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Sway Bar for the rear axle K-5?

fltplan

fltplan

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Does anyone know of a sway bar for the rear axle. I've had a few issues with the blazer swaying at highway speeds. I've chased it down with new shocks and looking into the 4" lift. Blocks in the back, new springs up front when I bought it one year ago. Put bilsteins on it (what a difference), messed around with tire pressures, etc. Finally figured out that it always starts with the rear end and the front end stops the swaying. Thought if I had a sway bar in the back it would solve the problem for good. Don't do much off-roading, it's a highway vehichle for the most part.

I have a previous thread on the rock n roll swaying here:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284643

Lot's of great ideas in that thread, but I thought a sway bar would work. Any ideas?
 
I've seen listings for rear sway bars in J.C. Whitney and other aftermarket suppliers catalogs...some trucks had them factory,I'm not sure if a K5 is different in the rear frame area,I dont see why one off a pickup wouldn't fit...
 
diesel4me said:
I've seen listings for rear sway bars in J.C. Whitney and other aftermarket suppliers catalogs...some trucks had them factory,I'm not sure if a K5 is different in the rear frame area,I dont see why one off a pickup wouldn't fit...
Click to expand...


That's good news. I will do some research. Anyone have any experience with a rear sway bar? I've had 3 full size chevy's of the era and can't recall paying attention to the rear end, if they had it or not. Not much of a do it yourselfer back then!
 
Found a couple threads on other forums saying that a rear sway bar would make the suspension really stiff in the back. Don't know why it would under highway driving conditions. Maybe offroad I can see. Couple companies seem to make them. Let's see if anyone chimes in with some personal experience with the setup?!
 
There's been a few companies that made them in the past. No clue if you can get them anymore.

You will feel more road vibes with one.

Did you get rid of the blocks in the back?
 
AJMBLAZER said:
There's been a few companies that made them in the past. No clue if you can get them anymore.

You will feel more road vibes with one.

Did you get rid of the blocks in the back?
Click to expand...


Nope, still have the blocks. General concensus was that blocks weren't all that bad compared to the bigger springs that would replace them. I guess nobody felt they were the root of the problem. I'm still considering lowering it back down one inch so new springs would come at that point after I run out of other options.
 
How many miles on the springs?

Personally I'd bet a decent part of the problem are the springs. You've got 21 year old springs that were kinda soft from the factory fighting against the leverage of the blocks and then you're towing with them...sounds like a good chance of them giving you some wobble.

Mine are wobbly and there's no lift involved, just 201,000 miles.
 
I had the same issue.

I had similiar but not identical issues. If your getting this kinda rock and roll feeling (not really side to side, but front to back). You dont feel it nearly as much, and with a trailer, will feel like side to side. Like the front and rear ends are kinda doing the tango. Its very nerve racking. I tried too, but couldnt fix it with cheap means- better shocks, etc.

The problem has to do with spring rates. Namely, your front spring pack is probably pretty stiff, and your rear spring pack is a little soft.

As your driving, you have all sorts of forces in every direction. You may find your making small steering adjustents as you drive and hit bumps. When towing, your constantly feeling uneasy, with oh **** moments, stabbing on the gas to try to straighten out... sound familiar? Its like the ass end is on a pogo stick.

Two solutions: (or three depending).

Stiffen your ass up. Either replace it with stiffer springs- (in fact, I'd go with stiffer in the rear than in the front). Its not the overload either. You need new farking stiffer springs. If your springs are in the stock location, you can also get air bags.

Option 2: Add a weight distribution hitch. I did this when I was towing my mustang on a trailer, and it towed like a DREAM. what the weight distribution hitch really does is help shift the weight from the rear of the truck and put weight on the front of the truck. I went from white nuckle experience to beautiful highway cruising. The rear end is not allowed to pivot up and down as much with the trailer weight- and by loading up the front suspension, I had no brake dive.

so, to test this theory:

Go find an empty parking lot. Go to about 20-30, then hit the brakes medium hard. Not hard enough to lock, just hard. But remove your hands off the steering wheel. If you see the steering wheel move significantly, you have one of two problems- not enough rear brake bias, or the rear springs are too soft.
 
I have a factory rear sway bar set-up BUT it's from a 3/4 ton truk with a 14ff axle so unless you're running a 14ff rear axle the brackets won't work for you as they go under the axle then the U-bolts sandwich them between the axle.

Did I mention it's for sale. :D

Not even sure how to ship something like that as it is pretty awkward.
 
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