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tall deck big block info 366, 427

really??? I've always ben told they were .400 inches longer than a normal dist.
 
that's just what i've done. nobody had told be they wouldn't fit when i tried it so i did. and so far no problems in the last 5 yrs.:D knock on wood. the biggest problem i had was with initially timing it with the restrictor tubes and carb on. it runs smooth no weird noises whining etc that i would think would indicate offset distributor gear. and it felt smooth when i adjusted the timing.:dunno: so i'm leaning towards a stock size being good to go. oh and when i pulled out the petronix to replace with the tbi distributor it had a centered wear pattern.
 
hmmm, maybe its when you use a standard height intake with spacers that you need the longer shaft ???
 
i checked out the summit clicky that 4x4high gave us and it's got me wondering, because it also shows valley pan spacers. i could've sworn that distributor had a centered wear pattern. i'm going to have to double check that now. the rest of the stuff still stands though. burb sounds fine.

intake spacers.jpg
 
i toyed w/idea of using the tq monster 366 bbc i have, but the weight of it makes me think of just using its crank&rods that are factory nitrated in a 454 block and some good heads for a 427 bbc, but most my projects i've built lately, have been gettin a 97-99 5.7vortec w/ a gmpp carb intake, about 400 hp for around $1500 total
 
I have "Knowledge" of this stuff no "Wisdom" (actually trying it to be sure)

so obviously its working for you so it can be done .

I'm betting the stock High Deck intake has the dist. boss machined .400 lower to use the standard distributor
 
I have a 366 in my 85 crew cab. Runs great with a old holley pro jection unit on it. The only reason I put the holley uniy on it was I could not get a fuel pump to work. Maybe it has something to do with the reverse rotation?
 
my apologies yellow k20 the pattern is slightly off center. i'll take pics tomorrow. but for now i'll use the dash method

top ------ bottom of distributor gear
top -- -- bottom centered wear
top --- - bottom wear pattern with standard 454 distributor.

no chipping flaking or knife edging. so i dunno safe enough?


blazin_blazer , some food for thought if you had a motor with forged crank, forged rods, hi nickel thick walled block with compression in the 8:1 range. what kind of power adder would you install?
 
no worries this is cool info I got the itch now to do something with my "boat anchors"

with thick walls and some head studs you could twin turbo that bitch and get some serious power!!
 
could some one post the specs??? I/E the bore,stroke, rod length, Pin height ,etc for these engines??
 
hmmmm, i assume you mean using the complete 366 engine, i would probally turbo it and maybe add a 100 shot of No2 at WOT. maybe, dual turbos....i have alot of diesel shops around, turbos wouldn't be that hard to find.....quit toying w/my emotions :)
 
heh heh heh now your feel ing me. yeah a couple t3's off some 4 cylinder thunder chicken's for cheap could be a lot of fun! :D:D:D i'll get those specs for ya.
 
alright the majority of my info has come from herehttp://www.mortec.com/
alot of other forums reference there info so i consider it a good source. hopefully i'm not just a "lemming";)
any who

366 bore 3.935, stroke 3.76 connecting rod for all bbc's 6.135
427 bore 4.25, stroke 3.76

for comparison sake
350 bore 4.00, stroke 3,48 connecting rod 5.7

couldn't find the pin height yellowk20. i assume that you meant the piston pin right?
 
yes Piston pin height, Thanks the gears are now turning........
 
any reason the 366 can't be punched out ??? maybe you could bore it out .315"
 
wow .315" is alot. I would have to guess that would be way to far to be safely used, if even possible.
 
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