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Swapping K5 to truck tailgate and lift glass

Blue85

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I'll detail my conversion here and reference some other threads. This is done on an 80's K5, but should be similar on a 2nd gen full-topper. The two mods are independent. You could put lift glass with a K5 gate (outside sheet metal is the same shape below the window) or you could do a truck gate when switching to a soft-top. It should be obvious how to do just one of them.

The factory power roll-up window is cool. Why would I want to get rid of it?
  1. It's no fun being stuck with a window that won't roll up in 10 degree weather far from home.
  2. It's heavy, even with the assist springs it's harder to lift than a simple truck gate.
  3. The inside handle is hard to grab on a lifted truck or with lots of cargo crammed inside. The truck setup is also more robust than the small rods and handle assembly inside the K5 gate.
  4. The truck gate is thinner, giving more interior space. A few inches is actually nice when you're sleeping between the front seats and the tailgate.
  5. If you carry a long load resting on the tailgate, there's no risk of breaking the glass.
  6. If you run a soft-top part- time, the window stays with the hard top.
  7. Removing a K5 tailgate is a pretty big undertaking- especially with rust where you might break some hinge bolts. The truck gate lifts off in 1 minute with no tools.

What are the drawbacks?
  1. The lift glass takes some creativity. The truck gate is a bolt-on if your lower mounts are intact.
  2. It's no longer a factory original setup.
  3. If you have a spare tire on the back bumper, you may have to move it everytime you want to open the window. The roll-up is like a pocket door and just disappears out of the way.
  4. The power window can be operated from the driver's seat and it's no big deal to drive around with the window open. You can drive with the lift glass open (like hauling lumber), but it's a little goofy for just cruising. Of course fumes are an issue, but I have no idea if the lift glass makes any difference.
  5. You now have an additional key to carry.
What do I need?
  1. Tailgate from a pickup.
  2. Hinges (attach to tailgate)
  3. Trunions (attach to truck)
  4. Links (metal rods that support the tailgate when it's open).
  5. Complete topper glass assembly (frame, window, hinge and lift struts)
There are basically two styles of truck gate, but the trunion/hinge didn't change at the same time the latches and links did (the link contains the catch for the tailgate latch and the post on tailgate is in a different position, which is why they need to match). What parts you need all depends on the tailgate. Attachment to the truck is the same. If you get everything off the same donor truck, it should all bolt up, but if you're piecing things together, the following information should help.

Early latch/link was from '73-'76. 2nd design was from '76-'87. Early hinge/trunion is through '80, with 2nd design '80-'87. If you have a '76 or '80 gate, look carefully at your parts if you need to find stuff.

The early latch looks like this:

1st design tailgate latch.jpg

And this is the 2nd design:

2nd design tailgate latch.jpg

Notice how the later latch has the link post built into it, while it's a separate part on the early one. Also, the mounting hole pattern is obviously not interchangeable.

The hinge/trunion and links all look fairly similar between the designs. You can distinguish between them based on measurements. If I find the relevant measurements I'll add them here.

Here's where @campfire did a lift glass conversion: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/barn-doors-on-a-blazer.331726/page-2#post-3865487

Here's an old sighting: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/rear-window-question.282504/#post-2881153

All of the gates should fit all of the trucks, as long as you have the right hardware. To state it another way, the required hardware depends on the gate, not the truck.
 
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Start with a clean truck gate if you can find one. OEM is best. I can't speak for fitment of the reproductions.

20180331_105004.jpg

20180331_104930.jpg

20180331_105021.jpg

After you've test fit the hinges, brackets and tailgate on the K5 to get it all aligned and closing tightly, pull it all back off for paint.

20180619_205801.jpg

20180623_194507.jpg
 
Reserved for topper glass details.

To start, I made a cardboard template of the seam around the back of the fiberglass top. Then I traced the actual window opening inside that. I carried this to look at cheap toppers for sale. (Unfortunately, most cheap toppers are that way because the rear glass is broken.) Replacement topper glass (new) is about $250 and up, but a whole topper can be had for $100 or so.

I ended up with a Century top for a 1998 Silverado with 6' bed.

The stock K5 window opening is 19.5 x 59.5", or about 62 x 20.5 in the window channel. My new window is about 21 x 61.5 on the inside, or 22x64 on the outer flange. So even to surface mount the frame flame requires cutting out material around the window opening. The window sits in about 1" behind the outer flange.

This aluminum flange is from the inside of the truck topper so the "front" side makes a good template for cutting the fiberglass:

20180626_203305.jpg

If the lift glass is too low, the latch rods will hit the tailgate. If it's too high, you won't get good overlap of the lower flange over the tailgate.

Here is the topper after cutting enough to fit the frame in flat. Pretty hard to turn back at this point. Notice the small exterior grinding by the top "corners". This lets the frame sit in flatter since it passes over the fiberglass peak there.

20180707_145706.jpg
 
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Start with a clean truck gate if you can find one. OEM is best. I can't speak for fitment of the reproductions.

View attachment 268953

View attachment 268954

View attachment 268955

After you've test fit the hinges, brackets and tailgate on the K5 to get it all aligned and closing tightly, pull it all back off for paint.

View attachment 268956

View attachment 268957
I am so into this thread!
About the only thing i never liked about 2nd gen; damn tailgate.
Somewhere I saw that somebody used the back window hatch from a Leer camper shell (toppper).
It looked pretty convincing.
Truck would be dope with a normal tailgate and hatch like the first gens.
Whoever that engineer was that put the glass inside the tailgate...
 
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Subbed! Keep the pictures coming!

Before your article, I was thinking of going to a small camper by removing the whole factory OE fiberglass top and just sealing the area where the cab meets the camper.

This just may save the original profile of my K5 somewhat. Cubes are kinda cute.

Oh yeah ---------------------- I hate my K5 original tailgate!
 
Looking good, Luke.

I got a bit luckier and my window followed the ridge fairly closely. So I didn't need to flatten the fiberglass in the corners. Your window is taller than mine.


Are you going to try fitting the aluminum flange behind the fiberglass? I opted to skip that step in the interest of retaining more fiberglass. The back side wasn't flat, so I would have lost some of the strength if I cut enough to fit the backing bar in there. And I would have destroyed some longitudinal bulkheads.

:popcorn:
 
I was logging and moving brush with the m1009 today.
The damn stock tailgate glass sure would be easy to smack with the chain or a tool.
Really, the only thing they got wrong with square body Blazers.
 
I had just picked up one of those diamond-plate tailgate lip covers that go on pickup truck tailgate lips from a recycler.

I thought that if I cut it just right, I'd keep the window glass from getting whacked by some hard object ---> chainsaw, pipe, chains, tire tools, shovels, etc.

One hit in just the right place and the thing'll crack up like a stained glass window. So using that aluminum lip protector and making sure that the glass is all the way down, should be an improvement.

I ran some 00 Gauge stranded copper back to the hitch area from my battery and took a tap off to a four relay box I made. This keeps all the long runs of electricity in old thin wire that is now used as just signal wire from the rocker switch next to the ash tray.

The 00 Gauge wire direct from the battery sure makes the window go up-n-down - really REALLY fats!
 
Finally warm enough up here to pop the top off the m1009.
Bought a new shell seal kit today on eBay.
When the top goes back on, I'll have that new seal.
Looking around for a truck tailgate too.
I am dead serious about this tailgate/lift gate conversion.
 
Looking around for a truck tailgate too.
I am dead serious about this tailgate/lift gate conversion.

Do it. The lift gate is soooo much nicer than the crank-up window.

I'm still missing tailgate hardware, and my truck tailgate is stranded on the far end of Michigan. But the top half is 100% worth the effort. Zero complaints here, and the tailgate will be icing on the cake!
 
FYI, I've been editing posts above, which doesn't bump the thread.

Keep in mind that I let this project snowball a bit and it could be less work if you find just the right size window. Theoretically you could just glue the window frame in place with silicone or better and just run long self-tapping sheet metal screws into the metal frame and that could be good enough.


After opening up the back of the topper so much, I wanted to tie it all back together as well as I could. I used these coupler nuts to tie the outer skin to the steel "roll bar" structure as the window frame mounting points. There are 4 along the top welded in place, then two at the bottom corners, which are bolted in place from the inside. In all cases I just cut them to the length/taper that lined up.

20180707_171554.jpg

20180707_170024.jpg

20180707_190606.jpg

So I have these 1/4-20 threads to attach the frame to.

20180707_190616.jpg

To add more strength, I shot the open cavity full of expanding foam. This helps spread the load some if I'm climbing up to the roof rack or something. It also serves as a back to spread fiberglass around the coupling nuts and to the inner and outer portions of the topper, so it's all enclosed again.
 
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FYI, I've been editing posts above, which doesn't bump the thread.

Keep in mind that I let this project snowball a bit and it could be less work if you find just the right size window. Theoretically you could just glue the window frame in place with silicone or better and just run long self-tapping sheet metal screws into the metal frame and that could be good enough.


After opening up the back of the topper so much, I wanted to tie it all back together as well as I could. I used these coupler nuts to tie the outer skin to the steel "roll bar" structure as the window frame mounting points. There are 4 along the top welded in place, then two at the bottom corners, which are bolted in place from the inside. In all cases I just cut them to the length/taper that lined up.

View attachment 270551

View attachment 270552

View attachment 270553

So I have these 1/4-20 threads to attach the frame to.

View attachment 270554

To add more strength, I shot the open cavity full of expanding foam. This helps spread the load some if I'm climbing up to the roof rack or something. It also serves as a back to spread fiberglass around the coupling nuts and to the inner and outer portions of the topper, so it's all enclosed again.

Wow, you removed a whole lot more fiberglass than I did. :eek1:

:popcorn:
 
I'm waiting on the "finished" pictures until the truck is put back together and the dust washed off. This may be a common problem with lifted pickup trucks, but the lift glass is so high when it's open I can barely reach, and things can get much higher parked off-road. I may swap to 1" shorter struts or look at moving the strut mounts lower in the frame. Plus, I'd like the option to pull a tarp/canopy sort of straight back from the roof rack.
 
Pull strap riveted to the glass frame solves the height issue. I had to have one on my F250 so the wife could close the hatch.
 
I may swap to 1" shorter struts or look at moving the strut mounts lower in the frame. Plus, I'd like the option to pull a tarp/canopy sort of straight back from the roof rack.

I would add the strap like @Desert_K5 said, but at a strategic length so you can also fasten it to the truck and hold the glass at just the right angle to facilitate the tarp. Like this:

IMGP9458.JPG

IMGP9457.JPG

Then you can have it up for loading or down for rain-shedding. The best of both worlds.
 
Yeah, that could work. It's also only $15 for the 16" struts (mine are 17.1") and just seconds to swap between them. I can check out what position that would put it in. It could also work to whip up side brackets with more than one hole for threaded ball studs. As usual, it's important to over-think and over-complicate. :haha:
 
It could also work to whip up side brackets with more than one hole for threaded ball studs.

This could also work. But an inch won't be nearly enough to get the water flowing away from the truck. Unless yours is significantly shorter than mine.

I like the adjustability of string.
 
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