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Stupid rear window

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goochieman83

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Tampa, FL
So I rolled the rear window down on the way home from work and it will not go back up. The panel that screw to the tailgate is off where it is exposed but I still can't get it to move. I can pull one side up with my hands but the other won't move. Also tried lowering it once both sides were even but still nothing. Ideas?
 
electric window?
have you tried both inside and key switches?
also try connecting a battery directly to the wires coming out of the bottom of the tailgate. I had to do that for a little while until I got my truck gate.

Otherwise disconnect the cable from the motor and spin it with a drill
 
Open it up. Pull the driver side latch on the gate. 2 Phillips screws.

The part has a cut off switch on the inside and sometimes they crack and don't put power through. I had this happen once, put the window down and it wouldn't go back up.

I cut the wires and spliced them together to get rid of that switch.
 
Why is it always the rear windows on these trucks that break constantly? I mean Blazers, Broncos, suburbans, hell ramchargers too probably. Seems like anything with an electric rear window is prone to saying goodnight on you quite often.
 
Yes it is electric and it is getting power going down because I can pull up one side and hit the button and it goes down, but nothing coming up. I have the cover with the 8 little screws but I am assuming you mean take the whole thing apart.
 
Doesn't help that the newest truck is now 24 years old, and most of us haven't replaced the seals that help keep water and dirt out of the gate. I suspect the seals do a LOT more than we think they do at keeping the innards of the doors/gate protected.

Plus, brittle wiring, wear, etc. Hell, can you even expect felt or plastic rollers to last that long? Can't really blame the truck for 24+ years of service.

Faulty switch will let it go down, not up as I recall.

Not sure if you should be able to pull one side up though.
 
goochieman83 said:
Yes it is electric and it is getting power going down because I can pull up one side and hit the button and it goes down, but nothing coming up. I have the cover with the 8 little screws but I am assuming you mean take the whole thing apart.
Click to expand...

Ill find pics.

Open the gate up. And look at the locking hinge thing on the driver side. Take the screws off and pull it out. See if the thing is cracked.
 
True. But I did recently take it all apart and clean it really well. Checked all the innards and everything was good, apparently not anymore.
 
Manual crank up tailgate windows can and will strip out or fail in other ways too,like the handle shearing off in your hand after 30 years of weathering and use..

Barn doors rule...they should have made Blazers with them !..like the Suburbans had...

My '72 K5 had a lift up fiberglass hatch that was pretty fragile,but at least it always went up and down with no troubles!..


I almost passed on buying the Burb I have because it had a power tailgate,and a very rotted out one too--but the window works (barely )..slow as hell,and sometimes gets hung up...I hate power windows on doors too,I think they suck..fail often at worst times possible,like during snowstorms..

I found a much better tailgate for my Burb for 40 bucks,that I have stashed in my garage --figured why install it and let it rot sitting in the yard..wait till it ever hits the road to use it..

I actually found a decent pair of barn doors with the same two tone paint job for 100 bucks at a salvage yard when I bought the Burb,but found out after 1978,GM decided not to let us simply toss the tailgate away and bolt on barn doors any more,the whole rear of the truck is different-:doah:

It was too much hassle for me to bother "converting" it,so I took the doors back,luckily the guy did give me a refund,normally they dont..if I didn't know him well and bought stuff there for 20+ years he'd likely have said "you bought 'em,you own 'em"..
 
It would have been cool if they had kept using flip up back glass on the k5s after 72. I like that design.
 
I had a 1971 3 door K-10 Suburban that had a all steel rear window hatch,very similar to my 72 Blazer,and I wanted to swap it onto the K5 in the worst way--but they made the Burb's about 3" wider than a Blazer,so it was too wide..dammit!...
 
goochieman83 said:
Dueling, I can't see the post "don't have permission"
Click to expand...

Damn you non members... :D

Here is that switch brian. With detailed removal pics for noobs like me :thumb:

1. Remove the "rod thing" :haha:

tailgate2.jpg


tailgate1.jpg


tailgate3.jpg


tailgate4.jpg


tailgate5.jpg




Mine broke here and must not have been making contact when closed. I cut the wires and soldered them together. Now i can open it in the down position to clean and grease. Just make sure to support the glass. :waytogo:

tailgate6.jpg
 
Are you talking about the two blue wires that go into that plug on the drivers side latch inside the tailgate. Splice those together?
 
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