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Super 10 bolt?

I haven't broken anything yet, so I can't tell ya yes or no, but the Burb has 185Km, 35s, newish ball joints (Moog) and that replaced the originals, ORD tie rod and Moog ends. new 3.90 R&P (original brgs), LockRight, Spicer 7XX? joints and WARN hubs.
I had to rebuild the rear 10b just due to mileage, so I used Superior axle shafts, the master R&P kit and a NoSlip.
SBC350 & TH350. And a NP208.

miller.jpg
 
i just think it's odd how ppl break so many parts on ten bolts yet i never seem to have a problem with mine... or my d44. i guess i just need to wheel harder????
 
SUPERSUB87 said:
i just think it's odd how ppl break so many parts on ten bolts yet i never seem to have a problem with mine... or my d44. i guess i just need to wheel harder????
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I wonder about this myself. The way some ppl talk they are made of plastic or something. How many years have 10bolt been put into 4x4s? Many many years. I dunno. I dont doubt ppl have broken them, but maybe jus pushed beyond their limits. LIke all things there is a limit.
 
I really appreciate all of the advice. I guess I am just being stubborn. I think I will keep what I have instead of upgrading the shafts and joints, and start looking for the 60. I'm still going to wheel the piss out of the 10 bolt and if it breaks, so what? Its not my daily driver. How much do those custom aftermarket 60's cost?
 
uberbeans said:
I really appreciate all of the advice. I guess I am just being stubborn. I think I will keep what I have instead of upgrading the shafts and joints, and start looking for the 60. I'm still going to wheel the piss out of the 10 bolt and if it breaks, so what? Its not my daily driver. How much do those custom aftermarket 60's cost?
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Its ok to join the club . I don't care who looks down on me for having the stuff I have . I wheel many times each winter season .

I have only boken one 10 bolt Gov Loc ( who doesn't , really ) , and one 10 bolt ring gear ( caps turned out to be loose , second hand axle I bought for gears ) .

I have a 12 bolt too , and I only broke a housing weld ( someone did it to a 14bff in Utah :eek1: with a smallblock ) . Drove home to AZ from Utah on it .
 
Years from now, im going to build a super-light weight rig using only parts that are lying around my house. it'll have 10-bolt front, 12-bolt rear, crate GM v-6 converted to propane, TH350, ?T-case, and all of that will be in a 1941 Ford GP prototype jeep bodyied buggy:D
 
uberbeans said:
Money being no object can you make a front end 10 bolt "bullet-proof"? What if you had Chrome-moly shafts, CTM joints, Warn hubs, Yukon gears, 1350 u-joint, and a Detroit or lock-rite. How close in strength would it be to a D-60? Honest opinions with no ball-busting please.:D
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Good 30 spline 4340 shafts are stronger than stock 35 spline D60 shafts. Ditto for the CTM u-joints. That makes the Warn hubs the weak link, which is a Good Thing as far as I am concerned. Hubs are pretty easy to change on the trail. You can put drive flanges in in place of the hubs, but then you increase the risk of breaking all those pricey parts :doah:

Two things you haven't mentioned is what size tire are you running and what is your driving style? The 10b/D44 ball joints and other components will wear rapidly once tire size exceeds 37 inches or so. Also, no matter what you can't make the R&P, carrier, and shafts any bigger, which pretty much limits you to 37's tops if you aren't super aggressive and 35's (or less) if you really thrash on it. If big rubber and a heavy right foot are your thing then pony up for a D60, and then save up for all the super trick parts to replace the stock stuff that you will eventually blow up :D.

As for me, I run a bone stock 30 spline 10b on 33's. I have never broken anything, and I can get over any obstacle where the truck will fit, not drag the undercarriage to death, and I have enough traction. If I can't make it I look for another way or take the strap. It's not just the money - I hate working on broken $#!t :wink1:. I plan on keeping the 10b and putting better parts in it, but the reason is to have a greater margin for error. Since I take it easy and my ride will never see tires larger than 35's, this is fine for me. Think long and hard about whether it is right for you before you spend a bunch of money :thumb:
 
That super birfield in the pics for a D60 will handle WAYYYYYYYYYY more abuse then 99.9% of the world could ever throw at it. Bobby long makes some beefy stuff. Stock birfields are weak and junky but the good stuff Bobby builds is guaranteed and you can beat it up without much regard for it failing. Birfields except for the D60 on shown are for Toyotas though. The D60 on pictured is about $2300 a set for the axles and birfield.

Harley
 
A downside to a D60 that probably only matters to a select few of us Sou'Wester's is it's higher unsprung weight. When you drive faster than you probably should be going to try to get to the race truck to fix it & get back in the race this is an important point.

It can be made to work, but it's going to take more spendy shock absorbers to do so. To give an idea of the extreme, Donohoe Racing MADE 4.5" OD bodied by-pass shocks for their Class 8 race PSD. That would be about a 4-1/8" OD piston!:eek1: :eek1: :eek1:
 
I have the same basic discussion with all of the Jeep guys in our club trying to justify keeping the Dana 30 front by putting tons of money into it instead of just getting a bigger axle to begin with (the reason I use this example is because nobody with a fullsize truck in our club runs anything but a 60).

You can buy all of the high dollar chromoly shafts and u-joints for the 10-bolt, but it is still a 10-bolt and you are limited in size on many of the components like the ring gear. You are also into a lot of custom components, and not stuff you can buy at just about any auto parts store.

Overall the way I look at the situation is that you can spend almost the same money beefing your 10-bolt as buying a stock Dana 60, but if you go to bigger tires and the beefed 10-bolt does not hold up you have no place to go with it and will take a hit on the money you spent.
 
We haven't talked directly to what motor is sitting in between the fenders, but I wouldn't dare build a BBC or CAD500 or a Diesel over a 10b axle. That extra weight over a small block has got to be like tons in a hard bump or landing. :haha:
 
6.2Blazer said:
I have the same basic discussion with all of the Jeep guys in our club trying to justify keeping the Dana 30 front by putting tons of money into it instead of just getting a bigger axle to begin with (the reason I use this example is because nobody with a fullsize truck in our club runs anything but a 60).

You can buy all of the high dollar chromoly shafts and u-joints for the 10-bolt, but it is still a 10-bolt and you are limited in size on many of the components like the ring gear. You are also into a lot of custom components, and not stuff you can buy at just about any auto parts store.

Overall the way I look at the situation is that you can spend almost the same money beefing your 10-bolt as buying a stock Dana 60, but if you go to bigger tires and the beefed 10-bolt does not hold up you have no place to go with it and will take a hit on the money you spent.
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That is a good point. But the initial cost of the 60 is only the beginning of getting one to work in our trucks. I know that it is all proven and done, but the starting cost is just the cost of the axle. You will probably have to rebuild most of it as well as get new wheels. This doesn't deter me, I am going to eventually get the 60. Do you think I should bother with building up the 10 for the mean time?
 
uberbeans said:
That is a good point. But the initial cost of the 60 is only the beginning of getting one to work in our trucks. I know that it is all proven and done, but the starting cost is just the cost of the axle. You will probably have to rebuild most of it as well as get new wheels. This doesn't deter me, I am going to eventually get the 60. Do you think I should bother with building up the 10 for the mean time?
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Uhh, if you are going to eventually get a 60 then why spend money on the 10b? Run it as is and fix it as needed until you get the 60.
 
jms said:
Now what I don't get is the following: a lot of people on here sound very much like they are enjoying breaking truck parts while 'wheeling - so then why do they put stronger parts in the truck if it's the thrill of breakage that they're after?
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interesting point you bring up. everyone that i wheel with isn't necessarily glad that their truck failed on the trail, but it does mean they were pushing the limits while most likely have a blast doing it. i think a lot of people have a destructive side to em...this is a fairly healthy way to explore those impulses lol. hopefully by the time you broke those stronger parts, you're doing it while attempting more challenging terrain.:D
 
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