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TBI troubleshooting

Just got a call from the shop. They couldnt fix it and have no clue. Seller on ebay wants 250 plus shipping and would have to get the cartridge as well. Hoping it all works another 300 dumping in and praying. Decided I am just going to go to a carb for now. That will set me up for when I do a replacement motor with more power.
 
Weird update. Got it back and they did the fuel regulator & coolant sensor and shrugged their shoulders.

Started it up and no check engine light. Idle was a little high but drive great. Did 150-200 miles over a few days with no issues.

Today started it and it ran for 15 seconds then died. Didnt want to start, would turn key, hear it fire a little stumble, then die. Tried a few more times and got it running. Drove for a few minutes and throttle started surging like 15% gas the 30% gas and service light came on. Pulled over and turned it off to try and pull codes. Fired it back up and no light. Drive it a for another 30 min restarted a few times. No issues.

Its a crazy problem that is driving me crazy. Now I am like I just want to know why its broken. Increased my ebay bid on the mt2500 hoping i win to at least see what its doing.

I do have a tps and iac sensor I need to install. Figure might as well.
 
that intermittent sounds like a break in a wire somewhere
Or intermittent failing fuel pump relay. I'm haven't very similar symptoms in my 89 Suburban. When it is not starting, I'm not getting fuel and it runs on starting fluid. I've already done the fuel sending unit and filter. Cleaned the ground for the fuel pump at frame while I was in there, so next thing to check will be the pump relay.
 
When I had my 89 Silverado K5 Blazer, I was going to college at the time, and it started quitting on me at traffic lights, but ran great out on the highway. It turned out being the pickup module was bad that sits under the top of the dist shaft where the rotor sits. I carefully took the dist shaft apart and changed out the pickup module, and the problem never came back. Before that I had replaced spark plugs, wires, IAC, fuel filter, etc.
 
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New replacement dist are junk, not even sure AC Delco's are much better. My last HEI is a new AC delco and is 6ish years old and going strong. 25k+ miles
Yep, might as well do as I did. Since everything out there is junk right out of the box. Hit up Summit Racing about their $100 HEI distributor, complete with cap and rotor.
The one I bought worked great at least 2 years, until I pulled the motor due to begin the build.
 
When I had my 89 Silverado K5 Blazer, I was going to college at the time, and it started quitting on me at traffic lights, but ran great out on the highway. It turned out being the pickup module was bad that sits under the top of the dist shaft where the rotor sits. I carefully took the dist shaft apart and changed out the pickup module, and the problem never came back. Before that I had replaced spark plugs, wires, IAC, fuel filter, etc.
I did a complete distributor about a year ago
 

Moates has been around a long time. They are a good outfit. I've not messed with the TBI stuff in a long time, but pretty sure that unit should do OBD1 trucks. You can always email or call them, I would.

OBD1 (especially TBI with its extremely slow data speed) isn't going to tell you a ton, so I wouldn't pay top dollar to interface with the ECM. A high end tool isn't going to tell you anything more than a cheap one will.
 
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This is not a ob2 car. Its a paper clip and flashing lights you count. There are none. I wish it was OBD2
Key engine off. You should have a code 12 minium when blink code scaning.

Short A&B top right of aldl. (Bracket up)
 
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