swap warn hubs from d44 axle to replace auto lock 10b

[destro360]

whats up im new here so forgive me for any ignorance right now i have my 87 k5 jimmy that has been through alot of wheelin trips with me pretty much stock other then a lift and good tires. i jsut picked up a 78 blazer for nothing that has from what i can figure a d44 front with warn manual hubs and i believe a 12b in the back.. my question is seeing as everyone tells me the axles are just about equal in strength to my 10b's, im wanting to swap the hubs over so i can weld up my front diff with out steering drag when unlocked... anyone familiar with this swap?? if so i have no prob tearing down the warn hubs but the factory auto locks get me goofed up

any help would be great! thnx

 

[dremu]

Not only are 10 bolts and D44's basically the same in strength, they are identical from the spindles out... so the hubs are interchangeable.

Six allen-head bolts, some snap ring pliers and a bunch of swearing later, you'll be golden.

-- A

 

[destro360]

thnx for your input i got everything apart and cleaned up.. now im planning on taking my axle to my shop where we have a monster 220 lincoln welder to weld my spider gears on the front axle up.. any input on that?? some guys have told me a 10b wouldnt hang with it locked.. i'm not sure? i dont wheel everyday only a good few times a year

 

[4X4HIGH]

I wouldn't recommend welding a front diff. When you weld it there are many other parts that are sure to explode. That's just my .02.

 

[destro360]

well my hopes were to achieve better performance when needed from the front cheaply but still maintain a decent highway drive without the rear end locked up.. i am a decent wrench and am aware that it will not last forever and basicly just "passes the buck" so to speak in terms of weak points but if i could get get a couple of years out of it and then replace it with another cheap 10b i'd be happy... but i urge you to spill your views and opinions as i am one man and i do not have all the answers! what do you think would be the first thing further down the chain to go in this diff?? i have no problem re-building or relacing

 

[4X4HIGH]

I think you'll be going through axle joints and axles. My buddy welded his front D60 and ended up with a twisted long side inner axle, broken axle joint and a VERY exploded stub axle. Keep in mind a D44 or 10 bolt have much smaller axles and joints. Usually when a joint goes it either immediately takes out either of the axles/stubs or it oblongs the ears so a new joint doesn't fit properly then that will be a very short time before it fails.

 

[destro360]

ok.. good info to have, um well i was just going off of the fact that i have a ford street rod with an 8 inch rear end that i rebuilt and installed a mini spool which everyone said wouldnt last but it has now 8 years later.. but is the weakness do to the joints in the front?? or axle lenght?? what do you think my best bet would be?? seeing as my budget is small and im just trying to get better performance from a strictly once in a while off road toy..... this isnt a rock crawler or mud bogger and my tire size is small im kinda up in the air on this one... i respect your input greatly though

 

[4X4HIGH]

The front axle joints will become the weakest link once the diff is welded. Welding the front diff puts WAAAY more strain on the joints since it's a steering axle.

I would weld the rear and leave the front alone.

The 8" ford is actually a fairly stout diff. I used to run one in a V/8 pinto i built years ago. Mind you the engine was making close to 400hp and i did not drive it easy either.

 

[destro360]

that was my original plan and still im sure is the best way i was just wanting to find a way around having the rear locked up based on how it affects daily driving and wet and icy conditions..... plus with the price of tires i would hate to burn them up wih a locker on a 3 hour drive you know?? so you think even an air lock or posi set up would be too much for the 10 bolt??

 

[4X4HIGH]

A limited slip up front will be MUCH friendlier than being welded. Welding the rear won't have much negative affect on driveability or tire wear.

 

[destro360]

well i know on my street rod having a mini spool in the rear makes it wear tires like crazy and makes it a bit un-safe in the rain or slippery conditions... i was trying to avoid this on the 4x4 seeing as i'd only use the front when off road... i read in another post that if you dont want to stress the axle to only lock one side and leave the other side (hub) unlocked with a welded front... any ideas on that one?? thnx