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Stranded for the first time

J

joshkbomb

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Dec 18, 2003
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Location
Lafayette, CO
I've daily driven my '87 Blazer (put 18K miles on it this year) for 6 1/2 years and it's never left me stranded until tonight. Came out of a Christmas party and the truck didn't start. Headlights came on, battery seemed good, but when the key was turned there was absolutely nothing happening except for dash lights coming on. I tried jumping it anyway, but it didn't help. It was too cold (single digits where the truck is in Boulder, CO) and dark to troubleshoot so I got a ride home from my dad.

Anybody have any idea what could be the cause? I have a few theories:
My dad thinks it's the ignition switch but I've never had any problems with it before.
Maybe a blown fuse?
Something cold related like frozen fuel lines or electrical contacts somewhere that contracted a bit too much. Neither of these has ever happened before, so I'm skeptical.

Mainly I'm disappointed I can't tell people anymore that my 23 year old Chevy has never left me stranded.:( Although it still holds status as the most reliable vehicle I've ever had.:waytogo:

Anybody know if AAA is even open on Christmas so I can get it towed?
 
To test the ignition switch, jump the terminals on the starter. I would bet it is a bad starter, at least based on the description. You can also try having someone turn the key, and tapping the side of the starter with a hammer. This will occasionally get the starter to move past a bad spot on the comm and engage. It doesn't always work, but your description makes me think starter way before ignition switch.
 
Don't starters usually give warning signs before dying? Mine has been working fine. It would be nice if it was the starter though, because I think that would be pretty easy to replace.

I'll add your tests to the list of things to investigate before calling the tow truck, thanks!
 
Not always! I have had starters that worked fine to get me to my buddy's shop, then when I went to start it to move it inside the starter wouldn't work. There was no warning, one minute it worked normally the next it didn't. Keep in mind, it could be as simple as a worn out solenoid, dirty comm, or a burnt connection/armature. Any of these could have happened and not given you any warning.
 
Just for S&G, tap on it with a small hammer, very lightly. It may be enough to free it up and get you home to replace it.
 
When it gets below zero, a few of my trucks keyeded ignitions were hard to activate( was it harder to turn the key?) As best I could tell the dielectric grease in the switch at the base of the column has frozen/hardened and the deflection in the rod was egnough to not let the points make contact in the start position. I put a space heater on the driver floorboard for about ten minutes and Voila! Bring a can of ether so that your not just cranking away wearing down the battery. But I'm in tropical SOUTH Dakota, so what do I know about cold:(


Good luck and Merry Christmas!
 
In response to the space heater suggestion: I used to use a spotlight aimed toward the windows to melt ice and such. Might try that to thaw if you don't have access to a space heater or power for one. You could try a 12 volt if you have power or a cordless. Good luck!
 
I tightened the battery cable and it started right up.
I guess the cable was tight enough to run the headlights and dash lights, but too loose to run the starter. If that's even possible. I was banging on the starter before I tightened the cable and it didn't start, but it could have been a combination of the two. I'm probably going to have to get the starter checked out now just to make sure though.

What contacts am I supposed to jump to get the starter to engage (for future reference)? Off the solenoid there was a terminal with red wires going to it, do I just short that to a ground?
 
77 did that, only time it left me stranded. Everything worked fine, at a buddys, fifteen minutes later went to leave, wouldnt start. walked to one of my dads buddys hosues to bum a ride, he dropped me off at truck "just to try it agian" and it fired right up, about half an hour later. it was the starter, and i dont think the loose battery cable is the culprit, seems like its just a chance thing to me, but ya never know.
 
joshkbomb said:
I tightened the battery cable and it started right up.
I guess the cable was tight enough to run the headlights and dash lights, but too loose to run the starter. If that's even possible. I was banging on the starter before I tightened the cable and it didn't start, but it could have been a combination of the two. I'm probably going to have to get the starter checked out now just to make sure though.

What contacts am I supposed to jump to get the starter to engage (for future reference)? Off the solenoid there was a terminal with red wires going to it, do I just short that to a ground?
Click to expand...

No, dont ground it out.
There should be three posts coming off the solenoid. Its the top one, and then one of the bottom two. I think the one closest to the block.
To be honest, i just put the screw driver down there and start moving it around to i hit it, hahaha.

***If this is a manual, make sure your in neutral because this is a real good way to get yourself run the F over***
 
Easiest way to engage the starter is to find the big purple wire on the firewall and skin a little insulation back, then run a wire from + battery and just touch the purple wire. That will engage the starter. Lots cleaner and safer than shorting the solenoid. That's how I remote start my K5. I leave a switch hooked up for those times I'm working under the hood.
 
I'd bet it's just the battery cable. Used to happen to me all the time when I was just starting to play mechanic :doah:If the connection is poor, it will give you great power for low-draw stuff like lights and heater, but not enough to spin the starter. You'll hear the solenoid click, but no cranky.

#1 Universal Diagnostics Tip: CLEAN TIGHT BATTERY CONNECTIONS!!!!!!! :D
 
joshkbomb said:
I tightened the battery cable and it started right up.
I guess the cable was tight enough to run the headlights and dash lights, but too loose to run the starter. If that's even possible. I was banging on the starter before I tightened the cable and it didn't start, but it could have been a combination of the two. I'm probably going to have to get the starter checked out now just to make sure though.

What contacts am I supposed to jump to get the starter to engage (for future reference)? Off the solenoid there was a terminal with red wires going to it, do I just short that to a ground?
Click to expand...


Can't really blame the truck then....can you? I'd blame the guy who does the preventitive maintenance:doah:
 
plumber mike said:
Can't really blame the truck then....can you? I'd blame the guy who does the preventitive maintenance:doah:
Click to expand...

True. :(

I kind of hope that's the case. Then I'll be able to start saying the bucket of bolts that scares the crap out of my friends is more reliable than their cars again. :D

I'll find out soon, I'm going to call an automotive electric motor place tomorrow and see if they can test the starter before rebuilding it. If they can't, I'll still have them rebuild it so I don't have to worry about it.
 
I have an old timer trick that sometimes works with dirty corroded cables.
A few times I have had the same problem yours did.
Turn on the head lights, hit the high beams to "on", then attempt to crank the engine. I've seen it work a couple of times. Theory is, that the headlights on high, coupled with the starter draw, pulls so much current that it will temporarily burn through the corrosion and start the engine. sometimes it works other times it doesn't.

Definitely not a real fix, but has been known to start a truck or two.
 
Re-build it yourself, it's definitely not rocket science. Takes about 1/2 hour and a few small tools, a piece of emery cloth, and a starter "brush" kit. I've done it many times with very good results saving an ass load of $$dough$$!

Call NAPA and ask for a Brush kit for your starter. I'll go see if I can find the part #
 
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