TheBeast_88K5
Banned
I'm looking for a simple thread, or link, to the differences in doubler combos.
Is there such a thread?
Is there such a thread?
Last edited:
CK5
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T-case & Doubler comparison thread...
- Thread starter TheBeast_88K5
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I don't want to miss this one.
I don't want to miss this one.
There really isnt too much to compare.
The 203/205 was the standard and only option for a long time as far as stock cases go. This gives you a 2:1 and 4:1 option. The addition of the Lomax 3:1 kit for the 205 gives you 2:1, 3:1, and 6:1 but is currently unavailable and $1000 plus which is in my opinion when combined with the doubler kit, inputs (if needed), outputs (if needed) and price of the cases if you have to buy them approaching the price of an Atlas, Black box, Stak etc.
The other option is the 241/205. D&D was the only company for a long time that manufactured anything, but ORD has a kit forthcoming and I believe will allow you to use the much more common figure 8 205. The D&D kit requires the 86+ round pattern case which is more difficult to find and usually more $$. This setup will give you 2:1 (205), 2.7:1 (241) and 5.4:1 ranges. Same as an Atlas 4 speed. The 241/205 is a good setup IMO and I am currently piecing one together. It requires a little more fab work with having to cut the case up and tig weld the opening of the 241. The Driver drop 241's are plentiful and with ORD's kit including the figure 8 pattern 205 those are fairly simple to find as well.
There are other variations like the 231/205 and the 231/Dana 300 which are comparable, but the 231 has a smaller planetary set than the 241. The above to are kinda the (fullsize) options. Otherwise you have the Black box, Klune V, Stak, Atlas for aftermarket underdrives/multi speed cases.
The 203/205 was the standard and only option for a long time as far as stock cases go. This gives you a 2:1 and 4:1 option. The addition of the Lomax 3:1 kit for the 205 gives you 2:1, 3:1, and 6:1 but is currently unavailable and $1000 plus which is in my opinion when combined with the doubler kit, inputs (if needed), outputs (if needed) and price of the cases if you have to buy them approaching the price of an Atlas, Black box, Stak etc.
The other option is the 241/205. D&D was the only company for a long time that manufactured anything, but ORD has a kit forthcoming and I believe will allow you to use the much more common figure 8 205. The D&D kit requires the 86+ round pattern case which is more difficult to find and usually more $$. This setup will give you 2:1 (205), 2.7:1 (241) and 5.4:1 ranges. Same as an Atlas 4 speed. The 241/205 is a good setup IMO and I am currently piecing one together. It requires a little more fab work with having to cut the case up and tig weld the opening of the 241. The Driver drop 241's are plentiful and with ORD's kit including the figure 8 pattern 205 those are fairly simple to find as well.
There are other variations like the 231/205 and the 231/Dana 300 which are comparable, but the 231 has a smaller planetary set than the 241. The above to are kinda the (fullsize) options. Otherwise you have the Black box, Klune V, Stak, Atlas for aftermarket underdrives/multi speed cases.
241/205 is the only way to go imo.
the heavy 203 with it's not even 2-1 ratio seems like a waste now.
The 241 double kit is only around 499 too
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=696803
the heavy 203 with it's not even 2-1 ratio seems like a waste now.
The 241 double kit is only around 499 too
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=696803
I know I'm highlighting what Brian said but the 241/205 gives you the most flexibility and is a lot lighter than the traditional 203/205 doubler.
If you don't want to mess with all the fab work involved with cutting the 241 case apart then a black box/205 will give you the same exact results and is bolt on.
If you don't want to mess with all the fab work involved with cutting the 241 case apart then a black box/205 will give you the same exact results and is bolt on.
The black box, and before them the KluneV are a 241 planetary in a custom box, which actually makes it stronger, but more expensive.
I too believe the 241/205 or any 241/2xx would be a good doubler and I bet cheaper than a 203/ 205.
But I am going to assume that the OP was asking about the different suppliers of the 203/205 doublers, comparison between quality, price and ease of use, but I could be wrong.
The black box, and before them the KluneV are a 241 planetary in a custom box, which actually makes it stronger, but more expensive.
I too believe the 241/205 or any 241/2xx would be a good doubler and I bet cheaper than a 203/ 205.
But I am going to assume that the OP was asking about the different suppliers of the 203/205 doublers, comparison between quality, price and ease of use, but I could be wrong.
I know, that's why I said it gives the same exact results (implying gearing selection).
I think he's looking for a comparison of the different case combinations.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Nah... MTblazer89 hit it on the head.
He explained everything I needed to know!
Thanks, MT!!!
He explained everything I needed to know!
Thanks, MT!!!
Having built my own 241/205 Doubler may make me a little biased.
But, I thought it would be a good project. It turned out being rather stressful for me( I worry and brood over stupid ****, for way too long)
Plus, when it came to the intermediate shaft, I had to basically plan, design, draw, and then describe to the Engineers at RCV Performance, what the shaft did and what it had to withstand.
Then I was at their mercy for what seemed like forever, about 9 weeks for them to deliver it.
But, it appears to function as advertised.
RCV Performance also guarantees the shaft against breakage, lifetime guarantee. 'Nuff said.
But in the end it was worth it, I got the doubler I wanted, learned alot along the way and made a good friend along the way too, David Burgess (sixb)
If it were not for David and his machine work-expertise, it would probably have been alot more stressful than it was. My hat is off to David
Check out the build at the bottom of my signature...(breaks arm, patting self on back
)
But, I thought it would be a good project. It turned out being rather stressful for me( I worry and brood over stupid ****, for way too long)
Plus, when it came to the intermediate shaft, I had to basically plan, design, draw, and then describe to the Engineers at RCV Performance, what the shaft did and what it had to withstand.
Then I was at their mercy for what seemed like forever, about 9 weeks for them to deliver it.
But, it appears to function as advertised.
RCV Performance also guarantees the shaft against breakage, lifetime guarantee. 'Nuff said.
But in the end it was worth it, I got the doubler I wanted, learned alot along the way and made a good friend along the way too, David Burgess (sixb)
If it were not for David and his machine work-expertise, it would probably have been alot more stressful than it was. My hat is off to David
Check out the build at the bottom of my signature...(breaks arm, patting self on back
)
Well since they have been compared. From people who have built them what are the costs for a complete build of each and costs of these after market units like the atlas etc...???
I figure mine cost me about $600.00 total Not including trade labor for some machine work.
Plus I have the satisfaction of having built/designed it myself, with alot of help from sixb, David Burgess was in on most of the design and machining phase of it.
Plus I have the satisfaction of having built/designed it myself, with alot of help from sixb, David Burgess was in on most of the design and machining phase of it.
Is the ORD 241 kit out yet?
Not that I've seen. I have been watching cause I may just spring for the kit on mine and bypass the headache
Just more info that I think is right
ORD kit is the shortest
D&D kit is the longest,
NWF is the only one that lets you clock it to whatever you want basically and from what I have heard is just a touch longer than ORDs.
FWIW I have a D&D 203/205 I like it just fine but if I was shorter I think I probably would have gone with ORDs, D&Ds is also cheaper than ORDs
ORD kit is the shortest
D&D kit is the longest,
NWF is the only one that lets you clock it to whatever you want basically and from what I have heard is just a touch longer than ORDs.
FWIW I have a D&D 203/205 I like it just fine but if I was shorter I think I probably would have gone with ORDs, D&Ds is also cheaper than ORDs
I don't blame you one bit. After the headache of mine, I'm super hesitant to start anything near as complicated.
It was a giant PITA!
That said, I have another Intermediate shaft identical to the one in the doubler I built.
I've had several requests to "build one" for other people. I have had to respectfully decline.
It just takes too long for me to do anything that I'm being paid to do, and I don't want to disappoint.
Plus, mine is unproven. I have not officially driven it yet.
They have posted some pics of it in that pirate thread and IIRC someone from there even listed a price (I think
).
They have posted some pics of it in that pirate thread and IIRC someone from there even listed a price (I think
Link?
Link?
Gimmie a minute , I'll see if I can find it
Here ya go
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1010750. Post 9
Thanks man!
I have a username there. The whole (hole?) "As the PBB turns." just pisses me off.
Homey don't do drama! Least not on da interweb!
I have a username there. The whole (hole?) "As the PBB turns." just pisses me off.
Homey don't do drama! Least not on da interweb!
1-tonmudder
1/2 ton status
To my knowledge I was the first to post a build thread on a 241/205 doubler cause I searched hell and 1/2 of georgia for any info on this set up.As usual the more thats built the better they get and I've have saw others that have done things different than the way I did mine,most for the better.Since mines a trailer queen I mostly just use the 2.7:1 or the 5.4:1.Mine will actually slide the tires if I shift the 400 from drive to first w both cases in low.It also has pretty good compression braking.I built one cause it was more low for less dough and nobody (that I could find) had done one.
