Talk me into spending more money on axle upgrades...

[campfire]

[disclaimer] This thread involves axle pricing. Axle prices in my area are significantly lower than what most CK5 members see. My local junkyard charges $102 for any axle they have in stock. Back in Iowa, I bought my 14BFF for $125. D60 axles typically go for $500 or so.
[/disclaimer]


Current project is sourcing an 8-lug front axle for my half-converted M1009. Turned down one option today because the seller wanted to sell his 3/4-ton axles as a matching set ($300 total). Didn't think buying another 2 unnecessary axles just for the backing plates was worth that price (I think they're only worth $200, but he disagrees).

Continued searching, and came across this:

Chevy Dana 60, 14 bolt 4.56 gears - $700


Have a matching set of axles out of a late 70's Chevy 1 ton, they have 4.56 gears. Bought for a project but changed plans. Call or text thanks

This is a reasonable price for this combination (though not low enough for it to sell quickly), and I am tempted. I don't have need for such, as I am very gentle to my trucks. My truck came with the 14bff already half-installed. Given my desire to run no larger than 33" tires, my 6.2 diesel would not like the 4.56 gearing at all. So I see that as a detriment.

Highpsi has a late 70's D60 that he was planning to sell for $500 (whenever he gets time to chop the truck up). Ratio unknown, but it ran the highway without O/D, so I doubt it is any deeper than 4.10. I have 3.73 and 4.10 gears available for my 14bff. I'd be content with either ratio.

I don't plan to beat on the truck, and I don't have any rocks to crawl (nor do I think I'd have the patience for axle-breaking stuff). This rig is for muddy forest trails, sand dunes, and expedition trips. Don't have any need for a D60 front, but I've considered getting one just for the fun of rebuilding one. If I wind up poorer in my axle endeavors I will have less money to spend on other fun projects (like suspension and tires)


So...talk me into either being sensible and ignoring the ad or being poorer and rebuilding the D60.

 

[campfire]

And tech-wise, my understanding is that the spring perches on the rear axle will be narrower than what I have, but the front axle will be an exact match. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[kennyw]

And tech-wise, my understanding is that the spring perches on the rear axle will be narrower than what I have, but the front axle will be an exact match. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

You are correct here.

No reason to buy the D60 for your application other than extra piece of mind *IF* you were to get into a serious situation and an emptier wallet.

 

[campfire]

You are correct here.

No reason to buy the D60 for your application other than extra piece of mind *IF* you were to get into a serious situation and an emptier wallet.

This has been my thought during this process. I don't think I'm likely to break any of my front axle options. But the folks on here seem to swear by the D60 ("everything needs a D60"), and I'm curious as to why.

I was going to say that I'm not against putting $500 into a sturdier front if one comes up and I can't find a $200 10-bolt. But after typing that out I'm not doing a very good job of convincing myself.

It probably comes down to whoever comes up with appropriate gearing.

 

[6872xtc]

From my experience and opinion of what you are doing, the larger wheel bearings are nice. Not necessary, but when I used to drive my old '79 a ways on the highway, the bearings always stayed cool, even when I used the brakes some. Now the larger brakes were really nice to have. Combined with the hydro-boost, it was great to be able to load the bed with a yard and a half of gravel and still be very confident in stopping. But I don't know if I would swap out what was already in the truck for a D60 in your situation. You could try upgrades for the existing brakes and still have less money and time invested.

 

[campfire]

From my experience and opinion of what you are doing, the larger wheel bearings are nice. Not necessary, but when I used to drive my old '79 a ways on the highway, the bearings always stayed cool, even when I used the brakes some. Now the larger brakes were really nice to have. Combined with the hydro-boost, it was great to be able to load the bed with a yard and a half of gravel and still be very confident in stopping. But I don't know if I would swap out what was already in the truck for a D60 in your situation. You could try upgrades for the existing brakes and still have less money and time invested.

My current 10-bolt has both mismatching gear ratio and mismatching lug pattern. So the very least I'm looking at is a hub conversion and gear swap. If I found an axle that had the correct gearing, I would probably swap it out vs. gear-swapping the current axle in place. I would prefer to replace the hub bearings before I put it on the road, but I'm not in a hurry to rebuild the pumpkin unless there's some problem with it. So finding a 4.10 or 3.73 axle that simply bolts into place would probably be my ideal.

 

[Ned Kelly]

$700 is cheap for a matched set.
If it is from a CUCV, the rear will have a Detroit Locker ($450 itself to buy new).
For that price for both front and rear, I don't think you could go wrong.
I'd buy.

 

[campfire]

$700 is cheap for a matched set.
If it is from a CUCV, the rear will have a Detroit Locker ($450 itself to buy new).
For that price for both front and rear, I don't think you could go wrong.
I'd buy.

$700 is fairly normal price here. A beat-up K30 from the 70s is only worth $500-$1000. So I don't think it's the last pair that I will find for that price. But the low population density up here often means driving for hours to find someone with parts. That's one of the primary reasons that I passed on the set of 3/4-ton axles. This set is a reasonably short drive away, and that's worth something to me.

Every once in a while I pull up Craigslist in Denver or Pheonix just to remind me that there are areas where lots of folks are selling truck parts within a few mile radius.


The ad says it's from a late 70s truck, so I'm not counting on having a Detroit in there. But it is possible. And I would be willing to pay extra for that, as a 14bff Detroit is on my build list.

 

[kennyw]

A Dana 60 has its place. Heavy duty towing as intended by the factory and heavy duty off road use with moderate power and moderate tires (35-42ish).

 

[campfire]

A Dana 60 has its place. Heavy duty towing as intended by the factory and heavy duty off road use with moderate power and moderate tires (35-42ish).

Then why, oh why, do so many people swear by them?

 

[sweetk30]

dana 60 for me .

from stock tires sizes to 38" ( my own rides ) I have had no problems .

bigger brakes / bearings / shafts / front wheel u-joints .

I have tried to pop my stock 60 with ??? brand greaseable u-joints on the shafts . still cant do it . even on blacktop plowing snow in 4wd with a 9ft fisher plow on the front .

if the deal is right go for it . but as you have said no super need for it .

I just do it cause its the COOL thing to do and I don't have to repair it all the time like smaller axles . and definitely the insurance factor of peace of mine strength when you need it .

 

[kennyw]

Then why, oh why, do so many people swear by them?

Because they are bigger and badder. Telling someone you have a 10 bolt doesn't sound cool.

There is nothing wrong with running one. But you will pay a penalty in extra weight, less ground clearance, and a higher purchase price.

 

[sweetk30]

Because they are bigger and badder. Telling someone you have a 10 bolt doesn't sound cool.

.

but sir dana 60 has 10 bolts on the cover

 

[campfire]

Because they are bigger and badder. Telling someone you have a 10 bolt doesn't sound cool.

There is nothing wrong with running one. But you will pay a penalty in extra weight, less ground clearance, and a higher purchase price.

but sir dana 60 has 10 bolts on the cover

So...that means that my 10-bolt is just as cool as your D60, right?

 

[sweetk30]

its whats inside that counts

and the size of the guts

 

[76zimmer]

So if I threw in some gas money you want to haul them to my place in Oct for the bundyhill run?
I think Adam and Wade have proven a 10 bolt can take some abuse, for me, a decent BBC and a doubler meant the 60 was a necessity!

 

[campfire]

So if I threw in some gas money you want to haul them to my place in Oct for the bundyhill run?
I think Adam and Wade have proven a 10 bolt can take some abuse, for me, a decent BBC and a doubler meant the 60 was a necessity!

Possible. I'm still not sure that bringing my street queen to Bundy Hill is a worthwhile idea (Suburban is out for this year). Sounds like a fun place for capable rigs, though. I do want to see the dunes before they close (6 weeks), but I have a couple weekend projects to clear before I can plan that out. May or may not happen this year (sounds like last year, no?).

As far as this deal goes, this price isn't rare here. Today I came across a lonely D60 front with 4.10 gears for $500. Do you not have deals like this down in troll-land?

 

[toomany]

Possible. I'm still not sure that bringing my street queen to Bundy Hill is a worthwhile idea (Suburban is out for this year). Sounds like a fun place for capable rigs, though. I do want to see the dunes before they close (6 weeks), but I have a couple weekend projects to clear before I can plan that out. May or may not happen this year (sounds like last year, no?).

As far as this deal goes, this price isn't rare here. Today I came across a lonely D60 front with 4.10 gears for $500. Do you not have deals like this down in troll-land?

They are out there down here....but they only last a few hours at that price. I paid $700 for my D60 w/ORD crossover parts/steering box and thought I got a good deal. I picked up a dually D60/14B for $750 not that long ago too.

The ones I see sell usually go for around $700, much higher than that and they sit around awhile.

 

[76zimmer]

Mine was a 500$ piece from a wrecker
Thought it was a good piece in need of a refresh w king pins bearings seals etc but a kingpin being stripped out and the hole elongated required a bit of labor to correct and adding a locker, 1410 yoke and diff rebuild kit added up to 2k+ by the time it was under the truck