complete SKU number. :deal:


:usaflag:
 
Been finding a lot of small details i dont like, some of the wiring was cooky, and a re-did all of the soft fuel lines. I started getting into my mood of trying to work work work as fast as i can, but got ahold of myself and slowed down. Going to take my time, and attend to little things that are much easier with certain things like "front ends" out of the way, etc... Probably be a week before she is on the road again. But here is how she sits after thismorning.

Fuel tank back in, messed with the brakes for ever trying to figure a solution to that problem. Then pulled the from end and went inside before the heat showed up. Probably just wire wheel the D44 and frame a bit, but thats probably it until monday.

IMG_3125.JPG
 
Oh...and changing the front brake lines with the axle, engine and especialy headers in the way= hours of time. If my hands were a bit bigger it wouldnt have worked. I bairly squuezed the line wrench in there and made about 1/16th of a turn each time and had to reset. Thank god those little brass fittings didnt decide to stick or strip, then i would have been SOL for sure.
 
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