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T Case Lowering Kit

Operator238

Operator238

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So I bought the truck with a 6” RC lift. It appears to have a lowering kit (little spacers). On the RC website, it doesn’t specify that the kit is used for X-Y” lift kits.

My question is; I’m in the process of going to a 2” Tuff Country lift, should I leave the TCase lower kit there?

My next question is, i have the front end apart, I found what looks like a plastic shim under the passenger side leaf spring. Am I supposed to have these? If so, where can I buy new ones?

P.S. I really like this chassis saver satin paint. Curious to know if u should do the new Tuff Country leaf springs in it, it looks like their painted but I just don’t want them rusting on all the hard work I have done.

IMG_6744.jpeg

IMG_6736.jpeg
 
Most likely someone has taken the spacers from on top of the bolts and used them to lower the transfer case. Post pics and we can tell you for sure. If that’s the case you’ll want to put them back where they belong on top of the bolts in the frame.
 
Beware of tcase lowering, this is a Jeep based hack. Lowering the case may improve the rear driveshaft angle but it will increase the front driveshaft angle. Just say no.

Also, at 2” you have no need to worry about driveshaft angles (the reason for lowering the tcase).

That plastic piece is an anti squeak pad.
 
nvrenuf said:
Beware of tcase lowering, this is a Jeep based hack. Lowering the case may improve the rear driveshaft angle but it will increase the front driveshaft angle. Just say no.

Also, at 2” you have no need to worry about driveshaft angles (the reason for lowering the tcase).

That plastic piece is an anti squeak pad.
Click to expand...
Ok then I’ll just proceed to finish the front, then do the back, then put the tcase back to its original location before re installing the driveshafts.
 
nvrenuf said:
Beware of tcase lowering, this is a Jeep based hack. Lowering the case may improve the rear driveshaft angle but it will increase the front driveshaft angle. Just say no.

Also, at 2” you have no need to worry about driveshaft angles (the reason for lowering the tcase).

That plastic piece is an anti squeak pad.
Click to expand...
Ok then I’ll just proceed to finish the front, then do the back, then put the tcase back to its original location before re installing the driveshafts.
 
The bolt goes through the crossmember, the frame, the little spacer, then the nut. The spacer gives enough bolt length it won't loosen over time.
 
Just checked my '91. I thought the spacers went above the frame but mine are also below. Looks to be stock.
 
I would reverse your bolts so the threads don't scraped on a rock. other than that it really doesn't matter. It does say that i have been apart at least once in the past.
 
HankScorpio said:
Just checked my '91. I thought the spacers went above the frame but mine are also below. Looks to be stock.
Click to expand...
My 1991 1-ton crew cab trans crossmember mounting is different. It is the exact same crossmember, but mine goes on top of the frame while using the outside holes. It does not even have the inside holes drill into it from the factory. Also my 91 came with a 205 transfer case instead of a 241.
 
Maybe it's dealer's choice. I just always liked the spacers and nuts above the frame so the bolts can't get smacked on stuff.
 
1-ton said:
My 1991 1-ton crew cab trans crossmember mounting is different. It is the exact same crossmember, but mine goes on top of the frame while using the outside holes. It does not even have the inside holes drill into it from the factory. Also my 91 came with a 205 transfer case instead of a 241.
Click to expand...
One ton crossmembers always mounted above the frame because the frame is taller.
 
I believe as long as the spacers are on the shoulder of the bolt and not between the crossmember and the frame you are good to go.
 
From here it looks like the rubber in your isolator has seeing better days.

IMG_8078.jpeg

Would any of you guys switch that out based on visual inspection?
 
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