You might be ok even if the lift doesn't give you an inch, you still might have enough margin in the shaft.
CK5
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Subjective Sensibility
- Thread starter Polymath
- Start date
A handshake agreement and a 2500 mile drive later, I have my work cut out for me. The goal is a reliable camping and hunting truck with good off road capability and potential for a daily driver.
Good to know. Thanks fellas!
I just assumed I needed to make up for that distance the 14bff took up. I never thought the OEM drive shaft would have so much extra room in it as to account for that.
I genuinely thought about using good ol' Pythagoras to solve this, but I'm lacking some very important variables, like the current measurements of anything. There's no motor/trans/tcase in the car so I can't measure it. I also don't know the exact difference of the OEM to 14bff yoke protrusion. I just know it's a bit longer. Maybe an inch? Maybe two?
These are things I should have thought about before I did the axle swap and before I pulled the old driveline. But alas, I did not.
I just assumed I needed to make up for that distance the 14bff took up. I never thought the OEM drive shaft would have so much extra room in it as to account for that.
I genuinely thought about using good ol' Pythagoras to solve this, but I'm lacking some very important variables, like the current measurements of anything. There's no motor/trans/tcase in the car so I can't measure it. I also don't know the exact difference of the OEM to 14bff yoke protrusion. I just know it's a bit longer. Maybe an inch? Maybe two?
These are things I should have thought about before I did the axle swap and before I pulled the old driveline. But alas, I did not.
If the old axle was a 10 or 12 bolt you also need a conversion u joint but I am sure you already knew that.
Like I said it might have some give.
You can check before you pull your axle out.
Take the driveshaft off and collapse it and see how far will it be.
Axle swap is already done and I have the new ujoints. I think at this point I might get this old motor/trans installed and see if I'm lucky enough that the OEM drive shaft will cram in there. All I really need right now is for it to drive in and out of the garage. If I can avoid spending the money on the lift kit for now, that's all gravy. I've got plenty of work to do on the inside before I can call it road worthy anyway.
If you can get the shaft on then it's short enough to work for moving it around.
You need to collapse at least an inch to get it in.
Well, I pulled a fender to make installing the drive train easier. Found a bit of rust, which when scrubbed on, became a giant hole. For the cost of inner fenders, ($126 shipped from Jegs for their in-house brand) I ordered both. Not going to try patching that rounded area. This was barely a visible pinhole from the underside and not visible from the top when installed.
Then I got bit by that MAWtherfracker of a bug and decided to paint the firewall while I had so much access to it. A few rounds of soap and de-greaser scrubbing later, I declared it good enough and POR15'd most of it. I'll get the remainder of the passenger side when I pull that fender. I don't have room for both fenders to be laying around in here.
Then I got bit by that MAWtherfracker of a bug and decided to paint the firewall while I had so much access to it. A few rounds of soap and de-greaser scrubbing later, I declared it good enough and POR15'd most of it. I'll get the remainder of the passenger side when I pull that fender. I don't have room for both fenders to be laying around in here.
Well, there is definitely some dirt encapsulated in there but it's 95% better than it used to be. Also got new ball joints on there in about 20 minutes. It's nice doing that work with so much access. The AC box did not want to come off though. The top stud just spun and I had to cut the stud to get the nut off. The bottom one just snapped when I tried to remove the nut. So now I have to figure out how to get new studs in there. Or maybe use this as an excuse to get a rivnut tool and replace these studs with rivnuts.
Those studs are attached to the box on the inside of the cab. The one that spun likely broke the corner off the box.
Good to know. I'll have to crawl up in there and inspect it when I get back to it. Looks like i'll be yanking this whole heater/ac setup out of the donor vehicle and compiling the best of both sets into a hopefully usable setup to put back in the blazer.
Yanked all the heater box stuff from the donor vehicle, no issues there. Most of it is in better condition anyway so I might just use that whole mess in the blazer. Then I stuffed the motor, trans, and tcase in here. It was a fight that I really could have used an extra set of hands for. Took about an hour. Still WAY less time than installing them all one at a time. Now I need to get the crossmember under there. Just have a jack supporting the rear end of things for the time being.
Well, While I had the whole front end off, I started in on the door pins. With the electronics going through the door, it was really the only way i'd ever get that done. Only had two pins on hand though. For some dumb reason when I ordered the pins and striker bolts, I only ordered two pins. So the other door will have to wait. For now though, the passenger door works perfectly with the new pins and striker and a bit of a realignment.
I also yanked out all the airbox parts from the blazer. It's definitely in worse condition than the suburban parts so that's an easy call as to putting the suburban parts back in.
I pulled the timing computer too. Is there any aftermarket need for this stuff? Or any reason not to throw it all in the trash?
Also, what's the go-to fix for plugging the giant hole in the firewall after removing this stuff? I had thought about just covering it with some sheet metal and screwing it shut with some RTV to seal it but wondered if there was a general consensus for what others have done. I suppose I could cut the wires and use that bung with a 1/2" bolt or something to fill the hole. Might look a bit obnoxious but it would get the job done.
I also yanked out all the airbox parts from the blazer. It's definitely in worse condition than the suburban parts so that's an easy call as to putting the suburban parts back in.
I pulled the timing computer too. Is there any aftermarket need for this stuff? Or any reason not to throw it all in the trash?
Also, what's the go-to fix for plugging the giant hole in the firewall after removing this stuff? I had thought about just covering it with some sheet metal and screwing it shut with some RTV to seal it but wondered if there was a general consensus for what others have done. I suppose I could cut the wires and use that bung with a 1/2" bolt or something to fill the hole. Might look a bit obnoxious but it would get the job done.
Cleaned up and painted the core support:
Installed Engineered Vintage winch mount kit, which made a handy shelf for a short while.
Hooked up core support and some minimal plumbing and it fired up in short order. Don't have the heater core installed yet so I only ran it for a few seconds just cuz. It's certainly loud without any exhaust.
View attachment IMG_1495.MOV
Installed Engineered Vintage winch mount kit, which made a handy shelf for a short while.
Hooked up core support and some minimal plumbing and it fired up in short order. Don't have the heater core installed yet so I only ran it for a few seconds just cuz. It's certainly loud without any exhaust.
View attachment IMG_1495.MOV
Decided I needed to at least get the firewall covered in insulator before I put the airbox back together. I really don't want to take that crap back apart later. Already dreading getting all the fiddly little shit hooked back together in there. Also, this stuff is quite tedious to install.
