Don't forget to take off the speedometer cable!...been there,done that!..
..not easy finding a new one local any more...
..not easy finding a new one local any more...CK5
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Th350 removal
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
Im fairly confident the pump seal at the very least would need replacing. But I’m just going to get a new transmission and mess with this one later. Sell as is, rebuild and keep for a spare.
Yes I may just keep the Tcase/tranny together and drop the entire thing as one.
I have to do this by myself so i need to plan as well as possible for the easiest removal.
Don't forget to take off the speedometer cable!...been there,done that!..
I dont have a speedo... one thing going for me.
You need to put the Jack under the transmission as far back as you can to help with the balance and strap it or chain it to the Jack so it doesn't tip
Like this
^
Got it, thanks.
Today Im removing what I listed above off. Then I get to remove the tranny hump and ORD shifter I just installed... One step forward Two steps back...
Rear Drive shaft should be ready today, balanced and new Ujoints
I removed the front drive shaft from the Tcase, do I really need to remove it from the front Diff? I see a place on the frame I can zip tie it.
Oh, holy shiz were those Tcase flange bolts in there. Thankfully I could prop my back to the garage wall and use my legs on the wrench to get them loose. Dowsed in thread blaster still wasn't easy. Locked the hubs, get one, unlock amd rotate then lock... etc
Got it, thanks.
Today Im removing what I listed above off. Then I get to remove the tranny hump and ORD shifter I just installed... One step forward Two steps back...
Rear Drive shaft should be ready today, balanced and new Ujoints
I removed the front drive shaft from the Tcase, do I really need to remove it from the front Diff? I see a place on the frame I can zip tie it.
Oh, holy shiz were those Tcase flange bolts in there. Thankfully I could prop my back to the garage wall and use my legs on the wrench to get them loose. Dowsed in thread blaster still wasn't easy. Locked the hubs, get one, unlock amd rotate then lock... etc
T
tenderfoot
Guest
Yep, I lowered mine to furniture movers. Much easier to slide out from under the truck. Don't forget the dip stick too.
Something else I picked up from the guys on this site. Cut a couple pieces of all thread around 4 to 6" long for two of the bolt holes to line the trans back up for install.
Something else I picked up from the guys on this site. Cut a couple pieces of all thread around 4 to 6" long for two of the bolt holes to line the trans back up for install.
Long 3/8" bolts (about 6" long) with the heads cut off work better,threaded rod likes to snag on the transmission bell housing holes..
I have used both though..
It lets you poke the bolts thru the bell housing holes,then you can push against the transfer case with both feet to shove it towards the engine..but you must be careful to keep the transmission level with the engine or it'll want to bind up and it could crack the bell housing if you let it droop..
I have used both though..
It lets you poke the bolts thru the bell housing holes,then you can push against the transfer case with both feet to shove it towards the engine..but you must be careful to keep the transmission level with the engine or it'll want to bind up and it could crack the bell housing if you let it droop..
Lets assume its just the front pump gasket which is far cheaper than a new tranny and I replace that.
The only “issue” Ive experienced was when it would not go into D or R but adding more ATF seemed to remedy that.
Would you guys take a chance and just change the shaft and pump gaskets and re-install it?
I have no idea of this transmissions history. All I know is the leaks and the amazing amount of crud all over it.
The only “issue” Ive experienced was when it would not go into D or R but adding more ATF seemed to remedy that.
Would you guys take a chance and just change the shaft and pump gaskets and re-install it?
I have no idea of this transmissions history. All I know is the leaks and the amazing amount of crud all over it.
I've sealed the front pump on several and they ran great longer than I kept vehicle or the transmissions.
Make sure to mark the pump and trans case, so you can in stall in correctly. Also mark the pump halves if you replace the the front pump bushing(something that will add life to pump seal).
A little Vaseline on the pump oring don't force pump into case it should go in with little effort.
Make sure to mark the pump and trans case, so you can in stall in correctly. Also mark the pump halves if you replace the the front pump bushing(something that will add life to pump seal).
A little Vaseline on the pump oring don't force pump into case it should go in with little effort.
How do you mean mark Pump and Tcas for proper install? Im all ears for tips and tricks...
The gasket lines up to those holes and screws, yeah? Its an O ring and gasket on the pump, then the shaft seal thing, right?
Pump halves? Ill have to google image that.
I was watching this, among many others:
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This is all I need, correct?
https://www.classictransmissionsolu...-turbo-350-transmission-always-free-shipping/
https://www.classictransmissionsolu...-turbo-350-transmission-always-free-shipping/
Did you pull it out yet?
I wouldn't buy before finding the source of the leak
Use a grease pencil to index the pump to case, then the two pump halves. The pump halves are harder to line up w/o marks
No not yet. Still waiting on delivery of the jack. Just draining fluid, disconnecting stuff. I posted that link so I sont lose it and if it is leakkng where I think, this is the kit needed to remedy that.
Thinking that it may be worth it to attempt to clean and source the exact leak, repair and reinstall. Once I pull it I will be take pictures etc.
Worst case, I have to pull it all off again and replace the transmission. Best case, a $32 gasket fixes the issue of the leak.
From what I could see it appears to be that pump seal right on the bottom, above the pan. I cleaned the hell out of it with brake clean. And no ATF was leaking anywhere above on that point on the pump. It was directly located at the bottom of the pump, in a pool of ATF.
I may have given bad advice earlier... not bad but I would take the Transfer case and trans out together on a Square. I have been working on Duramaxs for the last 18 years and there is the torsion bar crossmember in the way of removing it all together.
Forgot that you got a nice wide open space to drop it all at once.
Good luck! Be careful by yourself. Chain or strap it down for sure!
Forgot that you got a nice wide open space to drop it all at once.
Good luck! Be careful by yourself. Chain or strap it down for sure!
Santa's gift arrived early.
One question from the ground to my oil pan is 25”, any ideas what I can use to support the engine when I remove tranny?
My other jack doesnt come close and I’d have to stack too much wood.
Im thinking the 12 ton jack stands that go up to 23 1/4 inches then a few 2x4 or wider, pieces across them to support the engine?
By the way, Im just replacing the transmission. I can mess with the one I pull later. Sell as a core, fix and keep for a spare. Use it to teach myself how to rebuild it.
One question from the ground to my oil pan is 25”, any ideas what I can use to support the engine when I remove tranny?
My other jack doesnt come close and I’d have to stack too much wood.
Im thinking the 12 ton jack stands that go up to 23 1/4 inches then a few 2x4 or wider, pieces across them to support the engine?
By the way, Im just replacing the transmission. I can mess with the one I pull later. Sell as a core, fix and keep for a spare. Use it to teach myself how to rebuild it.
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Maybe this can support the engine from dropping?
https://www.amazon.com/Tiger-Brand-Jack-Post-JS-36/dp/B001B19CMY
https://www.amazon.com/Tiger-Brand-Jack-Post-JS-36/dp/B001B19CMY
Floor or bottle jack, 2x4 cut to fit between jack and starter or driver side exhaust manifold cylinders 5-7(not headers). This is what used when I pulled the 700r4 for overhual
