FYI on timing. I'm not sure if the explanation of the connector location works for K5 though. Someone here surely knows.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
TBI fuel injector trouble?
- Thread starter jteck10
- Start date
The thumb gets you close, timing marks get you precise.
Assuming the timing cover and balancer match, and out ring on the balancer hasn't moved.
But this should not make a truck stop running and starting.
Leave the dist where it is. Put the cap in place, make sure is correctly index to the dist base.
See if number 1 tower lines up with rotor
Assuming the timing cover and balancer match, and out ring on the balancer hasn't moved.
But this should not make a truck stop running and starting.
Leave the dist where it is. Put the cap in place, make sure is correctly index to the dist base.
See if number 1 tower lines up with rotor
jteck10
1/2 ton status
@Wes Harden @BoondocK5
GOT HER RUNNING
got her up to running temp after setting the timing on 0
and then...
good news
- she starts and runs and timing is set right (see videos for timing mark before/after unplugging the brown switch to electronically control)
- oil pressure sensor adapter came in and worked fine
bad news
- the #3 plug is next to the coil, shouldn't the #1 plug be there?
- tried moving her out of the driveway, and she died again when i tried driving her - back to square one
do i move all of my plug wires over 1 space to get #1 close to the coil?
do i assume my distributor coil is bad?
do i assume my whole distributor is bad?
do i remove the cap and see where the rotor is now that she starts to use that as where #1 should go
GOT HER RUNNING
got her up to running temp after setting the timing on 0
and then...
good news
- she starts and runs and timing is set right (see videos for timing mark before/after unplugging the brown switch to electronically control)
- oil pressure sensor adapter came in and worked fine
bad news
- the #3 plug is next to the coil, shouldn't the #1 plug be there?
- tried moving her out of the driveway, and she died again when i tried driving her - back to square one
do i move all of my plug wires over 1 space to get #1 close to the coil?
do i assume my distributor coil is bad?
do i assume my whole distributor is bad?
do i remove the cap and see where the rotor is now that she starts to use that as where #1 should go
jteck10
1/2 ton status
just looked up how to replace the pickup coil - quite the production
when i get in there later and see if my rotor is pointing at #1 or not, i may just get a new distributor to be done with it if my rotor is pointed at #1
when i get in there later and see if my rotor is pointing at #1 or not, i may just get a new distributor to be done with it if my rotor is pointed at #1
When I first got Chloe(my K10) she still had points. She ran, not very good, but, she ran.
Very first thing I did? Got on the phone with summit racing, bought the $90 HEI distributor. Had make a few wiring adjustments to.the truck to get it wired up correctly. But, it fired up, first time. Let it warm up, timed it per the Alldata online. Never looked back...
HEI, is mostly plug and play.
You dont.need HEI. just get the $100 special distributor, for you engine, and be done with this thing.
Very first thing I did? Got on the phone with summit racing, bought the $90 HEI distributor. Had make a few wiring adjustments to.the truck to get it wired up correctly. But, it fired up, first time. Let it warm up, timed it per the Alldata online. Never looked back...
HEI, is mostly plug and play.
You dont.need HEI. just get the $100 special distributor, for you engine, and be done with this thing.
#1 can be any terminal on the distributor cap can be anywhere,like stated above, the only reason we mostly use "point the rotor at #1" is for commonality between engines, to avoid confusion.
I've been known to, when I drop a dizzy in 180° out, just yank all the wires off, and wire 180 out. Still runs, and times ok, just looks odd on the distributor cap.
I've been known to, when I drop a dizzy in 180° out, just yank all the wires off, and wire 180 out. Still runs, and times ok, just looks odd on the distributor cap.
I have seen #1 straight forward, since it timed there I think it is good to leave.
The stall I am thinking is electrical. not fuel or timing
The stall I am thinking is electrical. not fuel or timing
jteck10
1/2 ton status
@BoondocK5
i just went outside to try and take another peek, now that she starts, when i pull the cap, the rotor is aimed at #6, not #1 that is almost straight forward
this means its 180 around, correct?
i feel like a new distributor is the ticket at this point - yea?
Right after these pictures I put it all back together and started it up no problem
TDC line up 2x once for #1 and once for #6. This is why thumb on the #1 was important, to find compression stroke. if you turned the crank 1 more 360 the rotor will point at #1.
The crank goes 720° for every 360° of the cam shaft, and the distributor turns at camshaft speed.
The crank goes 720° for every 360° of the cam shaft, and the distributor turns at camshaft speed.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
so undo it again and crank another 360 to get to TDC again with the thumb over hole for compression test?
No need, I am just tiring to say in complicated way what your pic shows is expected and normal.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
got it, thanks! hopefully the new dizzy fixes the electrical issue that i (think) is coming from the coil inside
Like Wes said, you've got 180° out now. It's OK, for now. Like Wes said, again. Turn the engine over 1 more revolution, hit the timing mark, and you'll have it. Then, when you pull the dizzy out, you can set up with #1 in the correct spot.
Get yourself the $100 dollar summit racing distributor, drop it in, get her timed and you'll be set
Cheapest Summit that I *think* will work for EFI is $217. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850200/make/chevrolet
rockauto has a plethora of EFI distributors for under $100. The Delco one is ~$250 Not sure the link will work, but here goes: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...l+350cid+v8,1061514,ignition,distributor,7108
Sorry, everyone. I live in my own head, relying on 15-20 year old memories, back when semi-quality stuff could still be had for cheap.
I just wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything.
Even on that Summit distributor multiple people had pretty much out of the box failures of the modules. For double what the "cheap" chinese units run, one would expect and hope for better life than that.
Of course, can't always know what the installer did wrong either lol.
I always try to handle them as little as possible, rubber gloves, touching ground wires all the time.
Fawking electronics...
Fawking electronics...
jteck10
1/2 ton status
ended up getting a chinesium one at oreillys this morning for $140 bucks.
i wanted the MSD one but i figured this way i dont have to wait for shipping and can figure out if its the actual problem or not
i wanted the MSD one but i figured this way i dont have to wait for shipping and can figure out if its the actual problem or not
jteck10
1/2 ton status
@Wes Harden @BoondocK5
two steps forward and one step back...
i got the new distributor in just now and despite me marking TDC where it applied to the rotor and cap she now wont start
go figure
ive tried resetting it on TDC and trying to get #1 on the plug wires to match close to where the rotor is, but no luck
do i need to pull the dist and rotate and reinsert?
i noticed when i find TDC now, its not pointing to cylinder #1 - doesnt that have to be the case?
this has got to be the home stretch...
two steps forward and one step back...
i got the new distributor in just now and despite me marking TDC where it applied to the rotor and cap she now wont start
go figure
ive tried resetting it on TDC and trying to get #1 on the plug wires to match close to where the rotor is, but no luck
do i need to pull the dist and rotate and reinsert?
i noticed when i find TDC now, its not pointing to cylinder #1 - doesnt that have to be the case?
this has got to be the home stretch...
Yes it has to pointing to #1 tower on the cap.
Know that as you 1st engage the gear it rotate clockwise, and must engage the oil pump drive at same time. Bit of tongue stuck up nose with correct fingers crossed task.
1 tooth off in either direction is enough to make run poorly or not at all.
Try again, this is something many seasoned mechanics have to twice every now and then.
Know that as you 1st engage the gear it rotate clockwise, and must engage the oil pump drive at same time. Bit of tongue stuck up nose with correct fingers crossed task.
1 tooth off in either direction is enough to make run poorly or not at all.
Try again, this is something many seasoned mechanics have to twice every now and then.
