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Tailgate lock cylinder replacement - OEM or uncoded aftermarket?

AuH2O

AuH2O

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I need to replace my electrical tailgate lock cylinder since the switch for the window has given up. The OEM replacement part comes fitted with a new key; so I'll end up with one key for the doors and a different one for the tailgate, and I'd like to avoid that if possible. For about half the OEM price, LMC Truck sell an "uncoded" lock cylinder that I can take to a locksmith and have them fit it for my current key. Seems like a good option, just wanted to ask if anyone else has any experience or problems with it? And why won't GM sell uncoded locks? Is it a security issue? What if, say, my drivers' side door lock gave up too and I'd have to replace that? With an OEM part I'd end up with three different door keys. :doah:Or, if I bought an OEM cylinder with a new key, could a locksmith still "recode" that to fit my current key?
 
Can't answer the re-key issue (although I'd think a competant locksmith probably could) but I can say that those switches aren't that hard to recondition yourself. They are exceedingly simple inside, as long as something isn't broken, it's probably just corrosion or gunk built up on the contacts. Mine still acts up once in awhile (will go down but not up with the key, sometimes) but it didn't work at all before reconditioning. I suspect if I went back in and took my time it would work flawlessly.

OEM is ridiculously expensive in any case IMO. Something like $55 from gmpartsdirect, before shipping! Looked it up the other day as a matter of fact. If it was $5/10 bucks, it probably wouldn't be worth fixing, but then it wouldn't be a learning experience either. :)
 
Only $55 for OEM? LMC Truck charge $60 for the "uncoded" one before shipping, and my GM vendor said well over $100 for an OEM. I'm in the process of transfering all old parts I can still use from an old rusted out tailgate to a new shell, and since that lock cylinder hasn't worked at all since I bought the truck, and seeing as how it's a PITA to get to once everything is mounted and in place on the truck, i figured it'd be worth the peace of mind to just get a new lock in in place while I was at it. 'Cause the lock and its incorporated switch is the issue, all wiring and everything else is ok.

But if you say those locks are exceedingly simple inside, then yeah, maybe I should give cleaning it out and reconditioning it a go. I asked a local locksmith yesterday about the "coding" of the LMC cylinder, and he said it would take him the better part of the day to do it and that he usually didn't do car locks since they took up too much of his time. He must not have known what he was talking about...?

(Another shocker by the way: Look up what the OEM weatherstrip around the tailgate runs ya... I mean, damn, practically a third of what I bought the whole shell for... :rolleyes:)
 
I agree with dorian, they are simple inside. I've taken mine apart before and there is just a few parts inside the lock cylinder to remove to get to the brass contacts that get corroded.
 
I bought a new cylinder from the dealer several years ago and IIRC i only paid around $35.00 for it and then i had them key it for me to match my existing key. They did that for free, but then again i also do work for the dealers and they all know me.
 
AuH2O said:
Only $55 for OEM? LMC Truck charge $60 for the "uncoded" one before shipping, and my GM vendor said well over $100 for an OEM.

(Another shocker by the way: Look up what the OEM weatherstrip around the tailgate runs ya... I mean, damn, practically a third of what I bought the whole shell for... :rolleyes:)
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Dealers usually bend you over pretty bad. Some will discount and get you close to what gmpartsdirect.com charges, most I've encountered will not.

I know what the OEM seals run, I bought at least one of every one for my truck awhile back. They are expensive, but if you think saving a few bucks by going aftermarket is worth it, you are wrong. For one, the OEM stuff fits every time, and two, the original GM seals on my truck are over 20 years old and while not great, still work. From the quality of the aftermarket stuff I got from LMC, it won't last nearly as long, and it certainly doesn't fit right. Only bought it because some OEM stuff is discontinued.
 
dyeager535 said:
Dealers usually bend you over pretty bad. Some will discount and get you close to what gmpartsdirect.com charges, most I've encountered will not.

I know what the OEM seals run, I bought at least one of every one for my truck awhile back. They are expensive, but if you think saving a few bucks by going aftermarket is worth it, you are wrong. For one, the OEM stuff fits every time, and two, the original GM seals on my truck are over 20 years old and while not great, still work. From the quality of the aftermarket stuff I got from LMC, it won't last nearly as long, and it certainly doesn't fit right. Only bought it because some OEM stuff is discontinued.
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Yeah, I got the OEM seal, that's how I learned what it cost, over the counter. :D Maybe a little hefty for a damn piece of rubber, but yeah, hopefully it'll last a long time. Just like you I mostly only buy aftermarket if the original part has been discontinued. But since I ordered some stuff fitting that category from LMC earlier I figured I might as well tag the access panel seals they had onto the order as well. Well guess what, they're about an inch too short in either direction... :doah:I have the OEM seals on order now, but don't know yet if they're discontinued or not.

But I'm wandering from my own topic now... I'll take the lock apart and clean it up thoroughly and see if that works. Hey, might be fun... ;)

What's the GM part number for it, anyone know? If I do get a new one I'll just get it from gmpartsdirect.com and have someone re-key it for me since that seems to work. Don't work for any dealer though so I doubt I'd get 4X4HIGH's price. :p:
 
A belated thanks for your link! You did those scans? Great job! I've been trying for a long time to find a compete parts manual myself, and I've still got my eyes open.

It turns out that my old cylinder was shot beyond repair, so I used your scan to order a new one. Or, well, a NOS one really. The sticker on the box indicates it's been tucked away on a shelf since its 1990 manufacturing date. And the brief installation instruction inside was dated 1972. :p:

I took as much as I could apart on the old cylinder, but got stuck on the actual lock mechanism and took it to a professional locksmith. You're supposed to put your key in and twist to get the tumblers out, but it turns out that something inside was so bent or broken that it wasn't even possible after a night in a solvent bath and with brute force. Nothing to do but trash it...

If anyone's interested to see how they come apart, here's a picture of my old discarded one:

09052007236.jpg
 
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