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Tell me about Mini Starters?

Good to know. I had heard it does on the GM ls starters. Wasn't sure if the jegs would be the same.
I am old school, I have a copper armature starter, and no headers.
Wired like that for 3 years now. No cranking issues, with a good battery. Even had a crappy PO spliced multi ga crank signal wire till recently
Same with me.
All my squares got the upgrade, the starter seems to last longer too
 
Yes @6872xtc is right. (The Jegs starter is a Permanent Magner Gear Reduction starter.) If you put a jumper wire from the battery post to the start terminal, the starter will "run-on". This is caused by the perm. magnets. When the power is taken off of the battery cable, the starter is spinning down from high speed. Due to the magnets, the starter becomes a generator, creating it's own power. This power keeps the hold-in winding powered up on the solenoid. The starter will stay in the flywheel, for a couple of seconds (or more depending on how worn out the starter is), after the key is released back to the run position.
 
Yes @6872xtc is right. (The Jegs starter is a Permanent Magner Gear Reduction starter.) If you put a jumper wire from the battery post to the start terminal, the starter will "run-on". This is caused by the perm. magnets. When the power is taken off of the battery cable, the starter is spinning down from high speed. Due to the magnets, the starter becomes a generator, creating it's own power. This power keeps the hold-in winding powered up on the solenoid. The starter will stay in the flywheel, for a couple of seconds (or more depending on how worn out the starter is), after the key is released back to the run position.

should just wire that up so the energy created during the attempt to run on, dumps to a spark plug inside the passenger seat.

"what's that passenger? no, I didn't feel anything..."
 
I’m running that same jegs starter on my 400sbc but on the offset pattern and have had no issues and it seems to have a lot of power.
 
This is my preferred approach because the starter current goes through 1 set of contacts instead of 2. All you need is good wiring to the starter and then activate the solenoid without much voltage drop and even old starters usually crank well.

20210604_080131-jpg.379850
 
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Mine was like that when I bought it. Had all kinds of starter problems, drove truck daily from 03 to 11. 4 starters. Put truck back on the road begining 19, by June hot soak cranking issues had become common. Changed to the one cable to starter. Same cables, only moved, and added the 10g crank sig wire at starter solenoid. No more hot soak cranking issues since. Same starter since parked @20k miles.
 
That was my experience as well. I would warranty out a starter, then after some months it wouldn't crank right hot. Installed remote solenoid on PS fender and ran 10AWG from there to S terminal. Same reman starter has worked great for probably 15 years now. Still a wire directly from the battery to the starter solenoid, as I posted above.
 
Mine was like that when I bought it. Had all kinds of starter problems, drove truck daily from 03 to 11. 4 starters. Put truck back on the road begining 19, by June hot soak cranking issues had become common. Changed to the one cable to starter. Same cables, only moved, and added the 10g crank sig wire at starter solenoid. No more hot soak cranking issues since. Same starter since parked @20k miles.
I positioned mine straight down, plus custom made a heat shield. No more heat soak with my 454.
 
yeah mine is pretty much a straight shot down to starter, before and after shoots( not taken for this update) . Actually I lied I did need to add a cable when I rewired solenoid. here a before and after.

IMG_20190603_180605.jpg

IMG_20220421_155238.jpg
 
I see @KeyBlazer is replacing a staggered bolt pattern standard starter with a straight pattern mini starter. Are most SBC and BBC drilled for both patterns?

I really like the Denso starter @Larry turned me on to. A used 281-8002 would be a lot cheaper than a new aftermarket unit and is a more powerful machine, if space isn't tight.

6647932645_d1a1722710_c.jpg


The GMT400 starter is permanent magnet, gear reduction AC-Delco 336-1910 or GM 323485, which can be had remanufactured for about $100.

336-1910A_Alternate3__ra_p.jpg
 
I see @KeyBlazer is replacing a staggered bolt pattern standard starter with a straight pattern mini starter. Are most SBC and BBC drilled for both patterns?

I really like the Denso starter @Larry turned me on to. A used 281-8002 would be a lot cheaper than a new aftermarket unit and is a more powerful machine, if space isn't tight.

6647932645_d1a1722710_c.jpg


The GMT400 starter is permanent magnet, gear reduction AC-Delco 336-1910 or GM 323485, which can be had remanufactured for about $100.

View attachment 435163
I have a 454 with headers and my mini starter can rotate 360, so I have a ton more starting power, and I rotated it away from the headers, and no longer have the heat soak issue. Win, win, for me.
 
Unfortunately the diagram on the right won't work with a permanent magnet starter. It won't shut down.
Thou I have never tested this.
I do run my old school field coil starter wired as the right side diagram shows.
 
Unfortunately the diagram on the right won't work with a permanent magnet starter. It won't shut down.
Thou I have never tested this.
I do run my old school field coil starter wired as the right side diagram shows.
I do the right side style myself
 
What style starter did you use the diagram on the right side on, OEM or mini starter?
 
Oem for me. Field coil magnet
I'm using that system also but from MAD Enterprises, and love it, but I did want to use a mini starter utilizing the same MAD system.
Now I know I can't, got the starter already, all for nothin!
 
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