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Stuck Drum Brake Adjuster - Removal and Future Lube?

dhcomp

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Guys,

What is the best lube to use on the brake drum adjuster?

My truck often sees deep water launches at private lakes, and then sits all weekend before being heated up again.

Lots of catchy brake shoes (short term), and eventually i get rusted adjusters.

Hate taking apart the 14FF to handle this.

And ****, how do i even get the drums off with a stuck adjuster?

Tips?
 
Guys,

What is the best lube to use on the brake drum adjuster?

My truck often sees deep water launches at private lakes, and then sits all weekend before being heated up again.

Lots of catchy brake shoes (short term), and eventually i get rusted adjusters.

Hate taking apart the 14FF to handle this.

And ****, how do i even get the drums off with a stuck adjuster?

Tips?

I just use white lithium grease after I clean them real well first. I've seen some use anti-seize. As far as getting the drums off I just use a bfh all the way around. Sometimes they come off easier when hot from driving and sometimes easier when cold. I have had a disc conversion for so long, I don't remember what it's like pulling off those big drums. I remember them being heavy though!
 
i drilled a hole in the backing plate so i can adjust the brakes, then when i need to remove the drum i can loosen the adjuster
 
i drilled a hole in the backing plate so i can adjust the brakes, then when i need to remove the drum i can loosen the adjuster


But if the adjuster is rusted solid.... You are hosed.
 
No,there are options,like cutting the "nails" that hold the shoes on from the back side of the backing plate,or you may also be able to use a long thin screwdriver to knock the adjuster and the spring across it off,so the shoes can retract enough to get the drum off..

I have had drums rust onto the axle flange so tight its like they were welded off,and had to beat the area around the axle with a hammer & thick flat punch or use the air hammer on it to free it up--torches too!..the shoes never stopped me from removing a drum..
 
Been dealing with this particular joy since 1979, so I may have a little insight....
My difference is, despite sometimes encountering salt water, I don't think I have ever had an adjuster rust up.
I do have an advantage though, since all my trucks have been Fords, they all have adjustment holes in the backing plate.

My adjustment problems are always due to mud. It gets in the little threads and locks the adjusters solid.
As my brake pedal gets lower and lower in the course of a month or so, I finally get out and get under with a brake spoon.
If the adjuster is too solid, I spray some water in the hole or find a small creek to park in for a few minutes.

BTW, leaving the adjusting hole covers off seems to help. Lets the water drain out faster.
I once put in to solve the problem once and for all. I put the adjuster body in a lathe, turned a groove in it. Found some soft rubber tubing that would go over the body and loosely clamped it over an O ring in that groove.
Lubed the O ring so that it would turn easily.
Bunched the tubing up so that it could expand and glued it to the threads against the star wheel.
Light grease inside the tubing.

It actually seemed to work for a while, but eventually the tubing failed to turn, wound up around the threads and tore.

Since my main problem is it not adjusting, I once bent the adjusting lever so that it got a better bite on the star wheel.
All that did was chew the teeth off that section of the wheel. When that mud hardens, its strong.

Nowadays, I use genuine Never-seez. Take the adjuster apart, coat the threads with it and run them all the way in and out a few times.
Then some good synthetic grease under the cap on the end so that it turns freely.

"Wet" grease on the threads just collects dirt.

My best advice you, is cut an adjusting hole in the backing plate. Do the lubing I do.
Make sure to use the never-seez around the center hole on the drum.
If you do go in salt water, flush it with fresh as soon as you can.

As for getting the drums off, with the adjusting hole, you should be able to back the adjusters off.
You may have to use a small long screwdriver or some other tool to hold the adjusting arm back.
Try it with the drum off first to see what you have to do.

Also, although I never did it, I always considered drilling a small hole above the adjusting hole to insert the screwdriver into to push the plate back.

I seldom have to back the adjuster off.

If all else fails, like he said, cutting the heads off the two small locking pins will let the whole brake shoe assembly come off with the drum.
 
I mean if the stuff is really ****ed and you need to replace everything just take the drums off with rosy and a BFH. Ive never met a set of drums or drum in hats with a lip that I couldnt win with a BFH when theyre frozen.
 
the backing plate. Do the lubing I do.
Make sure to use the never-seez around the center hole on the drum.

You mean the hole around the hub?

I also have a backing plate adjuster hole already. Hopefully i can get the adjuster unstuck.

Thanks!
 
You mean the hole around the hub?

Yep, you always want your hub hole well lubricated.......

OK, getting a little weird.........




As for backing off the adjuster, remember they are designed to not back off. I have no idea of the exact setup of that unit. Not only a GM, but one I'm not recently familiar with.
But, they all work pretty much the same. The lever that lays on the star wheel and adjusts it as needed also acts as a lock to keep it from backing up.

Many times, if you get a good bite with the adjusting spoon, it will let the star wheel back up when you apply a small amount of force.
But, if its got a good grip on the teeth, it might hold it firm.

In that case, you need to insert a small long tool like a screwdriver and push it away from the star wheel while backing it up.

You might wind up looking at one with the drum off to see what I mean.
 
As for backing off the adjuster, remember they are designed to not back off. I have no idea of the exact setup of that unit. Not only a GM, but one I'm not recently familiar with.
But, they all work pretty much the same. The lever that lays on the star wheel and adjusts it as needed also acts as a lock to keep it from backing up.

Many times, if you get a good bite with the adjusting spoon, it will let the star wheel back up when you apply a small amount of force.
But, if its got a good grip on the teeth, it might hold it firm.

In that case, you need to insert a small long tool like a screwdriver and push it away from the star wheel while backing it up.

You might wind up looking at one with the drum off to see what I mean.


Totally know what you mean. Always push the spring lever off the adjuster to turn it backwards. and this one is stuck solid :doah:

I'll see what i takes when i get there.

Thanks!
 
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