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SYE Rear Driveshaft. What type are you running?

Richcz28

Richcz28

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So I recently got an np208 from jt152 :woot: with a ramcharger tailhousing conversion. Over the course of the next two weeks I am going to be installing this t-case, and mounting up a new rear axle. I'm curious as to what people have created for rear shafts. I want a cheap solution that hopefully can be accomplished with a stock shaft from another vehicle.

A couple thoughts I currently have.

I would like to angle my rear end up for better rock protection and this makes me think a cardan joint is the way to go.

I currently have fixed yoke on the t-case, could or should I run a flange with a cardan?

And is it kosher to post this link? Best info I could find googling.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/what-cv-shaft-why-do-i-want-one-854790/

Thoughts and pictures please :thumb:
 
Lot of people, myself included run a superduty front driveshaft from 05+

It's a flange front, with 1350 caps on the other, cv style shaft.

That's of course if you are running a flange.
 
By angling the rear pinion up, you should really do a cv shaft. If not, you will most likely get some vibs with a traditional 2-joint shaft. When I went with an SYE on my 241, I went with a 1350 flange for the output of the tcase. I then ordered up a full 1350 cv shaft with a flange to mate to the tcase from Tom Woods. I looked at a couple local shops to get one built, and also High Angle, but Tom woods was still cheaper by a couple bucks, plus he gave me free shipping. I have pics of that shaft in my build thread. Just gave him my measurements and he shipped within a day or two and it fit like a glove. It wasn't cheap, but it's a really sweet shaft that I don't anticipate breaking anytime soon. By going to a cv style shaft, it got rid of a lot of vibs I was having before with my 208 with a stock style slip yoke on it.

Here is a good site from Tom Woods http://4xshaft.com/, then click on the "Tech Info" link at the top and it will give some really good info. There are a lot of other ways to try and build your own shaft, and many have done it with success. The hardest thing is getting it balanced to handle higher speeds.
 
What kind of yoke do you have now? If it's a 1350, maybe you can find something to work. If it's the one that came on the Dodge case, it's probably a 1310 paperweight and you need to buy something anyway.

When I first did the Dodge tailshaft conversion, I grabbed the front half of a 2-piece shaft from some Chevy and that fit about right. I had to come up with a 1350 yoke, though. Some of the yards around here just stack up driveshafts in semi trailers for you to sort through. It's important to carry calipers as the different cap diameters and sizes are hard to eyeball. The vibrations were less, but still present. What did improve a lot was the tendency for the slip yoke to bind after braking (that little "thunk" when you first let off the brake)

Now the fixed-yoke conversion makes the driveline like 4" longer, which gives some hope for reducing vibrations, but eventually I realized I wanted a C/V. After looking at all the options and varying levels of hassle/complication I finally went with a custom shaft from Taton. When you get a new long-slip and a C/V grafted on and length changed the price can actually end up higher than buying one outright. I used a stock front flange on the rear output (both are 32 spline) and just had the shaft built to mate with that. I don't see any reason to buy the $100 flange from HAD.

Just some stuff to think about...
 
I have 80s fullsize bronco stuff. 1350c.v with the correct flanges. Only thing i dont like is the metric bolts with 18mm head.
 
yveqehys.jpg


These are the two flanges I currently have. I'm not totally sure on the length yet. My drivetrain may end up a bit longer and a may move my rear axle back about an inch.
 
Richcz28 said:
I currently have fixed yoke on the t-case, could or should I run a flange with a cardan?
Click to expand...

I remember when I did my JBConversions SYE on my 241, I originally purchased a 1350 yoke for the output. But then after talking with Tom Woods, he said that you have to have a specific fixed yoke to run a CV. I then called JBC to ask if their yoke was CV compatible and he said no. So he was really nice and allowed me to just send back my yoke and get a 1350 flange for no charge. From what Tom Woods was saying, it sounds like it is a lot easier to run a CV on a flange than getting the correct yoke to mate the two together. So if you are trying to run a CV in the rear, that might be the better route. Not sure if you knew this info or not, but thought I would share anyways.
 
If thats a front flange off a 205, and im just guessing, but it might only be a 30 spline and that rear yolk I would bet is a 32 spline. Keep that in mind. Only 205 case that had a front 32 spline flange is a ford 205.
 
454Sub said:
If thats a front flange off a 205, and im just guessing, but it might only be a 30 spline and that rear yolk I would bet is a 32 spline. Keep that in mind. Only 205 case that had a front 32 spline flange is a ford 205.
Click to expand...

I think it's a 208 front. I forget what josh said. Either way, it fits the output.
 
I'm getting close to needing a solution for my rear shaft. I haven't seen any junk super dutys pop up near me and it seems the shafts are going for a lot more $$ online then back when some of the first posts on ck5 were made. I haven't seen many below $300.

I feel like the $300 price point puts me in custom shaft territory by the time the super duty shaft would be cut to the correct length.

I have also been recently recommended to look into using pto shafts from tractors that run tow behind implements. This one is new to me.
 
Rich,

I am running the 208 front flange on both front and rear outputs of my 208. They are the same 32-spline setup. Have you rotated the pinion up for a C/V or are you still considering a single-joint shaft?

If a Super Doody shaft is $300, you should just get a shaft custom made. I had Tatton build me a 1350 C/V. I just told him the flange I was running and the length and when it showed up it bolted right in.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1350-CV...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a69e8354a

That link will go dead after a while, but the store is here: http://stores.ebay.com/TATTONS-DRIVESHAFTS?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

If you are still considering a single-joint shaft, you can get one from a 1-ton Chevy, but it will still have to be retubed. Usually by the time you go with a longer slip and get the length changed, it costs just as much as custom shaft. The exception is when all you have to do is shorten a shaft, which can be done at home if you are a decent welder.
 
I haven't put my new rear axle in. 496 truck is working on it. My deadline is thanksgiving. I will be pointing the pinion up.
 
I just scored an f250 front shaft for $25!

It's really really long. Is anyone shortening shafts themselves? I have no problems with welding it back together, but how would I go about cutting it down?
 
I shortend my front shaft myself. You just have to make sure your cuts are exactly square and the male end fits smoothly into the freshly cut tubing. Its like a machined fit. Its hard to explain but you need to grind the weld down and take them apart, dont just cut the tube in the center.
 
I guess I'm just not sure what I'm looking for as I grind the weld down. Are you saying the weld doesn't penetrate all the way through and when I grind the surface weld off the flange will come off?

Which piece/end do you guys recommend separating to make the cut?
 
Rich I made my own rear shaft, and I didn't have it balanced. The only catch was I don't drive on the road(yet).

here is what I did

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attachment.php



Cut the stock slip from a front shaft, then ordered the weld on yoke from driveshaft america or something like that. Slipped it in the tube and welded her up.

I didn't really grind the weld off, I cut the weld using a cut off.
 
If you look at the shaft, look at the male splined end. There is a weld right where the tubing becomes the same size. Now, that male end plus a bit of 2in tubing actually seats itself inside the 2in driveshaft tubing, basically making it a machined fit. Then the weld is laid to hold them together. You can grind or cutoff wheel that weld and it will separate. Then you cut the tubing very squarelike and the male end will fit down inside the fresh cut. You may have to run a file inside it to smooth the tubing for the shoulder of the males end fits inside it. Once you get it apart you will see what I am trying to explain.
 
454Sub said:
If you look at the shaft, look at the male splined end. There is a weld right where the tubing becomes the same size. Now, that male end plus a bit of 2in tubing actually seats itself inside the 2in driveshaft tubing, basically making it a machined fit. Then the weld is laid to hold them together. You can grind or cutoff wheel that weld and it will separate. Then you cut the tubing very squarelike and the male end will fit down inside the fresh cut. You may have to run a file inside it to smooth the tubing for the shoulder of the males end fits inside it. Once you get it apart you will see what I am trying to explain.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I hope to grind into that this weekend.



I also ordered a flange from high angle driveline to make the f250 shaft mount to the 208.
 
I have a 205 with twin sticks, so I engaged just the front end and installed the driveshaft multiple times and put the truck in gear with the hubs unlocked and let the driveshaft spin to check for wobbles, as I dont have many fancy tools and the sawzall cut is hard to square. :whistle: Anyways, I finally got it where it was good and minimal vibes, and then promptly took it out and bent the tubing in one day and ruined the entire shaft again.
 
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