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Suspension Tips?

TeK

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 3, 2005
Posts
170
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Location
Greenwood, IN
Alright sorry if this has been answered but I couldn't find what I wanted. I'm wanting to get right around 7" of lift(maybe less depending on flex) to run 39.5" Iroks. I have a 14B FF in the rear w/ a 60 up front. Will be running 203/205 w/ a 350 pushing around 375-425 ponies. The axles are going to be completely built before they go under the truck. The truck itself is an '86 Blazer w/ dual shocks up front. I have looked at alot of different companies and once I get the suspension figured out I will be starting a buildup thread. Any help would be appreciated.
 
fitment info

going to half to cut the fenders with 7" lift. friend has whiped k10sb with 4" and 3" with 38x12.5x15 on 3/4 and just rubs. my old 1 was 1/2 frame with d60,14ff and 6" and 3" with all new body and spring bushings with out sway bar . also had ordhd shackles and 4" flip with 1/2 ton 5leaf spring and 38x12.5x16.5 tires and thay rubed under full flex hard in the back side of frt fenders. hope this helps.:cool1:
 
I was wanting to run the ORD flip anyways. Wasn't sure what size to run. Was thinking about the 2 1/2" version. Should I shoot for 8" lift then? I don't really want 3" body lift. Would rather just 2". I am also wondering how good do the ORD zero rates perform? The fenders are going to get about a 3" cut all the way around anyway. Any more tips?
 
yea i learned that. I had a cherokee that had 6.5" lift and 33s and the lift was just tooooo much. I don't really want to go 8" of lift but since I can't find alot of other good sources on suspensions setups I just threw that out there.
 
Read the other thread, lots of good info there.

Moving the diff 1" forward results in the same clearance gain as lifting it 2-3" (this would be at the floor/firewall area that is prone to rubbing)

If your budget allows for it you might want to check into some Alcan's through ORD. They're set-up so you end up with ~6" of lift, 2" longer than stock front and rear (49" fronts, 54" rears). They'll ride better and flex better than anything short of a coil sprung buggy...

They are custom tailored to your truck, and the type of wheeling you plan to do. I bought a set from Blk87K5 a couple of months ago, and the center pins are located so that the front diff moves 1.5" forward and the rear 1.5" rearward. The rear springs are 2.5" lift springs to be used with a shackle flip and the fronts are a 6" lift. No saggy butt either. There is no comparison between these spring and anything 'off the shelf'.

There is also no comparison price wise, but you get what you pay for.

Of course this leads to the need for very long shocks, brakelines (you'll need longer ones anyways) and long slip joint driveshafts capable of a lot of angularity. You'll also need crossover steering and proper bump stops.

Rene
 
4-5" is plenty so long as you are willing to trim fenders. The standard ck5 advise is standard for a reason, it works. Best way to get 4" of lift IMO is an ORD 4" shackle flip for the rear and either 4" lift springs (BDS, TC, Alcans if ur rich) up front or stock 52" rear springs up front. For shocks, if you want cheap, go with DT8000s. If you want monotubes, try the BBCS shock that pig over on pirate sells. Both will require custom shock mounting, but its worth it. Either hoops or f-250 shock towers work great up front and in the rear you can add a x-member above your rear axle and inboard the shocks or cut the bed and have them mounted vertically ala the ORD rig.

j
 
thanks guys for the info. I think I may end up starting w/ the shackle flip that is 4" and putting 52s up front. seeing how that goes. the blazer goes under the knife here in about a week or two when my cherokee sells so be preparred for a build up thread.
 
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