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SYE Rear Driveshaft. What type are you running?
- Thread starter Richcz28
- Start date
454Sub
5/8 ton status
Alright, well just make sure its uber straight then. You could jackstand the rearend if you wanted. Or a nice bandsaw to make the cut, I was limited in tools so I had to McGyver some stuff but it did work for the whole hr I had it on at Mud Bash.
Im not familiar with the F250 shaft size and thickness, so I guess this is a good place to ask. Is it strong enough to support the weight and torque of a rear shaft application? Forgive my total ignorance on the subject.
Im not familiar with the F250 shaft size and thickness, so I guess this is a good place to ask. Is it strong enough to support the weight and torque of a rear shaft application? Forgive my total ignorance on the subject.
I would suggest having a driveshaft shop cut it down and balance it. It's the rear shaft that will be spinning all the time and with those 4.88s it will be spinning faster than your previous set up. You want that thing straight as an arrow and balanced.
I'm confident I can get a straight cut. I have access to a ban saw and a chop saw. The guy who sold me the front shaft is parting out another truck soon, so I am hoping to grab a second. I may try to make one and if it doesn't work out I'll take the other to the shop.
I just feel like I will get hit pretty hard for $$ at the driveshaft shop.
They take 1350 joints and are definitely a heavy duty shaft.
I forget the exact measurements, but I know I will have to lose about 10 inches to fit the front f250 shaft in the rear of my truck.
Thanks for reminding me about phasing the u-joints. That was easy to remember when making my square front shaft.
I'll get it balanced. That should be inexpensive.
I'm trying to imagine the travel of the pinion in my mind. I have reversed my leaf springs to move my axle back approximately 1 inch and I am using an easy inch for an extra 1 1/2 inches. This puts my axle centered 2 1/2 inches behind the center of the spring.
I am going to be welding in my spring perches and I want to account for the change in pinion angle while driving. I have read multiple places to factor in an extra 2 degrees, because while driving, the truck will sit back.
I am picturing the pinion pointing further up as the leaf spring compresses. Is this correct?
I am going to be welding in my spring perches and I want to account for the change in pinion angle while driving. I have read multiple places to factor in an extra 2 degrees, because while driving, the truck will sit back.
I am picturing the pinion pointing further up as the leaf spring compresses. Is this correct?
As a general rule, you want the pinion 1.5-2* down from the t-case to account for axle wrap under power. I'd lean towards 1-1.5*.
U-joints like to work in an operation range of 1-7*. Running constantly at 0* the rollers inside the caps are not turning and will flat spot causing noise and vibration and early wear and replacement.
While the suspension compresses and expands you will have minimum pinion angle movement under normal driving conditions. While crawling and off road you can see higher angles but you won't experience any vibes simply cause of the lower speed. On top of that the joints should be well within their operating range during the suspension cycle.
I have to ask, why so far back? Just cause you want the longer wheelbase?
And, are the springs designed to be run either way around? Aren't they 52s with centered pins?
U-joints like to work in an operation range of 1-7*. Running constantly at 0* the rollers inside the caps are not turning and will flat spot causing noise and vibration and early wear and replacement.
While the suspension compresses and expands you will have minimum pinion angle movement under normal driving conditions. While crawling and off road you can see higher angles but you won't experience any vibes simply cause of the lower speed. On top of that the joints should be well within their operating range during the suspension cycle.
I have to ask, why so far back? Just cause you want the longer wheelbase?
And, are the springs designed to be run either way around? Aren't they 52s with centered pins?
The springs were designed with the center pins drilled an inch forward to help with pinion angle according to tuff country. I called and spoke with them when I first got my springs, because I also expected the center pin to be centered.
My thought process on moving the axle back was first to get it centered (I know flipping the springs actually moves it two inches back from where it was before, but this is only 1 inch back from stock). Then I figured, while I'm changing everything I might as well move it back a little more. I thought this would help with driveshaft angle, and departure angle.
I don't even think I will need to cut, but obviously I can't be sure until I get the bigger tires on.
My thought process on moving the axle back was first to get it centered (I know flipping the springs actually moves it two inches back from where it was before, but this is only 1 inch back from stock). Then I figured, while I'm changing everything I might as well move it back a little more. I thought this would help with driveshaft angle, and departure angle.
I don't even think I will need to cut, but obviously I can't be sure until I get the bigger tires on.
drivelineman
1/2 ton status
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- Aug 23, 2000
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Good conversation 
According to the driveshaft shop I dropped my super duty shaft at yesterday, this is a shaft from a canadian super duty. The guy said He has only seen a shaft like this once before and it was on a ford from canada. It is a mix of parts and not what they typically carry.
He offered to sell me a brand new complete shaft for $425 or wait while he ordered in parts. I'm getting the parts priced out right now, but I may not hear back until tomorrow.
In the meantime I'm going to try to track down another super duty shaft.
He offered to sell me a brand new complete shaft for $425 or wait while he ordered in parts. I'm getting the parts priced out right now, but I may not hear back until tomorrow.
In the meantime I'm going to try to track down another super duty shaft.
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The guy I got the super duty shaft for $25 from said he was going to be parting out a few more f-250s in the future. I gave him a call to see if I could grab another shaft and now he wants $100 and only if I pull it myself. $100 plus a guesstimated $300 for shortening and a rebuild puts me right in new/ custom shaft territory.
I made the call to my closest junkyards and as usual they have nothing.
I'm starting to feel like I should have a custom shaft made, but really don't feel like dropping that kind of cash for something I'm bound to destroy.
I'm really surprised this super duty shaft has "rare parts" in it. I don't even want to run a shaft that is going to leave me sol when parts break.
I made the call to my closest junkyards and as usual they have nothing.
I'm starting to feel like I should have a custom shaft made, but really don't feel like dropping that kind of cash for something I'm bound to destroy.
I'm really surprised this super duty shaft has "rare parts" in it. I don't even want to run a shaft that is going to leave me sol when parts break.
